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Resin fixing problems


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If the CA is old this is a common problem, looks ok sticks to flesh but totally useless as we use a fair quantity and being Scottish and only wanting to replace when we are totally out, I use one part with CA and the other sprayed with CA activator and that works for me.

We use Hafix not cheap but the best I have found over the years and works with most 3D material we have used.

http://www.hafixs.co.uk/products/profglue/index.html

 

 

Bob

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Just another thought if you store your CA in a cool place (we use our resin fridge)

 

also if you are mating two surfaces together and you sand to clean the surfaces "don't" clean the sanding waste off the part it works like the powder activator and cheaper !!

 

Bob

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Guest Peterpools

Phil

I've broken, snapped and cracked more resin then I care to admit. The guys are correct in that all the mold release agent needs to be removed and it's the easiest before starting. Down the road a bit and when underway, if a part snaps, breaks or cracks, resin is easy to repair.

Small cracks - clean the  area and make sure the crack is wide enough to allow extra thin CCA to flow in.

Breaks and snapped off parts -  clean the area and if needed remove any old CCA with CCA debonder. I then follow up with a Q-tip and a bit of Mr Color Leveling Thinner to clean the matting surfaces. If the parts fit reasonably well, I use regular Loctite CCA, glue and then hold 'ape together

If the break is really bad and the parts don't fit together well with a nice gap and I can't glue some sheet inside as a brace, then I'll go with slow setting CCA GEL in a few spots just to get the parts to hold together and give the GEL a shot of CCA Accelerator. . Once set, I'll start filling in the the gaps slowly first with more CCA GEL and Accelerator filing in the gap. Once the gap is filled in. I switch back to regular Loctite CCA and over fill the remain gaps. let dry over night and then it's sanding and scribing.

Peter

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