Spider cracks in Future..

[Shaka HI]

Curious why this is occurring on what looks like the national markings  (decal/right/top only) -- it's very slight I have to be inches away from it shining a direct light source just so....and I can't take the picture of it, it's that invisible.

 

I'm gonna just leave it alone, but curious why this would occur. Of course it could be the entire model and I can only see on that one spot, but I don't think so...

 

I like to place my model in direct sunlight for about 5 minutes to "cure/bake" the Future on and had no issue with this before. Future with about 20% Windex/ drop of flowaid.

 

I might shoot another layer of Future in just that area much later, but curious if this would improve it make it worst?

 

[Radub]

I had a similar problem when the Future/Klear was applied over Tamiya or Gunze paints. 

Radu 

[Shaka HI]

But I'm not having that issue over the Tamiya paints, but the decal....

[jenshb]

Maybe the decal wasn't completely cured/set?  Future appears to be fairly hard but also very brittle and inflexible.  If the underlay is moving or able to shrink and contract,  then the Future will crack.

 

Jens

[Shaka HI]

Possible, Jens. But it's over the decal that's been applied a day before the other decals, so I doubt it....

[Radub]

But I'm not having that issue over the Tamiya paints, but the decal....

But the paint under the decal is Tamiya, isn't it? As I said, that happened to me when I applied Klear over Tamiya paint. It happened to me a few times, the first time it happened to me it was back in the mid-nineties - I remember it was a 1/72 Dragon Ta 152 H that ended up with cracked markings. On other models it only cracked the decal, but in some instances it also cracked in other places. The Tamiya and Gunze paints seem to have a reaction to the Ammonia in Klear. I never use Klear over Tamiya or Gunze, I only use their own-brand clear coats with no issues. 

Radu 

[MikeMaben]

I don't know about Klear, but there's no ammonia in Future.

I'd gently rub the area with 91% alcohol to remove the cracked

surface then reshoot.

 

 

HTH

[Shaka HI]

But I thin with Windex (which has ammonia)....I'll try straight Future after light sanding! Let's see if it works.

[Radub]

OK, let me be the first to tell you that I am no chemist and I have no idea which one of the many ingredients (ammonia or whatever) in the Klear/Future does not agree with Tamiya or Gunze. Let us stay focused. The issue here is that the Future/Klear does not agree with Tamiya or Gunze. Try to mix some Future with Tamiya or Gunze and you will see that it gels into a sticky gloop. There is some sort of reaction that happens when the two meet. I try as much as possible to avoid using Future/Klear with Tamiya or Gunze. For Tamiya or Gunze I only use Tamiya or Gunze thinners and I only coat them with Tamiya or Gunze varnishes. 

 

In Telford 2015, a group of us modelers met in a pub in Ironbridge and after a few drinks we agreed to enter the 2016 competition, alongside all the other competitors, with "out of the box" models and see who wins what. So, in preparation for Telford 2016, I built a 1/72 Eduard MiG-15 "out of the box" and I used Tamiya paints on the seat, then the whole seat was coated with Gunze matt varnish to even it out. Then the seat was supposed to be adorned with the Eduard painted brass seat belts. I often use Klear as an adhesive for photo-etched parts. When I applied Klear to the Tamiya/Gunze-painted seat, the Klear started to attack and dissolve the Gunze matt varnish underneath. It turned into a gloop.

 

Radu 

[DeanKB]

I'm always surprised that people use Future.

 

People seem happy to pay for a model, the paints, decals, aftermarket cockpits, wheel wells, gun barrels, etc, then cover the lot in a floor polish.

 

Branded varnish is a lot more expensive than Future, but compared to the money invested in everything else, it's minimal.

[Shaka HI]

I use it because so far it has worked for me and there's very limited option for anything else here. I can't get things shipped to the Island without issue. And I'm avoiding lacquer-based clears as well. I gave Tamiya's Clear a few tries without the success most here seem to have.

 

And there you have it.

 

(I also tried Artists type clears with limited success I can source from art stores. There's basically 1 1/2 dedicated Hobby Shops here and they're as big as my garage.)

Edited November 27, 2016 by Shaka HI

[Bryan]

I don't have the answer exactly, but I am having the exact same problem currently on a model car that I clear coated with a 2K urethane.  Some of the larger decals have spider cracking visible under the clear coat.

 

I suspect the problem has nothing to do with the chemistry of the clear coat (urethane is supposed to be pretty safe over anything) but rather something to do with the decals.  Since in my case it is only occurring with the larger decals, I would wager it is related to applying the clear while there was still moisture under the decal.

 

Fortunately, at least in my case, the problem is subtle enough that it is only visible with high power reading glasses holding the model about 12" away.  Even then, it is subtle.  I am not going to try to fix it.

[Shaka HI]

Bryan, mine's barely visible and I only saw it while attempting to rig the model. Not losing sleep over it and it won't necessarily discourage me from using Future in the future, but I'll try the Tamiya clear again. i just can't seem to spray it as smooth as I can with Future.

 

Anyone have formula for Tamiya clear they care to share?

[Astro32]

I've used Future for years, over all brands of decals and dry transfers, and types & brands of paint, but mostly for cars. So far I've never had any cracking issues. I just finished a repaint of a Cars character diecast Miata car for a friend. Future was the final clear, going over nail polish that had a little automotive clear lacquer in it (to pop the pearlescent nature of the color I used). I cured it in an oven set to 125 deg. F. I spray Future with a little rubbing alcohol. I'd be wary of using anything with ammonia to thin it. I'd be concerned that the ammonia will stay in the product and not flash off like alcohol or water would, and possibly affect the polymer chains that form as it cures. It might be worthwhile to do a little experimenting with various paints and decals, over a variety of different shapes and surface areas to see what happens. I'm definitely concerned!

[Bill_S]

I have a little knowledge of chemistry. Just enough to make me dangerous.

 

For the life of me, I don't understand the addition of ammonia to future.

 

Future is acrylic, as is Tamiya. If ever I want to remove either, ammonia is the only thing I use. No matter how dry, ammonia will melt either like nobody's business.

 

As a general rule, I alternate paint types; I'll spray acrylic over enamel, or MM clears over acrylics.