Cees Broere Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 That looks very nice, The Hampden is very high on my wishlist (and as you noticed I had made an attempt on this same kit). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumpjack Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 Hi Alex Great work and an encouragement for me to face up to Tigger's Beaufort. By the way, which Sketchup have you used- the free one or the professional? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted May 26, 2017 Author Share Posted May 26, 2017 Hi Alex Great work and an encouragement for me to face up to Tigger's Beaufort. By the way, which Sketchup have you used- the free one or the professional? I'm using the free version with some free extensions, which is completely sufficient for me. Once I tried a free-trial of the pro-verion for about a month and after that, there was no function I missed in the free version. If I remember right, there are more import/export-possibilities to other file-formats in the pro-version. But since I only use sketchup, I don't need that feature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumpjack Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 Useful to know- I have had trouble with Sketchup for small parts; my free version at least does not like working at micro scale and I did wonder if the Pro offered advantages in this - or maybe some of your extensions solve the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted May 26, 2017 Author Share Posted May 26, 2017 That's true, Sketchup has it's problems when it comes to very small dimensions. I made the same experience. Now, being aware of this problem, I make the 3d-models 100-times or better 1000-times larger in Sketchup. Later, the model can be easily scaled down to 1 % or 0,1 % in the printing-software. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radders Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 That's looking great, I love the 3D printed parts too! Top work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brahman104 Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 (edited) Hi Alex, I'm impressed by the level of detail you've been able to get out of your printer. What brand is it? Craig Edited May 27, 2017 by brahman104 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted May 27, 2017 Author Share Posted May 27, 2017 It is the relatively new Ultimaker 3, which came out at the end of last year. Of course, on the pictures posted here, the printed parts were already a bit cleaned up. Especially the part with the cooling-flaps needs a lot of clean up. But the material I use (ABS or so called "smart ABS") can be sanded very well. From what I read, the predecessor, Ultimaker 2, was regarded as one of the best machines for private user. The Ultimaker 3 now has two printheads so you can print with two different materials. For example, the support-material for overhangs could be printed with another, water soluble material. I use this feature especially to print a first adhesion layer with some special material called high-T-Lay, which perfectly "sticks" to the print plate, and on which the actual part is then printed. Without this feature, I would go berserk as even with the heated print plate, hardly any normal printing material, especially ABS and HIPS, would stick on that plate when printing larger parts. The Ultimaker is maketed to be able to print with layers down to 0,02 mm, which sounds pretty impressive. And I must confess that this was one reason I choose this machine. Now I must say that I hardly use this feature. First, it takes endless time to print with this small layer hight. And not every attemp with this high ressolution succeded. Now, when I just want to have a fast rought part, I print with 0,2 mm. Normal parts are printed with 0,1 mm. And when I want to have fine parts, I go down to 0,05 mm. I'd say that lower ressolutions don't bring much better results, and for scale modelling you have to clean-up and sand the parts anyway. Cheers Alex brahman104 and sandokan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 wonderful it's so nice to see an esoteric subject like the Hampden in 1/32 and you have done a spectacular job on it ..just goes to show what can be done with John's kits bravo.. Peter sandokan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brahman104 Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 Thanks for the detailed response Alex. I've been using mine for a while now and mine doesn't go below 0.2mm, but I accept that as a limitation of the process so I don't use the method for complex or highly detailed parts. Very interesting to hear about yours though and if what you've done is anything to go by, I am very impressed! I'll be very keen to see what other parts you make using the process for your model. Do you think a propeller blade is possible? I know it wouldn't be on my machine...... Cheers, Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted June 2, 2017 Author Share Posted June 2, 2017 (edited) Hi Craig, I'm not sure about the propeller blade. Propably depends on the settings. I doupt that there would be a good result when printed upright, as the higher such a thin object gets during the print, the more it will swing/bend with the movement of the printhead which is always slightly touching the printed part (or better say the printing material is always touching when coming out of the printhead). Maybe with at least one sloping supporting wall along one blade-side that must be cut/sanded away later on. Or maybe when printed with the blade lying horizontally :hmmm:The first difficult task would be to create a rather complex object like a propeller blade in 3d... Hoch die Hände, Wochenende! Full of motivation to make some progress during the weekend, I put some color on the cowling parts. Unfortunately, in the Xtracolor dark earth paint tin, some black/dark oil or whatever accumulated over the actual paint since the last time I opened it. I tried to remove as much as possible of this dark gloop. After painting the cowling part, it showed that the color is a bit darker or more reddish than on the rest of the model. The contrast is more obvious in real than on the photo. And I have no other tin of this color. Now I have to decide wheather to live with it, or order new color and wait endless time (meaning some days) until it arrives Cheers Alex Edited August 12, 2017 by AlexM Victor K2, Shawn M, sandokan and 4 others 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brahman104 Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 Looks fantastic Alex! Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 Looks fantastic Alex! Craig Absolutely! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexM Posted June 5, 2017 Author Share Posted June 5, 2017 (edited) Thanks guys! After some flat clear on the dark earth, it turned out OK for me. The forward parts of the cowlings are just plugged on the silver cooling flap part without any glue. I think I'll leave it that way even after the engines get installed. Less superglue - less risk to mess up everything Next will be the landing gear. Let's see if I get a construction that is strong enough to hold the heavy model. Cheers Alex Edited August 12, 2017 by AlexM sandokan, Bill Cross, MikeMaben and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fightersweep Posted June 5, 2017 Share Posted June 5, 2017 Oh! That is just awesome. That is one fine looking Flying Suitcase and a lovely finish with the paint. You've got me eyeing up my Tigger Models Defiant now... Best regards;Steve Lee White 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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