preparing model for decals

[richdlc]

Hi guys

 

let's assume for a moment that I am a rank amateur when it comes to the decaling stage.  The truth is that I have little experience of doing it 'right' having only built three kits since getting back into the hobby (and one of those I hand painted the markings).

 

I've airbrushed humbrol enamels onto the model as that's what I've always used.  I'm using a Zotz decal sheet for the markings.  

 

So what's next? There are a bewildering number of options.  My dad says apply a coat of future... does this need to be over the whole model, or just the decal area?

 

What about sealing in the decals for weathering?  I'm not going to go nuts on the weathering - a light wash maybe, plus chipping and staining. This is a Skyraider in SEA camo, so heavy exhaust and oil stains, plus faded paint.  I also want a totally flat finish.  I have the option of Mr Hobby UV Cut (flat) or Testor's Dullcote.  Will either of these react with either varnish, Klear or any other varnish product?

 

I really should know this stuff by now!  But can you give me a system that I can use from now on?

 

Any help appreciated

[mark31]

You can use futere ore a varnish.

I do the model complete before placing the decals.

After the decals are in place i clear coat the model again before weathering

 

When u are going to fade the colour do it before the decals the same for shipping.

The decals are almost the last things i do.

 

after the decals in place i will use a gloss varnish after the weathering u can do a matt coat.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Mark

[modelingbob]

After I fully paint the model, I use Future as a gloss coat airbrushed on over the entire model. I let that dry fully (usually overnight), then decal away. After the decals dry overnight I wash the decals with a cloth dampened with water, and then apply a sealing coat of Future airbrushed on over the entire model. I then apply a wash and weathering, and then seal that with whatever final coat I want the model to be (usually Testors Dullcote). Many of my friends just apply Future to the area where the decal will go, place it down on the Future while still wet and they get great results.

Edited September 18, 2014 by modelingbob

[richdlc]

thanks guys

 

I guess if I am weathering and using washes, it makes more sense to apply Future to the entire model to seal in the enamel paint and make it resistant to washes, and then after the decals are applies, apply Future again to seal them in, then finish off with Dullcote or UV Cut

 

Just to reiterate - there are no adverse reactions between Future and UV Cut or Dullcote?

 

ps same question applies re: Future and using Micro Set and Micro Sol

Edited September 18, 2014 by richdlc

[Ryan]

I know this sounds strange, but I use a puddle of Elmer's glue under the decal.

 

The Elmer's for me seems to fill in any microscopic canyons that may be present after you apply a gloss coat.....if the gloss coat isn't smooth.

 

Even done it over flat paint with no silvering. Test it out on a scrap decal and wing.

 

The trick is to allow it to dry for a few mins the squeeze the glue out the edges of the decal "vacuum" sealing it to the surface. It's very forgiving and can be cleaned up with a soft brush after is dry. You only want enough glue under the decal to fill in the canyons...that's why you squeeze most of it out.

 

Ryan

[Out2gtcha]

ps same question applies re: Future and using Micro Set and Micro Sol

 

Just my personal experience, but I have had all sorts of funky reactions with Sol and Future when used as a gloss coat................even after letting the Future set for a few days. It left a weird water mark looking stain on it, and found that if you apply the Sol when the Future is not dry, it will cloud the Future and turn in milky.

 

JMHO, but I stopped using Future for my clears long ago and keep it around for dipping canopies. I found for me personally, MMs clears are about 200% more durable, resistant to not only the clay washes (like Florys that will sometimes also attack Future) but also resistant to the enamel washes as well.

Some have great luck with Future as a clear, but for me it pools way too easy, and is way too delicate for my tastes. I found it can be made to work, but its just too temperamental for me personally.

[Ryan]

MM Metalizer Clear is a great clear coat too!

 

Ryan

[Bill Cross]

I find Future is too unstable to use as a final coat and instead prefer an acrylic clear coat or MM Metalizer sealer.

 

And easy on thinning the acrylic clear, it will fog if you use too much water.

 

I want to emphasize that the Future must be DRY DRY DRY DRY. This is NOT the stage to cut corners or move with alacrity (tell Alacrity to move by herself).

[Zero77]

I have used Future a lot of times with success, that's a good product and very unexpensive. But it's very thin with sometimes a strange surface tension (it may tend to gather in drops on the model, it must depend of the undercoat, the temperature, or whatever else) and if you want a perfectly gloss area without any perception of the non-gloss undersurface, you have to spray several coats. It may be useless to get such a gloss coat, but i think it's the best guarantee to avoid silvering.

So now i use the alclad aqua gloss. It looks like Future, but with a more neutral smell (almost no smell at all, actually) and it's a bit thicker than future, though it is airbrush ready, too.

[richdlc]

guys, what about using Humbrol Gloss Clear as a base for decaling?

 

I seem to recall this is an acrylic based product - will it bugger up the enamel painted surface?

 

Again, same queries re: micro set, sol and a flat finishing product like Dullcote

 

thanks for the replies!

Edited September 18, 2014 by richdlc

[Bill Cross]

The thing to keep in mind is: what are you putting on the prepared surface?

 

Most commercial washes are made with mineral spirits (white spirits to you Europe guys & gals). If you use them over enamel paints like Humbrol or insufficiently-sealed enamels, you will definitely damage the underlying coat. I'm not familiar with Humbrol Gloss Clear and prefer to stick to Model Master acrylics which can take anything.

 

Micro sol & set are OK IMO, I prefer Mr. Mark Softer & Setter. They are industrial strength and will handle anything. But the Microscale products should work fine over Future.

[D Bellis]

Acrylic clears (Future, etc.) can be applied over enamels, but they tend to soak into flats without leaving a glossy finish suitable for decaling. Also, acrylic clears can and do react adversely to decal setting solutions (fogging, crazing, etc.).

 

Model Master's enamel and lacquer clears (including Metalizer Sealer) as mentioned before are excellent gloss coats that don't attack enamels, and are impervious to setting solutions.

 

However, I do use Future mixed 50/50 with MicroSol under decals to adhere them to the surface and prevent silvering, and then again after they're down & dry as a sealer. In between, lots of straight MicroSol is applied to soften the decal and get it to snuggle down into the details.

 

Beware of Zotz decals that have white on them or white as a background because I've found the white to be extremely ridged and difficult to get to lay down properly. I just used Zotz Checkertail markings on a Phantom Mustang last week, and it took over an hour per decal (and there were 6 decals in all) of constantly soaking them with MicroSol to get them to finally lay down. The white of the national insignias also refused to lay down, so the one attempted was removed and they were all replaced with AeroMaster stars & bars. Using really hot water helps, but isn't a cure. I had the same experience with the Zotz VNAF MiG-21 decals, too.

 

HTH,

D

[dennismcc]

To save messing about I use Xtracolor paints which dry to a nice shiny decal ready finish, when I have to use Humbrol paints I polish the paint with a nail buffer and micro mesh until I have a smooth gloss finish.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[Hardcore]

Polishing the surface a little do help getting a gloss coat of future.

[Guest Peterpools]

Rich

I've been using Future for the  gloss base  and I'm able to apply it to a super smooth, glossy coat. I decal on top of the Future with no problems at all using either the Micro System or the Mr Softer and Set system. I normally let everything dry over night and then gloss on top again. I'll let the Future again dry at least over night and then finish up with Dullcote it I want a flat finish and no problems at all.

Peter