sandbagger

Thanks, This is the second Macchi M.5 I've built. Macchi M.5 If you go to my web site (click my signature link below) then go to the 'Logs' page, you can download the fully detailed build logs for my models. You might find some interesting stuff in them, Mike

Hi Paul, I did sign up to join that chat on 1264, but sadly couldn't make it on the day. This second build of the Bristol Scout is in fact not for me. I'm building it for Theo Willford, who is the co-owner and builder of Scout 1264. That's why the details reflect the aircraft as it is today, not as it was in WW1, Mike

Hi all, I previously built the Copper State Models 1:32nd scale Bristol Scout C, serial No.1260 of No.5 Wing (RNAS), operating from Dover as part of Home Defence in 1916. I'm now building the same model, but Scout serial No.1264, as it is now, flown by owner/builder David Bremner. This model is of aircraft as flown by David's grandfather, Sub. Lt. Francis Holden ‘Bunnie’ Bremner of No.2 Wing (RNAS), operating from the Greek island of Thasos, off the coast of Bulgaria, during 1916. This aircraft can be built from the kit, but only as it was during WW1. However, David's present reproduction aircraft has differences, primarily in the cockpit. These differences require the following modifications to the cockpit: Remove the opening panel in the cockpit rear cross member Remove the control lever from the upper right longeron Fit the Pulsometer to cockpit right side frame and add associated pipe Replace Tachometer drive with lead wire Fit curved quarter panels at the front and rear of the cockpits upper longerons Create engine controls (with control rods) at the cockpit left side frame, lower left of pilots seat Replace pilots seat with better quality 3D printed seat (Gaspatch) Remove the pre-molded clock from top, left side of the instrument panel Add representation of the clock above magneto switch at lower left of the instrument panel Remove compass and its housing from between the pilots foot boards Add blip switch cable to rear of control column and under pilots foot boards Add all visible cockpit bracing wires and control cables (rudder, ailerons and elevators) Add modern four point safety harness in addition Fit kit supplied lap straps behind the pilots seat Add ‘Bunnie’s’ flying certificate to the map holder. Also the engine is the Le Rhone 9J (supplied in the kit (pre-orders only). The engine was built as supplied, apart from replacing the valve push rods with Nickel-Silver tube and adding spark plug lead using Modelkasten 0.6 (0.13mm) line, Mike

Hi Ray, Please do - thank you, Mike

Hi Kev, Honored - thanks, Mike

Hi all, The Halberstadt D.II (built by Hannover), Serial No:810/16 Vzfw. Erich Schutlz, the Royal Jagdstaffel 25, operating from Kanatrlarci, Macedonia in early 1917. As usual a detailed build log in PDF format can be viewed or downloaded from the 'Logs' page on my web site. https://mikesww1aircraftmodels.com/ The forum build thread is here: Build thread Mike

Hi all, The finished model is now up in the 'Ready for Inspection' page. Thanks for your support and comments throughout this build, Mike

Hi all, The Macchi M.5, Serial No.7242 as flown by Tenente di Vascello Federico Carlo Martinengo, Officer Commanding No.260a Squadriglia, operating from Saint Andrea Seaplane Station near Venice during 1918. As usual a detailed build log in PDF format can be viewed or downloaded from the 'Logs' page on my web site. Web site The forum build thread is here: Build thread Mike

Hi all, The finished model is now up in the 'Ready for Inspection' page. Thanks for your support and comments through this build, Mike

Hi all The final part of the Macchi M.5 is now fitted. This is a real wood laminated propeller with metal erosion tips. It was made by Alexey Belov at 'Proper Plane', based in Ukraine. I'll post completed model shots soon, Mike

Hi all, The propeller is finished. The kit propeller was replaced with a 'Niendorf' wood laminated version from 'Proper Plane. The company logo decals are from a spare sheet from a Wingnut Wings kit. I've added the propeller back plate cut from 0.3mm thick plastic card, as it is not supplied in the kit, Mike

Hi all, This the mechanic figure from the ‘Kellerkind’ German mechanic (54101) set. Painted with 'Tamiya', 'AK Interactive' and Citadel paints. Weathered with 'Flory Models' clay wash (Dark Dirt) and 'Tamiya' Weathering Master (Set D -Oil Stain) and (Set A - Mud). Mike

Hi all, This the pilot figure from 'Aviattic. I replaced the head from my 'spares', as the original seemed too small. Painted with 'Tamiya', 'AK Interactive' and Citadel paints. Weathered with 'Flory Models' clay wash (Dark Dirt) and 'Tamiya' Weathering Master (Set D -Oil Stain) and (Set A - Mud). Mike

Hi all The rigging is complete Structural rigging with 0.12mm diameter mono-filament, 0.5mm diameter tube and 'Gaspatch' 1:48th scale metal turnbuckles and Anchor Points Flight controls rigging with 0.08mm diameter mono-filament, 0.4mm diameter tube and 'Gaspatch' 1:48th scale metal Type C turnbuckles and Anchor Points Apart from the propeller the model is finished Now its the figures and display case Mike

Hi all A word of caution for anyone thinking of building this model The upper wing has to be mounted onto a total of 12 struts (8 interplane struts and four fuselage cabane struts) As already stated, the struts are all 3D printed and therefore weak To try fitting the upper wing onto 12 struts and at the same time keep everything aligned is difficult Therefore I chose to fit the upper wing onto the 8 interplane struts only, then fit the cabane struts after the upper wing was fitted Caution: When drilling the locating holes in the upper and lower wings for the interplane struts, it's important to make sure the tilt forward angle of the struts is correct If not, the upper wing will be in the wrong position for the fuselage cabane struts to locate correctly in their upper wing and fuselage recesses After I had fitted the upper wing I found that the tilt forward angle of the interplane struts was not enough and therefore the upper wing was positioned too far rearwards This meant that the kit supplied cabane struts could not be fitted correctly in addition to the 2 coolant pipes from the engine to the radiator in the upper wing To correct the angle of the struts was not an option as this would have meant removing the upper wing and definitely breaking the struts in the process Therefore, I made and fitted replacement cabane struts, created from formed Brass tube Anyone making this model should make sure the holes for locating the interplane struts are drilled at the correct angle to allow the upper wing to be positioned (when fitted) correctly to align the fuselage cabane struts in their upper wing and fuselage recesses A fuel pipe, not represented in the kit, needs to be added to the rear of the left cabane strut. PS: The brown overspray on the engine exhaust pipe has been sorted. Mike