ChuckT Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 (edited) Hello out there. I'm wanting to prime some items with MRP's fine surface primer and being that I haven't used it before, I'm not sure what air pressure to airbrush it at. Does anyone have any input on this? Any other things I need to be aware of when using this primer? Thanks in advance, Chuck. Edited January 15, 2018 by ChuckT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 (edited) Chuck, One suggestion would be to try it out on a spare model or something. I keep an old1/48 Mustang around just for this kind of stuff. besides, depending on your airbrush and needle, you may need to do a bit of experimenting. Just a suggestion and good luck with the MRP. I hear GREAT things about it! Chris Edited January 14, 2018 by CANicoll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Chuck I used MRP's Fine surface primer and shoot it exactly as I do MRP paints: straight out of the bottle, with a few drops of retarder added: @12-15psi with and Iwata HP-Cs Eclipse, .35 tip. I keep the primer thinner and build up the coasts. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckT Posted January 15, 2018 Author Share Posted January 15, 2018 Perfect! That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Have you used Tamiya's fine surface primer and if so, how does it compare? Thanks, Chuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 (edited) Chuck A few years back I used to use Tamiya Primer but was never a fan as I hard a very hard time shooting it super smooth. I am able to shoot both MRP and Mig primer consistently with a very smooth surface when dry (maybe 15 minutes or less) that doesn't require any polishing before moving onto the next painting stage. Peter Edited January 15, 2018 by Peterpools Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckT Posted January 15, 2018 Author Share Posted January 15, 2018 I'll shoot some tomorrow and get back to you. Thanks again for the info, Chuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Chuck I used MRP's Fine surface primer and shoot it exactly as I do MRP paints: straight out of the bottle, with a few drops of retarder added: @12-15psi with and Iwata HP-Cs Eclipse, .35 tip. I keep the primer thinner and build up the coasts. Peter What are the advantages of using the retarder Peter? One of many things that I like about MRP paints is how quickly they are touch dry, but never at the expense of achieving that super-smooth finish! Max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Hi Max I've found the retarder (Mr Retarder Mild Gunze 105) ) helps keeps the MRP Primer and paint, as well as Mr Color Paints a bit "wetter" and they seem to flow onto the plastic soother and then still dry very quickly. One of the issues over the years with lacquer based paints is they tend at times to dry too fast, which prevents them from laying down very smoothly. I only use a few drops of retarder to the mix and have found that it helps the paint level better and the finished surface is very smooth. I even use MRP and Mr Color Gloss Black as my base (primer) for all my NMF work and with the retarder the finish is so smooth, Alclad and AK Metallics work beautifully. Lacquers do dry at times too quickly and the retarder is one key in achieving super smooth finishes without the need for polishing. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozart Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Thanks for your excellent explanation Peter, much appreciated. Max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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