Jump to content

HPH Fw-189 A-1


Jan_G

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
well, after I have finished my Ho 229 I restarted Uhu build

I spent several evenings with sandin and filling and almost lost any motivation to finish it.

but everything has changed after I have started to paint it  :)

and now I'm sure that I will finish it  :punk:

It's a great kit of great plane

 

basic paint job done with subtle shading and ready for gloss coats. Everything painted with Mr.Paint stuff

 

i-b3B44qg.jpg

 

i-r2f5gm4.jpg

 

i-QDPrscg.jpg

 

i-v97G8Vf.jpg

 

i-BDrxgGC.jpg

 

i-5x2QBMM.jpg

 

Didn't play a lot with engines because it will be almost invisible,so I added just some wires

 

i-GcXjjFv.jpg

 

Sorry for overexposed pictures, I'm still trying to set up my lights for shooting

 

thanks for looking

jan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys for all your comments! HPH kits are a little challenging but rewarding as well. 

I made a commitment that I can not even think of the upcoming A-20 and DC-3 until I have finished at least two more HPH models....with floats  :innocent:

jan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks terrific, Jan! If you can, shoot in RAW, as you'll have much more control over exposure and white balance after the photo is taken, making it far easier to fix any problems you find.

Kev

 

Thanks Kev for the advice, but for some time I'm shooting all photos in RAW. I'm using basic Canon 100D camera with 18-55mm lens and tripod. Manual set up - auto white balance, ISO 100, aperture F22 and playing only with shutter speed. Using gloss flipchart paper as a background.

 

I think the problem will be in the lighting of the scene. Currently using 2 cheap chinese 135W lamps for product photography bought on ebay but without softboxes.

It may be more appropriate to use stronger lights or 3rd light above with softbox. Well I have to play with it.
 
And any advice would help
jan 
Edited by Jan_G
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

This was my first attempt with wet transfers. Several lessons learned.

If you are using Mr. Softer NEO and Mr. Setter NEO, don't follow HGW instruction to use softer. Setter is the right product for it. 

Huge advantage is that even if you will tear off part of the transfer when removing transparent film after it has completly dried, you have another chance with warm watter and setter. I did dashed lines on 2 attempts  :)

 

i-6QQm7Vx.jpg

 

General I'm satified and I think that this is the best decal solution for me. Now I need to fix all issues   :)  (almost all crosses have some missing parts)

Another thing is that hakenkreuz and fuselage markings look to my eyes way too big, but i'm not expert and don't have any photo of this particular airframe

 

i-jzkJGJp.jpg

 

i-t4dfck5.jpg

 

i-PGJ6Nq9.jpg

 

thanks for looking

jan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...