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"JURASSIC PLASTIC ROCKS ........BYE GEORGE


marauderdriver

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The early mid wing george does have a certain elegance that the later low wing does not.....think beauty vs. Brawn

Not being familiar with Japanese WWII Fighters except by CODE NAMES I never LOOKED to appreciate the overall lines.

Building these have opened a whole new world for me. I know some of the history of the Japanese invasion into China

years before Pearl Harbor, but it was ZERO's, Val's, Kate's ingrained. Plus my dad flew in the ETO and I knew no one from

the Pacific.    Anyway  Beauty is a good word here!..jack  :wub: 

 

Well done my friend !! She has beautiful lines.....Harv :popcorn:

Thank You Harv,  This was a little more of a PITA than I expected, but now the foundation is down and the FUN begins.  With the raised

rivets and lines I'll probably start with a THINNNN  Tamiya Japanese Navy Green on top and gray on bottom.  We will see from there.  :hmmm:

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Thank You Mark,

 

       A couple of green washes on top and gray on the bottom to give that "Removed Paint" look.

  Used Tamiya with about 12x water and a drop of Dawn and polished it out with a cloth for the shine

   Now routing the exhaust thru the bulkhead to the engine and getting it mounted is my next step0ZdD7Ik.jpgiq3sx0R.jpgaHuaJzA.jpgIkxjyQd.jpgND6jWTl.jpgETJNMFJ.jpgbJvJlcL.jpgi0Rc8B5.jpgGavP0ot.jpgN88v0Yl.jpgFflFKAj.jpgOQQ097d.jpg

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Excellent work, Jack. I think you've managed to convince me to leave the raised surface detail alone when I build mine. I think it looks really convincing!

 

Kev

 

Thank You Kev,  You'll see how delicate the raised lines and rivets really are when you look close.  I think the Rosie the Riveter tool works better for raised rivets. no sanding and re-riveting to make them match the recessed. A couple of passes and you have raised rivets that closely match the ones lost in sanding. Don't ask me about the recessed vs. raised debate because they are both wrong, just take a different technique :coolio:  .

'Removed Paint look.'

I like that creative approach.  Maybe the flying surfaces should remain grey?  Just a thought.  Good show.

 

Sincerely,

Mark

 

Thank You Mark, I get a good Brain fart on occasion,  I was planning to flat coat all except the rudder and keep the rest of the plane in s shiny

  state.  I'm starting to look closer to using the kit Decals :whistle:  :whistle: 

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Well I decided to try the kit decals to make it truly Out of the BOX.

I did the underwing Star & Bar first in this experiment

It only broke into 7 pieces,....it could have been worse.

I've now given each decal a coat of Future....Yes still on the sheet.

I tried this once before with a good success rate, but newer decals.

I will look to decide if a second coat may help along with keeping the decal

paper from curling up. Seems the cracking started when I tried to uncurl

the backing paper. If all else fails I need 2 P-51 Fuselage Star & Bar

if anyone has a couple to spare.

Never mind the little brown spot on the decal, I've since removed it and the lint.

Y2GRk3r.jpg

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Some Future or even just plain old Humbrol enamel gloss sprayed on should stop the decals from splitting. They're probably a bit dry, hence the cracks when you try to unroll them.

Thanks Brad, I painted a coat on the decals

 

lemme know on the star n bars, pretty sure I have some extras

Thanks Shawn

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UKfJwMX.jpgRE5V6MO.jpgkQmZ4Vr.jpg2d3zGB8.jpg2d3zGB8.jpgWanting to use the kit decals for a true OOB. Coated them with a brushed on Future coat and 2 for the Rudder Stripes.

The  Fuselage S&B separated a fraction. Think I can make a respectable repair. I feel the kit decals can enhance

​the build of a rarely done kit,  Rudders will be painted if necessary.....Carry On McDuff!cpplPlf.jpgZSLAE4Z.jpg

Edited by marauderdriver
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