Gazzas Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 That looks stunning! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted April 21, 2018 Author Share Posted April 21, 2018 Well, I have been quiet for a while on this build. Unfortunately, disaster struck. I was recuperating from knee surgery, but Monday I felt good enough to sit at my desk and work, unfortunately, the effects of Vicodin made me keep going when disaster struck and the clear gloss started orange peeling very bad. So my foggy mind kept telling me to put on another coat to smooth it out, but I was left with a surface that looked like an orange rind, I would say “orange peelâ€, but it was quite a lot worse than that common painting malady. Both wings were horrible in the bend, so bad I considered stripping it all. But I let it dry, and I tried sanding it with 3600 grit, whichmad it better, but my rivets are pretty much gone. I am going to try decaling it and putting on a coat of satin varnish, if that fails, I will go back and strip. This shows one of the good areas, half sanded. This area was not so bad, but still needs a sanding. Out2gtcha, LSP_Kevin and BradG 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted April 21, 2018 Author Share Posted April 21, 2018 (edited) I have used the Vallejo metal Varnish (gloss) on my mustang project and it went on perfectly, the difference here was that I used chipping medium under the paint. 1. I believe that the water in the varnish activated the chipping medium. 2. When I cleaned and wiped the model after chipping, I used paper towels, which probably left microscopic lint, which the varnish stuck to, creating the rough texture. 3. The valley in the gull wing let the chipping medium and the gloss to pool, which, made the problem worse. 4. Another factor was that humidity was high when I sprayed the mustang, and low when I painted the Corsair. I should have added retarder to it. 5. Wrong mix, unfortunately, I also forgot to thin it, I should have thinned the varnish 50%, like I had done in the past. Let this be a lesson to all of you, pain drugs and modeling don't mix. Now, I need to make a tough choice, do I sand and decal, strip the whole thing and do it all over again? Another option is I am considering just stripping the top half of the wings and re-painting just the topside. Really, the top of the right wing is the worst. I have to think about this. Edited April 21, 2018 by 1to1scale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 Damn, that's a shame! I hope you can get this sorted to your satisfaction. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 I made a decision, I tested stripping the engine cowl with alcohol, it took a little bit to break the varnish, but once through, it cleaned up easy. I then made a decision I have no return from. I'm going to have blue fingers for a week. LSP_Kevin, Uncarina, BloorwestSiR and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bstarr3 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Oh, wow. Good luck. I'm sure you'll be happy with the end result! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 (edited) I'm about 90% done, just one wing, cowl, and few tough spots to go. Unfortunately, it means about 10 hours wasted, and a set of very expensive masks destroyed (I could only find them in Australia, so I paid $28 plus $25 expedited shipping). I may rob the masks I bought for my Hellcat, it should have the right insignia in it. Luckily, the original set had the aircraft numbers both on the masks and the decal sheet. Edited April 22, 2018 by 1to1scale Out2gtcha, johncrow and BradG 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradG Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Oh man that's brutal viewing. Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Ouch! Good luck with the repaint. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 An unfortunate setback there. I've had to do the same thing a couple times myself. It ultimately ends up worth it as the results are better than trying to fix the mistake. Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Ouch! Man, that is a bit painful to even look at. Good luck with the repaint, hope it all goes to plan this time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiggTim Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 (edited) Oh my, so "cringy", as my 16 year old daughter would say. Painful to see. Edited April 22, 2018 by BiggTim Bstarr3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hansen Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 For what its worth, i really like the Gloss Sea Blue you came up with; its a very pretty shade, not being too dark. Sanding off the paint rather than stripping with alcohol will probably make it adhere to model better especially if its an acrylic or lacquer. The latest issue of Warbirds Digest has an excellent article on the restoration of Paul Allen's FG-1D, and the paints they discovered, matched, and used during the rebuild. One thing that i am noticing about later Corsairs is that the national insignia on the upper left wings seem to have moved inboard a bit, as compared to the earlier -1As. The fuselage insignias generally stay in the same place but there seems to be quite a bit of variability in the upper LH one, when you take to time to look at lots of photos. Just throwing that out there for reference. -d- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 These are some popular paint mixes for Tamiya paints, the one I used is in the middle, it looked the most right to me, with a slight sun fading, the one on the left would be appropriate for a highly faded GSB, on the right, just looked to blackish, without the Blue tint to it. I also tested several “stock†paints, but none looked very GSB. A lot of people like the Model Master, but I felt it looked more appropriate to Korean War. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bstarr3 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 (edited) I find it interesting that your GSB is clearly different to the insignia blue. Some people mix it up so dark that there's no distinction. Whether or not everybody would agree with it, I think it's more visually interesting Edited April 22, 2018 by Bstarr3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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