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F-4S, VMFA-112, Heater-Ferris Scheme - Final Pics Coming Through...


Marcel111

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Thx guys!

 

I thought I'd cover the TER's in a little more detail. I did a general makeover of the TERs, such as substituting lead wiring for the kit supplied wiring, hollowing out the back end and adding anti-sway fasteners with little feet. Very importantly for TERs hanging from Navy or Marine F-4's, I added a circular section such that some of the anti-sway "feet" actually have something to engage with, the below pics show what I am talking about:

 

20150124_155522_zpsohkpoty1.jpg

 

20150124_155334_zpsjurkdelm.jpg

 

Here's how my TERs turned out:

 

DSC_0039_zpsvkvguahh.jpg

 

DSC_0038_zpsgntojdcy.jpg

 

I also added a four digit number at the back of the TER, as I have seen on a number of Navy examples. Some of my TERs also feature VMFA-112 unit markings. Note the various shades of gray.

 

DSC_0037_zps6tjaii02.jpg

 

Cheers,

 

Marcel

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Wow - you are a frighteningly talented modeller..

 

I know this because I just thought I was looking at studio shots of real weaponry that you were using for reference..

 

unbelievable stuff, really.....

 

different class... quite a different class...

 

would love to know how you do it

 

Peter

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Thx guys!

 

"stellar work! what parts did you use for the TERs?" ... the TERs themselves are Tamiya. The wiring is lead wiring, those cylinders from which the wires come were cut from brass tube. The circular sections that were added for Navy/Marines sway brace engagement were cut from stock plastic tubing and cut flat on one side. Unit and serial decals were custom printed, the placards are from a very old Reheat 1/48 sheet that has served me very well over the years.

 

"Wow - you are a frighteningly talented modeller..

 

I know this because I just thought I was looking at studio shots of real weaponry that you were using for reference..

 

unbelievable stuff, really.....

 

different class... quite a different class...

 

would love to know how you do it

 

Peter"

 

Thx Peter! One of the key things to do is to maintain a smooth finish. So especially for rough paints, it's important to give a light sanding with wet & dry before and even after final coating. Chuck has covered this topic in some of his builds.

 

Incidentally, I ordered a bunch of your sheets, I came across them in Chuck's Eagle build. Wish I had been aware of those before, they will be very useful in future. Thx for the very fast service on those!

 

Cheers,

 

Marcel

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Thx Mark, thx Jim!

 

I don't have much of an update to show, but I did want to show off the Sierra Hotel intakes. They are just phenomenally nice, it can't be done better than this. Fit is perfect and the set is engineered to require only the absolute minimum amount of work from the modeler.

 

DSC_0111_zpspjlgfxl5.jpg

 

On my previous Phantom build I used the D-Mold set, which was generally nice but the intake inside is provided as a separate part, and it's really difficult getting a good outside to inside join without messing up all those little vents on the inside upper section of the intake.

 

Cheers,

 

Marcel

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Guest Peterpools

WOW

Some fantastic detail work and weathering. Looking forward to following with notebook in hand

Keep 'em coming

Peter

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