Kyle49 Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 I have been working with models for years but I still have trouble with canopy work. I would appreciate anyone giving their opinion on the best system for canopy work. For example: 1. soapy water to slide on masks in right place set to dry 2. next day paint 3. remove masks 4. cover with clear or is there another formula you would use, clear first, no soapy water, etc? And does anyone have a different formula for vacuform canopy? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, and thank you in advance for any suggestions. F`s are my favs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F`s are my favs Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 Canopies should be as glossier as possible, so for polishing - use the Tamiya`s compounds, the sequential ones, of course if there is a need for removal of the centerline. While for the masking - just don`t soak the masking tape in water or other solution, cause the adhesive layer could peel off and stick to the plastic after taking off the masking tape. The pre-cut masking sets just save more time, but otherwise it`s nothing special to DIY. First mask/paint the inner sides of the canopies, then the outer sides. Otherwise try not to touch the perfectly transparent canopy parts and even don`t wash them, cause this may cause some scratches. These are my hints. Getting rid of the long seamlines in the middle is the most difficult part, but the Tamiya compouts can do miracles. Check out some tutroials about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Texan Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 (edited) I've always just dipped mine in Future Floor Wax. Ususally the very first step I take in building a model. Dip them, cover them, and let them set till I'm ready to use them. If you scratch one, you can take a nice sable pait brush, and brush on Future. Makes the scratches disappear. For masking, I use Tamiya tape. Great stuff and leaves no residue. Scotch Magic Tape works well, and many use Micro Foil as masking. I've never dipped tape in soapy water. I do wash the plastic before building, to include the canopy, but never dipped tape in soapy water and apply to canopy. Edited April 25, 2017 by Big Texan CANicoll, Joel_W and F`s are my favs 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 I agree - Don't wash them, just dip in Future/Clear & place on a paper towel to dry overnight. Then preferably use Eduard canopy masks, or make your own from Tamiya tape. Spray interior colour first, then the outer colour. Leave paint to dry, then remove masks. Use a sharpened toothpick to remove any tiny bits that leaked through the masks. Then spray with future again, attach to model with canopy glue, then spray again with whatever clear you are using. Good luck! I agree with almost everything Dean says, except removal of the masks. I do that after the canopy is glued in place and final clear coat is applied. If you're putting a flat clear on, you definitely do not want that on the clear portions of glass. Occasionally, I find I have to strip the future and reapply. If so, a 5 or 10 second dip in household ammonia will remove all the dried future. Let it dry before re-future-ing. Big Texan, CANicoll and Joel_W 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 A couple of cool cats taught me to use McGuire's buffing compound (bought at a car parts store) and liquid automotive plastic polishing compound buffed with a micro fibre cloth for ultimate sheen. I've since given up the 'future dip'. As far as masking goes... it's one of those unenjoyable necessities of modelling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANicoll Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 Well, if there are 10 modelers offering advice how many different ways do we do the same thing? I do a lot of what the other guys do., I always dip in Future as it gives so much nicer a shine and any small scratches just disappear. I tend to attach my canopies towards the end of my builds, so within a few minutes of my last spray, color or clear coat, I'm pulling off the masks. If there is any overspray I find it easier to remove. If I wait till the paint has fully dried, I'll gently run a sharp #11 blade along the tape line just to make sure when I pull the tape up I pull any paint up with it. Its rare that it happens, but still. I use pre-cut masks (sometimes with a little liquid mask) or Tamiya Tape for the most part. I just can't get BMF to work right as a mask for some reason. I've used Scotch Tape as well and that has worked ok. Good luck! Chris Big Texan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Texan Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 Canopies have come a long way and are better. But, many jet model canopies have that damnable center raised line that has to be eliminated. Yes you can polish after sanding it out, but Future dip ain't a bad step to take. As for die cut masks, I think they are really neat, but over priced like a son of a gun. The only time I use them is for complicated frame canopies, like that of a TBD Devastator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn M Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 if I have a really tricky masking job on a canopy, I will spray a matt coat over the masked canopy to seal it prior to painting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 (edited) All this assumes Japanese paper masks such as Eduard's. I mount the canopy with Elmer's glue or similar so it can be removed in case of emergency. 1. As others have said, dip in acrylic floor polish such as Future first, then mount on model when dry. 2. soapy water to slide on masks in right place set to dry ^^THIS!!! Much easier than trying to finesse them perfectly in place on a dry canopy. 3. Paint edges of masks with clear to prevent color paint creeping under. 4. Paint interior cockpit color on outside so it will show thru on inside. 5. Paint model, including all clear coats, filters, etc. 6. Remove masks and enjoy one of the best moments in modeling. * * Or one of the worst. Edited April 29, 2017 by AdamR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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