Roden's Albatros D.III: Weathering, U/C, and some Rigging

[Mark_C]

This link may be helpful for learning how to paint faces:

 

http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/figures/mbface/mbface.htm

 

Also, I think your engine is great.  My only suggestion would be to add a flat coat to the exhaust.

[karimb]

Gaz i won't hijack the thread. I'd suggest you start with the eyes. Paint the whole eye black. Don't use pure white but rather a very pale pink and fill in the eye while leaving the outline. Draw the pupil then the iris both not centered in the middle of the as it would give the figure a strange look (with a small part of it under the eyelid if i explained right). I think 1/32 is too small for the pink line but it's good to mention. I think our scale is also too small to draw eyes properly more than a representation of them and honestly if i was you i wouldn't worry alot about those as long as you can manage to do the flesh highlights and shadows...!

 

Peter brother its great to have you back home! you're being too kind with your words! I am not master but merely a padawan learning from all of you guys!

 

Edit: Gaz I found a tutorial for the faces i followed step by step for the eyes. i redid it over and over on the figure until it sort of worked out, but the figure is much bigger in scale i think 1/12 or so. It is produced by a company called Specialops but i binned the box...

Either way keep up the fantastic work my friend!

Sorry again if the photos detract from your thread let me know i will remove them on the spot!!

 

Karim

 

 

and the bust i did:

 

 

 

[Gazzas]

Guys,

    Thank you for the thoughtful replies!

 

Karim, thank you for  photo of the bust.  You nailed it!  Honestly, I need some better magnification if I'm going to get more detailed than I have.  Everything I have is 3X.  The eyes are just dark dots emerging from the shadow provided by the bill of the flying helmet.  I have other models with figures, so eventually I hope to have some good ones.   I find the flying helmet quite restrictive to painting the face.

 

As a long time hay fever sufferer I can sympathize with you.  I live on nasal spray.  Hope you feel better soon.

 

Mark,

    Thank you for both your kind words and the link.  I'll check it out after work today.

 

Gaz

[Mark_C]

Gaz,

 

Do bear in mind that object size plays a role.  The bust above is about 1/6 scale, so you'd naturally expect to see a lot more detail than you would on a 1/35 face.  So what's appropriate for one may be simply impossible for the other. 

[karimb]

Gaz,

 

Do bear in mind that object size plays a role. The bust above is about 1/6 scale, so you'd naturally expect to see a lot more detail than you would on a 1/35 face. So what's appropriate for one may be simply impossible for the other.

Totally agree with Mark although I'm not sure the bust is 1/6 it might have been 1/9 more probably. Gaz i think as long as the flesh looks like flesh with the shadows and highlights plus the flight helmet your pilot has, the eyes will not be a dealbreaker!

 

Looking forward to your progress on the figure!

K

[Gazzas]

HI everyone,

   I'm going to leave the pilot alone for a while.  After buying the Eduard PE, I think I may just do the interior up right instead of hiding it with a pilot.  I think I'm gonna need a few devices, though...  Maybe I'll try to scratch the parts that I don't have.  Anyway...

 

Let's talk about wood.   No...not morning wood.  Plywood.

 

Back when I read the Smithsonian  book on restoring D.V Stropp, I remember that they didn't stain the wood but left it natural.  From pictures it seems the Germans had some Albies stained light and some stained dark.  I prefer the light stain, so tried to replicate it.

 

Here's my first attempts.  I didn't use a practice kit, I used the interior parts.  One principle I'm trying to get right is the very light and wide graining found on pine plywood.  For the base color I used a light flesh color I mixed up.  My 'graining' was done with oil paint in Burnt Umber.

 

I'd like your opinions.  I myself, feel it's too yellow.  I added some orange on the second layer to deaden the yellow somewhat.  I'm not sure what I would use to make it less yellow.  What other clear 'colors' are out there that I can stir into my clear yellow?

 

I've also noticed that the kit plastic is very flexible.  And having read other build logs of this kit, I decided to beef up the dorsal and ventral joints.  Apparently once it's time to attach the upper engine deck, I'll have to force the halves apart to get them to mate properly.

 

 

Thanks for looking,

 

Gaz

Edited January 13, 2018 by Gazzas

[themongoose]

I can't speak to methods but I can say it looks like birch plywood used for cabinets, very fine grained.

[1to1scale]

If you need darker than orange, I made a clear brown using clear green, red, and a touch of yellow. I used it for my Snipe for the wings, but would also work for a dark wood. I found that clear orange gave a nice warm wood tone, and that successive layers made it darker. I think the interior of my Snipe had at least 3 coats before I was happy with the tone.

 

https://i.imgur.com/FNB2dds.jpg

[Gazzas]

If you need darker than orange, I made a clear brown using clear green, red, and a touch of yellow. I used it for my Snipe for the wings, but would also work for a dark wood. I found that clear orange gave a nice warm wood tone, and that successive layers made it darker. I think the interior of my Snipe had at least 3 coats before I was happy with the tone.

 

https://i.imgur.com/FNB2dds.jpg

Your wood grain is certainly deep and rich and pleasing to look at!

[RLWP]

I can't speak to methods but I can say it looks like birch plywood used for cabinets, very fine grained.

It also looks new, and as most WWI aeroplanes had very short lives that would be correct. It works for me

 

Richard

[MikeMaben]

If you need darker than orange, I made a clear brown using clear green, red, and a touch of yellow. I used it for my Snipe for the wings, but would also work for a dark wood. I found that clear orange gave a nice warm wood tone, and that successive layers made it darker. I think the interior of my Snipe had at least 3 coats before I was happy with the tone.

 

https://i.imgur.com/FNB2dds.jpg

 

Very nice looking 

[karimb]

Gaz

superb update!

The woodgraining looks very nice and the color is spot on!!!

K

[Bobs Buckles]

Granted, not a DIII , but this is the tone of wood that IMHO looks great.

I don't think you're a million miles way

vB

 

[Gazzas]

Karim,

   Thank you!

 

Bob,

    You're right, that woodgrain looks awesome.  Thanks for sharing that photo.  I think I'm going to find a bigger edition and print it out for inspiration.  While I was painting the interior I felt really confined by either the lack of space or the lack of material.  I'm hoping that the exterior will allow my fingers more room to move and from grain.

 

Gaz

[Gazzas]

HI again, Everyone.

     I find myself doing each session of this model with trepidation.  I really only have much experience with 1/48 planes and 1/35 armor.  After basically going through my short modelling life ignoring or simplifying interior details I find myself wanting to measure up to the great work that a lot of you do. 

 

But that won't be happening anytime soon.  So here is my update.

 

I have read that many Albatros inner and outer metal parts were painted either a pale grey or a pale gray-green.  I went with the gray-green as I find it visually more appealing.  I read this years ago, so it may be supplier differences, or maybe some of you have newer information.

I used some gunmetal pigments on the top of the engine, the fuel filler cap, and the magazine latches to give them a little metal look.

 

My gray green may be a little dark, and not gray enough.  The Eduard seatbelts were really a struggle for me.

I think next time I may try the milliput technique as I couldn't get a realistic look to the nicely painted Eduard belts.

 

I spent a lot of effort on the seat.  Added detail to the cushion, and tried to replicate a leather look. 

I also got to try the more woodgrain on the flight stick handles and pump.  BTW...what are the two pumps for?

 

 

 

The plastic in this kit is surprisingly brittle.  I've already had a couple pieces that looked fine on the sprue fall apart as I sawed as delicately as I could.

 

Thanks for looking!

 

Gaz