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Tamiya P-51D Mustang Finished 9/26/13


Daywalker

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Hehehe... It certainly was a stunning piece of kit! There was also a Ferrari 458 Scuderia, a Ferrari F430 Scuderia, a Lamborghini Gallardo Superleggera, and a Lamborghini Murcielago parked right behind it.

 

I had actually booked some track time in this baby, but sadly the weather did NOT cooperate! It was monsoon weather all day. But, at least they let me sit in it!

 

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Bit of a tight squeeze eh Frank.....no you slide in like this ...see.....swooshhhhhh....

 

:rofl:

 

You can say that again! Had to be VERY careful sliding so as not to damage any fragile body parts! :wacko:

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Guest Peterpools

Frank

Envy doesn't even come close. Of course, at this stage of the game I couodn't manage to slip through the window and into the car!

Enjoy ...

:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

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Frank

Envy doesn't even come close. Of course, at this stage of the game I couldn't manage to slip through the window and into the car!

Enjoy ...

:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

..... :rofl: ...........I concur........Harv

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Nice cars Frank! Gotta love that Aston Martin! :clap2: Shame you didn't get the track time you wanted, I know you would have had a blast!

 

Indeed, she was absolutely stunning! I think it would look good on me, and I even like the color.

 

Frank

Envy doesn't even come close. Of course, at this stage of the game I couodn't manage to slip through the window and into the car!

Enjoy ...

:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

 

 

..... :rofl: ...........I concur........Harv

 

 

As long as they don't need to spread some oil or grease around the window to help you get into the car, you're still in good shape! :lol:

 

Nice selection of cars, indeed :)

 

It was a bit of a tight fit, but certainly worth it! Funny thing about those cars- VERY high tech in some areas (especially safety concerns) but still a lot of 1970's technology inside. They really are very cool, now I want one of these too!

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Hey Frank, great build my friend! That "dollar bill" technique is great for the seat belts. Questions, you mentioned the "hairspray technique" a couple times. Can you explain that to me please. Also, what brand of of paint did you use for the zinc chromate interior? I think it looks spot on. Nice seeing you in Dale Jr.'s 88, he's the man! Again, fantastic work, I'm book marking this one for my Tamiya P-51D build.

Chuck

Edited by otis252
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Hey Frank, great build my friend! That "dollar bill" technique is great for the seat belts. Questions, you mentioned the "hairspray technique" a couple times. Can you explain that to me please. Also, what brand of of paint did you use for the zinc chromate interior? I think it looks spot on. Nice seeing you in Dale Jr.'s 88, he's the man! Again, fantastic work, I'm book marking this one for my Tamiya P-51D build.

Chuck

 

Greetings Chuck, thanks for stopping by! Glad you liked the dollar bill technique- can't remember where I first heard of it but it has served me very well in the past. Best part is- find a very worn bill and the "feel" of it is just like a real seat belt. The hairspray technique is one used to replicate a heavily worn and chipped area. Basically, you paint the part first in it's base color (in this case, aluminum) and then seal it with a protective clear coat. Then, a couple good coats of hairspray are sprayed on. I have read of people using the aerosol can, but I use the hairspray found in the pump bottles as I can easily dump some into my airbrush paint cup and spray it that way. Best part is, it is already the consistency of water so it doesn't need to be thinned. Cleans up with water too. After the hairspray dries, spray your top colors (in this case, interior green) on. I use Tamiya paints as they seem to work best in this case. As soon as your top colors have dried (in this case, a couple of minutes) you can start chipping. Just brush a little water onto the surface, which will soak through the top colors and begin to dissolve the hairspray underneath. Use varying textures of brushes, toothpicks, scalpel, anything you want to gently remove the top colors. What you end up with is the top colors removed, showing the base colors underneath. Here's another explanation of how it works, along with some great advise and video too:

 

 

For the interior color, I used the Tamiya call-out from the kit- 2 parts XF-3 flat yellow and 1 part XF-5 flat green. Thank you for following along, it sure helps keep a guy motivated to know others are looking in. Means a lot to me!

 

A bit of progress today! I glued up and cleaned the rudder, as well as the tail parts. As soon as those were finished, I couldn't resist taping them on along with the spine insert to see that classic Mustang shape. I am in awe of how well that spine insert fits, it clicks into place perfectly, and is indiscernible as a separate piece. VERY impressive!

 

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As this one will have the nose closed up permanently, I was able to leave off some of the parts inside and only attach those necessary to hold the cowl on, the exhausts, as well as the trunking behind the vented panels on the sides of the nose.

 

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And, a check to see how the cowl panels fit. Very good, just a few little adjustments required for a perfect fit.

 

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Finally, a look to see how it is shaping up. Beginning to look like a Mustang now!

 

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Coooooool! Im in awe of this kit each time I see it being built..............Great job so far Frank. I think Ill be doing the same thing with mine, and leaving the engine panels permanently attached myself.

 

:popcorn:

 

Thanks Brian! When you build this kit, you will be in for a very rewarding experience. Tamiya really has a knack for knocking a subject out of the park- can't wait to get my hands on their Corsair in a couple of months! As happy as I am with the chipped paint in the cockpit, it pales in comparison with your work on that B-25- over the top my friend!

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  • 2 weeks later...

An update today!

 

I decided a week or so ago to have a go at filling the rivets and panel lines on the wings of this kit. I didn't realize what a job this would be! I tried multiple applications of Mr. Surfacer (the 500, 1000, and 1200) with the 100 working the best for me. The 500 had a tendency to "sit" on top of the rivets, then sand completely away leaving the rivet itself untouched. The 1000 seemed to be the best compromise between filling properly and coverage. I decided early on to only do the top wing panels to see how it went, and if the job was too much for me I could leave the bottom alone. I also experimented with filling the panel lines first with thin CA to fill up the majority of the gaps, then smooth out with the Surfacer.

 

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After hours of sanding and filling, I was not at all happy with the results. But, I opted to go on and mask off the areas which would not have been filled in real life and spray a coat of primer to see how it looked. Some rivets were smooth, most were not, and the CA glue left distinct ridges where it had been applied. All in all, it looked terrible! If I had only used the Surfacer, I could have simply gotten out the Leveling Thinner and cleaned up the wing halves. But since I had used CA on the panel lines, that would not work. So, in the end- I ruined the top wing halves!!! :frantic:

 

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Luckily, a call to Mr. Tamiya soon had a new "A" sprue on it's way to me, for the reasonable sum of $9 for the full sprue and $5 shipping. Pretty reasonable I think! The new parts arrived today so I can get back to work on it.

 

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While I was waiting for the new parts to arrive, I set about getting the main gear bay sorted out. In order for the inner clam shell doors to sit properly, I needed to make a spacer to fit underneath them to support them. I thought about cutting the "open" doors off of the supplied bulkhead, but decided that since you would not be able to see it later, then wasting this part would be UN-necessary. So, I took some sheet styrene and roughed out a shape to fill in, and to keep light from shining through between the bays.

 

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I also ran some wiring through them for a little additional interest, thanks again John for the superlative photos! The inner door part sits against the home made bulkhead, and will be glued on a bit later.

 

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