richdlc Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 amazing as usual. Be interested to see how you tackle the canopy airscale 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 Incredible work again, Peter! Really coming together! I, like Rich, look forward to how you do the canopy. airscale 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 evening folks Beautifully inspiring as ever Peter. Are you planning to simply crash mould the canopy or use male (or female) vac-forming? Torben Hi Torben - thanks for dropping in I will be vac forming the canopy as there is an underpull that makes it almost bubble like in cross section - the one that came from HpH misses that detail and is a different shape as its from a later FR47... ..thats the plan anyway Mind blowing !!! One day I'd like to try skinning a model in aluminium, but I know I can't do it like this, that's a gift, amazing job Peter. Go for it Squizzy it's not a gift at all, it just takes experience & practice - it also helps to work in the bigger scales (ahem).. so, it's been a few weeks and I am not sure I have too much to show for it, other than an enhanced level of frustration. Vacforming and working the transparencies is not something I look forward to as such care is needed, and there is afine (and very invisible) line between success and failure.. I started by making a mould (or plug?) for the main canopy and the very top of the windshield. I only need the top as the rest is made from flat sheets which I can keep from getting distorted by the vacforming process.. I have had trouble in the past where the mould has different things that make it up (wood, plastic, filler) and these react differently with the heated plastic, so this time I thought I would make a resin plug to keep it consistent... here it is before the compound is put in.. ..while I was waiting for the stuff to go off I tried pulling a copy from the master to see what happened.. I had also drilled holes in it to get the suction into the underpull area.. ..it turned out ok, but not good enough - there were a few minute bubble like flaws & distortions and also some sort of seam lines where the plastic card was used in the plug to dictate the shape of it.. you can also see here the resin mould - this has been a shocker - the moulding material had loads of bubbles so when I cast a copy it was filled with pinholes - I layered on old mr surfacer and spray primer but kept getting nicks & fingerprints in it while handling... it took a few days to realise my primer must be off so I stripped it and did it all again - I am still struggling to get a glass like finish and have been at it for a week with about 10 coats & tries so am getting a bit peeved with it ..to relieve the boredom, I started on the windshield - using plans & measurements from the model to start construction.. ..the flat panels were easy, but it took many crash moulded attempts to get the little rounded crown piece at the top to fit.. the one in place is white because it still has the protective film on it.. ..the black edges are done with a sharpie as it instantly removes any sense of thickness of the material.. ..and the assembled part - it is filthy & covered in fingerprints, but the most difficult part is using CA and not scarring the part with vapour leaving a white mark... ..the actual windshield is thicker so I made up a laminate part with the fixing detail that will be added to the inside of the main part along with interior framing.. ..and a sort of mock-up of how it is starting to look.. ..I don't doubt pulling a good canopy will likely send me over the edge... ..by the way, does anyone know if dipping the mould part in future for a nice glossy finish would work, or would it cause problems with the heated plastic? TTFN Peter Jim Barry, Starfighter, Rdrunner and 11 others 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironman1945 Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Peter Dipping the mould part in future worked to my satisfaction when I vac'd a canopy for my 1/32 Whirlwind scratchbuild some years back. I believe I dipped it 4 or 5 times (but only after coating numerous times with Mr Surfacer, and sanding with progressively finer grades of sandpaper); I also gave the finished vac canopy 2 or 3 coats. But results may vary especially since your dealing with a larger part; it may still show some imperfections. By the way, outstanding work to date! Cheers Dave/Ironman1945 airscale 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomprobert Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Give the canopy mould a good spraying of Halford's filler-primer. It'll dry nice and hard, fill any small blemishes, and can be polished to a high shine with micromesh and a bit of water. It may take a few coats and some sanding/polishing in between, but I reckon you'll get the result you're after... Tom airscale 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenshb Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 I think Micromesh will be your friend here for a truly polished appearance. Go all the way to 12000 grit with plenty of water, and your master should be as smooth as glass. Jens airscale 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClumsyDude Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Peter ... amazing as always mate. I'll chime in on finishing the canopy - micromesh plus tamiya compound plus Plexus plastic polish works a treat for me. Cheers Jim airscale 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Peter Always amazed by your ingenious fixes and 'Never Say Never' philosophy of always finding a way. At the start of the clear glass portion of the build, I never would have dreamed you would be going in this direction but my money is always on you Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkyKing Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 (edited) WARNING! WARNING! DO NOT REPEAT DO NOT USE GARDEN VARIETY CA ADHESIVE TO INSTALL YOUR CANOPIES AND WINDSHIELDS! Rather, use the kind specifically designed for transparencies. It's formulated not to fog your beautiful moldings. Radio control modelers use it. Several brands are available, including AP CA and Permabond. But having come this far and being the experienced modeler we all know you are, you probably know this already, so I'll return you to our regularly scheduled program. Edited June 7, 2017 by SkyKing airscale and Gazzas 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Paxton Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Fascinating metal work...and scratch building.....and detailing.....and painting.... Truly a work of art. Thanks for sharing! Dan airscale 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airscale Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 evening folks thanks for all the tips, and the feedback on using future on the canopy mould. I have been using good primers and micromesh (wet) up to 12000 grade, but under the light I can still see some scratches & imperfections - mind you, I haven't tried since I stripped it so I am sure when I get my focus back on it then it will be fine ..it's not just getting the mould right - once that is done I actually need to pull a good copy - I have just restocked on PETG so am all set when the time comes.. in the meantime this is what I am trying to reproduce - notice the framing layout and the 'ears' at the bottom of the frame that fair it into the fuselage.. ..I started by laying down the windshield frame first, then the rear strip where it meets the canopy, followed by the windshield vertical frames... all were done either with CA and an airbrush to keep the vapour at bay (and avoid misting), or with contact adhesive - either way, one screw up and it's over and I need to start again.. I will definately look into Permabond CA as if that is fortransparencies it would really help my nervous system ..the sheet part is the start of the 'ears' - I shaped it to the fuselage and could easily mark out the shapes to get the right profile and a good fit with the windshield.. ..the ears stop short at the front as this whole area is capped with a fairing that contains the de-icer spray bar (and that will come later, plus all the top framing needs adding.. ..and with the ears and side frames added.. ..and a dry fit on the airframe - once it is finished I will make it a nice snug fit before actually adding it much later when the wheel wells have been detailed and the radiators added.. thats it for now - back soon TTFN Peter Uilleann, LSP_Kevin, Shaka HI and 11 others 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brahman104 Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 (edited) Dayum Peter! I remember being absolutely astounded at the clarity you achieved with your sea fury canopy, so I know you'll be able to pull this off. As always the neatness of your metal work is top notch and massively inspirational. You mentioned using the airbrush to avoid fogging with the CA? how does that work? Do you keep low pressure air on the area so the vapours get blown away? How do you have enough hands to do this? How thick is the PETG you buy? It's really getting to the business end now, well done! Craig Edited June 7, 2017 by brahman104 airscale 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonH Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 Oh, that is just gorgeous work. airscale 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Clunkmeister Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 Words escape me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cees Broere Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 Fantastic as always. Although the way you have made the windscreen the fuel tank can only be accessible after the windscreen has been removed. That wasn't like the real thing where there is a small fairing in front of the windscreen thad can be removed (and during wartime has a piece of armour plate fitted too) and then the fuel tank cover can be taken off. Just an observation. airscale 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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