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Cross-kitting Revell Spitfires!


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#1 thierry laurent

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Posted 25 September 2017 - 12:24 PM

Hi guys,

If the Revell Spits ask for work, they are a very cheap and obvious choice for conversions.

The situation may even be better than one can think.

This may look overkill but I got the Mk.IX some weeks ago to get the pylons and bombs (not really more expensive than a resin-photoetched type solution). In any case, I knew that I would find a use for that kit. This reminded me of the release of a Mk.XII resin set for the Revell kit. I got the resin kit and realized soon the Mk.II lower wing was in fact a far better base. I found one for a very low price as finally the two Spits costed more or less 50 euros... However, the Mk. XII requires the internal armor windshield. The resin set includes a vacform windshield but I do not like it very much. After one hour in my books, the light appeared! I remembered that Alleycat PRXI set I got some years ago. I liked that set but not the idea to convert one of my Tamiya kits so the set finally landed in a PCM box. I finally found a way to build two rare variants without losing a kit and with less work! Here is the idea:
For the PRXI: use the Mk.IX kit, the Alleycat set with its resin not armored windshield and the Mk.II upper wings as they are easier to convert (no bulge to remove). The only complicated part will be the lower intake tailored for Tamiya parts. I should check if I cannot use a leftover part from my Japanese kits to save time.
For the Mk.XII, use the Mk.II kit, with the RB resin set, the Mk.IX windshield and the Mk.IX upper wings (correct gun configuration). I still need to find a source for codes and serials but this is not a terrible issue.

Another positive aspect is the fact that most problems of the Mk.II kit are not relevant for the Mk. XII!
The low cost of the solution gives me the opportunity to get better wheels, use the LG well Eduard set, some resin interior parts and RB radiator faces as the Revell radiators are too shallow and Eduard does not correct this.

I am happy as I got a way to get kits of rare variants I like for a very reasonable budget... It would have been even better if Revell had avoided some stupid errors but this just asks for a little bit of elbow grease... ;-)

Thierry
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#2 MikeC

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Posted 25 September 2017 - 12:37 PM

Hi guys,

...
For the PRXI: use the Mk.IX kit, the Alleycat set with its resin not armored windshield and the Mk.II upper wings as they are easier to convert (no bulge to remove). The only complicated part will be the lower intake tailored for Tamiya parts. ...

Exactly what I'm planning.  The plan includes using the inner centre section of the Mk IX wings (to make sure the symmetrical radiator is catered for), along with the Mk II outer lower wings and uppers.  This should leave enough bits over to make a Vc, with the added bonus that the Mk II oil cooler is nearer a Mk V component anyway.


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Michael
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“A creative artist works on his next composition because he was not satisfied with his previous one.” – Dmitri Shostakovich


#3 thierry laurent

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Posted 25 September 2017 - 03:47 PM

Mike,

Because of your remark, I had a closer look at the plans. I think I will indeed cut the outer sections of the lower wings to swap them. This will noticeably decrease the scribing work even if this means taking care of the seam.
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#4 imatt88

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Posted 25 September 2017 - 05:07 PM

Well, you guys just pointed out exactly why it's nice to have multiple releases of a certain aircraft.

Lots can be done, for sure

I'm not familiar with all the variants of the Spit, but if a WIP follows, I will watch in the hope of learning something.

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#5 mmaben

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Posted 25 September 2017 - 10:03 PM

This may look overkill but I got the Mk.IX some weeks ago to get the pylons and bombs (not really more expensive than a resin-photoetched type solution). In any case, I knew that I would find a use for that kit. This reminded me of the release of a Mk.XII resin set for the Revell kit. I got the resin kit and realized soon the Mk.II lower wing was in fact a far better base. I found one for a very low price as finally the two Spits costed more or less 50 euros... However, the Mk. XII requires the internal armor windshield. The resin set includes a vacform windshield but I do not like it very much. After one hour in my books, the light appeared! I remembered that Alleycat PRXI set I got some years ago. I liked that set but not the idea to convert one of my Tamiya kits so the set finally landed in a PCM box. I finally found a way to build two rare variants without losing a kit and with less work! Here is the idea:
For the PRXI: use the Mk.IX kit, the Alleycat set with its resin not armored windshield and the Mk.II upper wings as they are easier to convert (no bulge to remove). The only complicated part will be the lower intake tailored for Tamiya parts. I should check if I cannot use a leftover part from my Japanese kits to save time.
For the Mk.XII, use the Mk.II kit, with the RB resin set, the Mk.IX windshield and the Mk.IX upper wings (correct gun configuration). I still need to find a source for codes and serials but this is not a terrible issue.
Another positive aspect is the fact that most problems of the Mk.II kit are not relevant for the Mk. XII!
The low cost of the solution gives me the opportunity to get better wheels, use the LG well Eduard set, some resin interior parts and RB radiator faces as the Revell radiators are too shallow and Eduard does not correct this.
I am happy as I got a way to get kits of rare variants I like for a very reasonable budget... It would have been even better if Revell had avoided some stupid errors but this just asks for a little bit of elbow grease... ;-)

 

Uuh...say that again ... ???

 

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#6 thierry laurent

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 05:11 AM

Spitfire linguo is a kind of encrypted language ... :-)
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#7 MikeC

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Posted 26 September 2017 - 07:20 AM

Well, you guys just pointed out exactly why it's nice to have multiple releases of a certain aircraft.

Lots can be done, for sure

I'm not familiar with all the variants of the Spit, but if a WIP follows, I will watch in the hope of learning something.

That's the idea, but I'm finishing a 109 which is fighting back a little, then there's the 1:48 Meteor F8 on the bench as well, and next up will be a build for a magazine; so it may be a while before my PR XI/Vc combo hits the forum.


Michael
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“A creative artist works on his next composition because he was not satisfied with his previous one.” – Dmitri Shostakovich


#8 Tony T

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 10:41 AM


Several Qs:

The publicity pics of the Revell IXc show what appears to be an almost level mainplane.
What is the correct Spitfire IX dihedral angle?
I'm guessing whittling the upper wing root and judicious bending may cure it but need to know the correct angle.

And is there anything else "required" to fix an incorrect this or that in the IXc boxing? - the glaringly obvious to a Spitty aficionado, such as radiators etc., I am not concerned with rivet counting. I have the Mk.IIa with some resin bits, Barracuda I think, which fix things I would not have known about.

Lastly, can the Iconicair Griffon correction set for the ghastly Mk.22/24 kit be realistically and easily spliced onto a Revell IXc to create a Griffon high back Mk.XIV?

TIA

Tony
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#9 thierry laurent

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 12:36 PM

Hi Tony,

according to Monforton, the dihedral angle measured at the wing datum line is 6 degrees.

I should check the compatibility of the Iconicair conversion parts as I have them somewhere!

The kit is reasonably sound even if it has the same limitations linked to CAD use than the Mk.II but to me this is not that terrible.

I guess the main problem is the radiator internal parts that are again far too shallow. I think that Barracuda will probably release a set based on the Mk.II one. Otherwise, you may do what I did: get the RB screens intended for the Tamiya kit as they have the correct dimensions and modifying the slope of the wings under the radiator is not that difficult (just some cutting and plastic bending work).

Some dislike the rivets but they were quite visible on some planes whereas they were nearly invisible on others. So, this is mainly a matter of taste and artistic license. Fortunately, the worst area is not visible (lower side of tail stab parts)

Eduard released exhausts but the kit ones look OK. However, I really recommend replacing the wheels by resin wheels, the Brassin being my favourites, then the Barracuda ones. A Barracuda seat will noticeably improve the cockpit as well as HGW Sutton seat belts. The Barracuda cockpit detail parts made for the Tamiya pit will improve the look but they are not fully mandatory.

At least, with regard to photoetched parts, I would only recommend the small external set from Eduard if you want to have more detailed LG wells.

Hth

Thierry
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#10 thierry laurent

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 01:21 PM

There is another point I forgot: the ribs on the elevators should be noticeably sanded.  I saw beautifully made and painted Mk.II kits on which they were left as such and to me this is horrendous!!!

 

The rudder is already better than the Mk.II one but the rib edges may be soften a little bit as well.

 

T.



#11 ironman1945

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Posted 27 September 2017 - 04:03 PM

Funny that this has come up, I am currently cross - kitting the Revell Mk II a with the older combined Revell/Hasegawa Mk I/II. 

 

I personally like the Mk I/II fuselage more. I've modified and installed the Mk IIa cockpit into the MkI/II fuselage, and have been toying with the idea of grafting the Mk IIa wing onto the Mk I/II fuselage, but only because after re-scribing the MkI/II fuselage, I want to see if I can avoid riveting the MkI/II wings. Also using Barracuda's resin replacement parts.

 

I've enjoyed the process far more than I thought I would.

 

Dave/Ironman1945


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#12 Chek

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 06:26 AM

Further to Thierry's note on the dihedral angle above, don;t just bend the whole wing upwards as some have done.

 

The Spitfire had a flat inboard section, extending out from the fuselage to a line drawn forward from the rear overwing fairing/trailing edge junction.

Make a saw cut on that line, then bend the outer wing up. That'll give you the correct slightly cranked wing leading edge.

 

The change in angle is readily seen on the leading edges of camouflaged wings where the underside colour is not a continuous straight line, and it often helps to know what you;re looking at..

 

 

Several Qs:

The publicity pics of the Revell IXc show what appears to be an almost level mainplane.
What is the correct Spitfire IX dihedral angle?
I'm guessing whittling the upper wing root and judicious bending may cure it but need to know the correct angle.



Tony


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