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Tamiya F-15C Kicked Up A Notch- Dec 1/17: DONE!


chuck540z3

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Chuck,

   Every step of the build is so precisely thought out so that the next step isn't a major fit issue, which is something I just don't do consistently. The end result looks like one piece with perfect rivets and seam lines.  Your windscreen masking is exactly as you've described it and why. I've also noted how precisely you masked the cockpit with small pieces of tape cut the exact size, and then a sealing strip around the sides.  Your method which certainly takes much longer then mine of a few pieces roughly cut is so superior, that I'm going to switch so I no longer have to worry about paint finding it's way into the cockpit.

 

   Like Shaka Hi, I was wondering if you're going to take the summer off as you usually do. My guess is yes, as it's your usual summer time custom.

 

Joel

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This 1/32nd scale really helps me lose orientation about space and time...

Awesome awesome... Simply phenomenal model you are making!

 

Ps: That rear cockpit piece, with the hinges of the canopy and of the brake, really has a tricky fit. I cut the rearmost (vertical) support wall of this part almost flush to the surface of the fuselage, which offers easier sliding in in its place.

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Thanks Guys!

 

 

Chuck,

   Every step of the build is so precisely thought out so that the next step isn't a major fit issue, which is something I just don't do consistently. The end result looks like one piece with perfect rivets and seam lines.  Your windscreen masking is exactly as you've described it and why. I've also noted how precisely you masked the cockpit with small pieces of tape cut the exact size, and then a sealing strip around the sides.  Your method which certainly takes much longer then mine of a few pieces roughly cut is so superior, that I'm going to switch so I no longer have to worry about paint finding it's way into the cockpit.

 

   Like Shaka Hi, I was wondering if you're going to take the summer off as you usually do. My guess is yes, as it's your usual summer time custom.

 

Joel

 

 

Thank you sir!  The reason I spend so much time getting the masking nice and clean is to reduce user error.  We have all probably made a masking mistake in the past that allows paint to get in where we don't want it and the more chaotic the masking, the higher the chance of missing a small gap where paint can get in.  If the masking is uniform and predictable, there is a better chance of sealing everything tight, which is even more important around clear parts like the windscreen.

 

As for summer, you and Shaka Hi are right, but in this case the tasks in front of me are fairly minor and I will strive to finish this model long before the summer is over.  There is a model contest I like to attend in September, so that will be my longest time target.

 

 

 

This 1/32nd scale really helps me lose orientation about space and time...
Awesome awesome... Simply phenomenal model you are making!

Ps: That rear cockpit piece, with the hinges of the canopy and of the brake, really has a tricky fit. I cut the rearmost (vertical) support wall of this part almost flush to the surface of the fuselage, which offers easier sliding in in its place.

 

 

Hi MIlan.  Yes, that's why I put in my "NOTE!:  Assemble the upper fuselage and front fuselage at the same time.  You need to flex the front fuselage forward and down to get the top part to slide into place.  If you glue the front fuselage and let it dry, then try to add the top part later (like the instructions call for), you will likely have a lot of fit problems.  With the glue still wet, this movement is easy."

 

I can't believe Tamiya did not point this out, because if the glue has hardened with the front to rear fuselage join, you're in big trouble getting the top part to fit.  It appears you found another way.

 

Cheers,

Chuck
 

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Great to have her come together, and your execution is flawless as always.

 

Wow, so you intend finishing this by end of summer? I must be doing something wrong, with me the painting almost always ends up taking almost as long as the construction.

 

Cheers,

Marcel

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Hey Man! Thanks, but according to the first post of our respective WIP threads, we both started our beasts in Feb/16, so you are already well ahead of me! As I mentioned, I just LOVE your F-4S. What a cool and hardly ever done paint scheme, mostly I think, because few want to tackle the leading edge raised slats to make the "S" version, which you have done an awesome job of.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited by chuck540z3
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It really is coming together Chuck...Just have to say out loud that your scribing skills are second to none...takes a while to make a build look this good.

  Cheers Bill.

Hi Bill,

 

Thank you for your very kind comment. I really appreciate it, especially from one of my many modelling idols in this very talented forum.

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited by chuck540z3
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May 16/17

 

Thanks guys very much!

 

A brief update, but I think a very important one if you are going the extra mile to make this kit look as accurate as possible.  Tamiya has left a very big gap at the bottom of the intake ramp hinges to allow the rotation of the ramp downwards.  That's fine I guess if you want them to rotate, but if you don't, they look very crude.  The raised pin on the outside of the intakes is also wrong.

 

 

Intake%20bottom1.jpg

 

 

So let's take a look at a few pics of the real deal to see what it should look like:

 

 

Intake%20bottom3.jpg

 

Intake%20bottom4.jpg

 

No hole on the inside either.

 

Intake%20bottom5.jpg

 

 

So here's what I did.  In order to fill the gap, but allow re-scribing, I used my trusty CA glue solution yet again. 

 

 

Intake%20bottom6.jpg

 

 

The glue must be laid down in layers with CA glue accelerator, or it won't dry properly.  Re-scribing the hinge detail must occur almost immediately before the glue dries too hard.

 

 

Intake%20bottom7.jpg

 

 

The other side.  BEFORE….

 

 

Intake%20bottom7B.jpg

 

 

AFTER.  Note that I filled in the interior pin holes with styrene rod as well.

 

 

Intake%20bottom7C.jpg

 

 

The other side.  At 1/1 scale, the inside portion of the hinge where the glue is, should be slightly inside the forward portion of the ramp.  At 1/32, it should not really be noticeable- and good luck making it happen with hard CA glue without making a mess.  I did not re-scribe the same detail on the interior, because access is very limited and you will never see it later.

 

 

Intake%20bottom11.jpg

Edited by chuck540z3
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After a bit of paint to check for flaws, the hinges look much better now.

 

 

Intake%20bottom8.jpg

 

 

Intake%20bottom2.jpg

 

 

Intake%20bottom12.jpg

 

 

Again, not a big deal, but a difficult correction to make.  Scribing tiny circles in plastic is tough enough, but in CA glue, it was very tricky.  Thankfully if you screw up- and I did many times- you can re-fill the flaw and start again.  Try that in putty!

 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited by chuck540z3
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