Jump to content

Which AIMS conversion to start with?


dutik

Recommended Posts

Hello!

 

Planning ahead my next years modelling budget and dreaming of new projects. If I want to try an AIMS conversion for Revells Ju-88, which one would be a good point to start this kind of conversion sets? I am familiar with resin ond PE, but have some major trouble in regards of clear parts. To fit them proper as well as to keep the transparencies clean (from glue smear and fingerprints). Vacu canopies should add more problems due to "flimsiness", "multipart" and "lot of masking required".

 

Any suggestions to choose wisely to avoid the snags and to enjoy an AIMS coversion set?

 

Regards

- dutik

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not AIMS, but you could try L'Arsenal, making a D-2 or A-5. Their clear parts are injection-moulded, and they still have spares on sale.

 

http://www.larsenal.com/catalogue/index.php?id_page=30&id_marque=2

 

Alternatively, a C-2 Night Fighter using AIMS and/or Czech Master stuff

 

https://www.hannants.co.uk/search/index.php?product_category_id=&product_division_id=&manufacturer_id=&code=&product_type_id=&scale_id=953&keyword_search=Ju+88&setPerPage=25&currency_id=

 

It's a pity there isn't a replacement IM front canopy, without the gun "hole". There is rumour of Revell releasing a Ju 88 C-6 N and Z sometime within the next couple of years. Hope so.

 

Tony

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for reply!

 

But I am looking specifically for an AIMS conversion, to honor the work of Pastor John as well as to add something special to our modelling clubs Ju-88 collection (well, if it fits within my modelling skills)

 

Regards

- dutik

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Heinz beat me to the Mistel suggestion! :)

 

In looking over the inventory, it would seem that the S or T conversions have few, clear, vac parts, with the main clear part just being the nose glazing. Working with vac canopies does take a little practice, but the key is just to take your time in cutting them out and test fitting them. I sometimes tape them up while I'm getting them into shape so that I don't damage the visible portions while I'm working on them. Once they're to the point that they fit the way I like, I coat them in Future. If, by chance, I get a glue/paint smear on them, or scratch the surface, it's just a matter of dipping it in ammonia for a few seconds and swishing it around and the Future comes right off and I can start over, as the imperfections are usually only on the Future coating and not the plastic, itself.

 

I have the 188 in the stash and hope to be building it in the coming year. I also have plans for at least one, possibly two 388s. But, I've really been looking at those S and T conversions, as well. I don't think I've seen anybody do one yet and it would be a very cool thing to see in 1/32, as they're not often modeled, in any scale.

 

I've seen a lot of your work and you are certainly of above average skill, so I wouldn't be afraid to try any of John's conversions. You can do it!

 

John

Edited by mywifehatesmodels
Link to comment
Share on other sites

:blush:

 

Thank you for the advise regarding vac canopies. Sounds doable. Will consider this for my 2015 modelling budget. Revells Ju-88 are dirt cheap now here in Germany (31 Euro asked), so a S or T conversion becomes affordable B)

 

Regards

- dutik

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use CA glue, applied with a toothpick, pin, or needle, depending on the size/shape of the area I have to work with. If the canopy is coated in Future, it won't fog from the CA. Also, CA accelerator is of great help here. Depending on the size of the piece and what angles etc. you have to work around, it's sometimes necessary to do it in steps (for example, one side, then top, then other side, bottom, etc.). Just be sure that the accelerator is completely dried/wiped off of the area before proceeding to the next step, or when you apply the next stretch of CA, it will instantly harden before you get the part in it's place.  I know some people use white glue or specific canopy glues, but I've never had any real luck with them. None of them seem strong enough and they usually take forever and a day to dry properly. I much prefer to put the part in place, hit it with accelerator and be done with it, all in a few seconds. If the CA glue does ooze out a little, you can cut or sand it back, as well. It doesn't take much, though. Less is usually best.

 

John

Edited by mywifehatesmodels
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...