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F4U-1 birdcage Tamiya


pascal JMW

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good morning

 

Thank you has all !!!

 

Everybody can arrive has this result !

 

It is enough to think of the weathering from the beginning of the painting and not to paint and having begun the weathering ...

 

As I have say him earlier, it is necessary to work very fine layer and the good to dilute, I do not make pre- shade but me cleared up systematically my basic color directly in the airbrush and modify darker and even more clear as often as necessity ,and always more and more dilute, has low pressure 1 bar, what makes of long session of painting

 

the white color for the intrados first layer basic and then post shades on all the structures lines and line of rivet in white slightly tinged with the light gull grey ,then to dilute is 99 % of the pure white to flood the whole

Smokes of escapes his made with the panel brown liner tamiya and black and a veil of motor oil Ak ( has the airbrush less than 1 bar pressure) ,The diverse coulures produces interactive AK oil, fuel, the advantage to be already ready has the use

 

Dust simply, weathering tamiya set, and my watercolor pencils

 

 

 

Good day has all (saddened for my English :whistle: )

 

cheers Pascal

Edited by pascal JMW
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hello guys !

 

Planes in him even almost finished still about details as I would make all has the end ;; while waiting for ...propeller receipt a layer of aluminum and the end of blades in yellow

 

helice10.jpg

 

I make him a base of presentation simply a plate in slate which has the advantage to be not flat what imitates alone a ground at the moment just painted 

In  darkened sand  and cleared up in yellow desert, once dry some filters and dry brushing 

 

pale_h10.jpg

 

pale_h14.jpgpale_h16.jpgpale_h15.jpg

 

(I bought a pilot resin (rest models) which goes out of the cockpit I hope that it arrives fast....^^)

 

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Magnifique travail, Pascal! :bow:

 

The beauty of it (and also perhaps the reason why it worked so well) is that the weathering is done in logical sequences: fresh paint > faded paint > smear and smudges > tear and wear. That way, one can control/fine tune the colour shift at every step of the process.

 

One question: I don't remember you mentioning chipping fluid. Do you use any of it – like in the final step, where the zinc chromate shows through on the wing roots? Or is the zinc chromate simply dry-brushed OVER the sea blue layer?

 

Thank you for sharing

 

Quang

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Magnifique travail, Pascal! :bow:

 

The beauty of it (and also perhaps the reason why it worked so well) is that the weathering is done in logical sequences: fresh paint > faded paint > smear and smudges > tear and wear. That way, one can control/fine tune the colour shift at every step of the process.

 

One question: I don't remember you mentioning chipping fluid. Do you use any of it – like in the final step, where the zinc chromate shows through on the wing roots? Or is the zinc chromate simply dry-brushed OVER the sea blue layer?

 

Thank you for sharing

 

Quang

 

 

 thank you !

I don't use chipping fluid i don't like and is not dry brushed , as I work by fine very diluted layer has the domestic alcohol to see alcohol 90 Sometimes.

The painting comes out easily just by scratching with a blade of scalpel  or toothpick  :yahoo:

Edited by pascal JMW
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The blades propeller one received their coat of semi gloss black 

 

essaie18.jpg

 

Until that dries, I had fun has to make a box covered with a cover............. to dress a little the playlet 

 

(A plastic box, a tissue to soak with the future lets dry and paint later)

 

essaie19.jpgessaie20.jpgessaie21.jpg

 

essaie22.jpg

 

:punk: cheers Pascal 

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