F`s are my favs Posted May 20, 2016 Author Share Posted May 20, 2016 Thanks dsahling1 and Shawn. Btw the F-35B endeavor was a kind of improvisation to see whether it will going to work. I`ve previously build F-35A but with lights and was a lot of fun, so for the B version i wanted to try something different. It turned out really good. They are just two completely different models... in one But it all depends on the quality of the kit (mostly for the fit of the doors). The Kittyhawk kit is impeccable. And i`m planning to try to build all my further models with at least retractable landing gears, if possible, cause honestly - i prefer the clean smooth flying silhouettes of the planes rather than lurking on the ground like "Christmas trees". Here is a link to the build of the F-35B and a link to the F-15C topic, if someone is interested. It`s in bulgarian, but i hope the pictures can tell enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F`s are my favs Posted May 20, 2016 Author Share Posted May 20, 2016 While for the landing gears, i`m thinking about something... I recently noticed that there is a "small" imperfection in this kit - in the pylon of the nose landing gear. There is a bit larger gap between the upper part of the wheel and the adjacent metal frame... ...which should be really smaller (behind the thing at which points the red arrow) Is this an issue in the C version too?! So i`m thinking what to do with this wheel... whether to leave it like that or not... Perhaps i will try to adjust the big "anti-vibration thing" to cover a little more from the gap. Cutting the metal somewhere through the metal and then "gluing" again is not a feasible options as the wheel will be rotating and it should not compromise the structural support. However, i wonder how is it going with the cutting/gluing aspect of metal parts. If someone tried to glue two metal parts - i will pretty much appreciate some clues - with what type of glue, the joint becomes stronger like a whole piece of metal or not? Is it possible at all... Whitey 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn M Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 Your F-35 is jaw dropping good! Guys, you need to follow that link its amazing. F`s are my favs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chek Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 Firstly, just got a chance to watch your F-35 'moving parts video.- a stunning and very skilled build, having parts in motion and still to scale is a real talent. Can't help with the F-15E gear as I don't have the kit. But other Tamiya kits have additional plastic parts - is there another part to mimic the flanged side fork that the axle is mounted on? That would reduce the apparent gap a little. Otherwise I'd suggest cutting the fork to shorten it, and then drill and pin it back together with an epoxy glue. I'm not sure, but the Tamiya metal may be a mazak alloy, which requires a special solder. Others may be more certain. But this can't be a problem unique to you and I'm sure a Tamiya Strike Eagle fan will be along soon. F`s are my favs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F`s are my favs Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 Just the inner sides of the intakes are ready with their coverings. Now - covering the gaps on the outer sides... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Driver Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 Strike Eagle baby! F`s are my favs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F`s are my favs Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 Hello F's. The item protruding from the front of the gear leg is called a "shimmy dampener ". It is not fitted to the C. When I built an F-15E I shortened the curved arm that the wheel attaches to so that there was less of a gap between the tyre and leg. This resulted in a slightly nose down stance to the finished model as if the pilot had dabbed the brakes. For it to look perfect I think the oleo would need to be extended. HTC Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F`s are my favs Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 10x for the info! The two metal parts (after cutting the curved arm/fork) were glued with what type of glue? Is there a glue at all that is strong enough to hold these thin parts? ... while i`m thinking about drilling another hole for the screw a little bit higher than the old one, and then cut/file down the corner where is the old screw. In this way it will reduce the length of the squared arm and will still stay in one whole piece. However, making a hole and then threading it to accept the exact size of the screw... not easy... uff... i don`t know... The goal is to make the wheel turning and... okey okey, i should think about that again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chek Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 (edited) I'm not sure how bothered you are by shape issues, but the lower Tamiya axle support fork (half-fork?) misses the reflex curve of the original while also omitting the strengthening flange. And shimmy damper. This is found on the web and is a bit lo-res for a detail photo, but shows the curve(s) of the fork reasonably well from the frontal aspect. Edited May 21, 2016 by Chek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F`s are my favs Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 Yep, quite an imperfection in the shape. Although i`ll probably leave it like it is OOB, because i prefer make it stronger to sustain rotation. Btw this photo is... wow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghatherly Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 (edited) Just the inner sides of the intakes are ready with their coverings. Now - covering the gaps on the outer sides... Fantastic build! I should mention with all the work you are doing with the intakes that you need to widen the bottom front of the intake 1.5 mm where it attaches to the intake lip. The intake is to narrow for the fuselage, and it will be a real trouble spot to deal with after the fact. I am on my IPhone so I cannot add a link, but if go to our forum and look at the F-15 intake thread, you can see pictures of what I am talking about when comparing the old CE intake, which is kit width to ours which are widened as I suggest. The fix is easy as you cut down the center of the intake bottom 3-4 cm, and insert a spacer at the front. I then apply masking tape on the inside and fill the arrow triangle with CA Glue. Pull the tape and sand and prime! Hope this helps, just a suggestion. Thx, Gary GT Resin Edited May 22, 2016 by ghatherly F`s are my favs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F`s are my favs Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 Thanks Gary for the hint, i think i suppose the right thing. The intake duct is smaller, which is visible as a gap, perhaps this is the 1.5mm, only when the intake (with the two ramps) is down. Otherwise the intake (with the ramps) when is in up position, covers the gap and matches perfectly with the fuselage. PS: i searched for "F-15 intake" and can not find something precise... I would be glad to see some refrncs. PS2: these C eagles in your signature are good. Verry very Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chek Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 I've got a set in transit to me, so I haven't actually set eyes on them yet, but I think the Eduard etched intake ramps will look far better than Tamiya's very blocky looking plastic mouldings. The pattern looks fairly OK, but from the photos they look well over-emphasised and set in 3-D-ish blocks rather than the pattern of suction holes they actually are. F`s are my favs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 (edited) The two metal parts (after cutting the curved arm/fork) were glued with what type of glue? Is there a glue at all that is strong enough to hold these thin parts? ... while i`m thinking about drilling another hole for the screw a little bit higher than the old one, and then cut/file down the corner where is the old screw. In this way it will reduce the length of the squared arm and will still stay in one whole piece. However, making a hole and then threading it to accept the exact size of the screw... not easy... uff... i don`t know... The goal is to make the wheel turning and... okey okey, i should think about that again. Hi F's, The metal of the gear leg is not too hard plus I think the screws are slightly self-tapping so a hole close to the size might be ok. Remember to add some material (I used slivers of plastic) to repair the look of the circular wheel mounting point at the bottom of the leg too. If you feel added strength is required because you'd like the wheel to rotate I'd suggest a two pack epoxy adhesive. Here is the stance I mentioned if you only adapt the curved part. You can see how she sits slightly nose down. Ideally you would lengthen the oleo by the same amount that you shorten the curved arm. HTH Cheers. Edit* I forgot to mention that you may encounter issues with your tyres in the future. Like you, I hollowed out the tyre to allow the airframe to bulge the sidewall but now, years on, the side walls have perished and my first Strike Eagle sits on flat tyres. May I suggest introducing a piece of plastic within the rubber to keep it at the correct height? Edited May 23, 2016 by geedubelyer Chek, F`s are my favs and Zero77 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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