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3D Printing


SCRATCH BUILDER

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Hey Alex,

 

Try lowing you fan speed and print speed to help with the cracking,  I use a glue stick to help my HIPS stick and i always use a raft, the raft settings are different and pre-set in the software, so if anything warps first its the raft.

 

I could never get the hair spray or tape to work either.

 

on my Luzlbot Mimi i have an encloser but not on my Taz6

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Learning CAD would make more sense - and you'd be creating your own parts instead of copying existing ones! Then, even if you have a 3D printer, it's not like you just scan and have the resuting part printed. 3D scanning requires a lot of know how, clean up and creating wall thickness before you can even think about printing what you have scanned.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi there,

 

since I still had problems with the printing material not sticking enough on the heated glass plate of my 3d printer, I ordered some special adhesive foil called BuildTak. I cut off the corners for the holding clamps, laid it on the glass plate, and gave it a try. This was printed with HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene), and it sticked perfectly on the foil. Huge improvement :frantic:

 

g2KM1x6.jpg

 

y92gFXC.jpg

 

Cheers

Alex

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Good deal Alex,  I just use a Elmore's All Purpose glue stick.

 

Still looking at a couple different SLA printers, this one holds promise https://peopoly.net/

wont be until after the first of the year, the wife decided we needed a new house so i am busy with that at the moment...BUT!!! I will have my own 12 x 12 shop now :yahoo:

Edited by SCRATCH BUILDER
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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys. In the process of making up my mind into buying probably an ultimaker 3. I have no previous experience with cad design and wanted to ask you which software paying or otherwise you recommend that would be useable with both the ultimaker and shapeways. Based on your recommendations i will find an online course to learn during my downtime at layovers and during long haul flying. I am kind of tired of doing silicone molds and casting my resin so i thought being able to work on my “master†wherever i go on my laptop sounded like a dream. Also remote printing while not having to be around the machine ie shapeways is also a cool way of doing things. I await your thoughts and indications prior to taking the jump and buying the software!

Thanks gang!

Karim

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This is a great thread. Much talk about the printers and now what about the CAD software used to produce the 3D model? How about discussion about Software/3D printer combinations that by your experiences have been successful.

 

I have an Apple computer BTW.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Rick

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Rhinoceros for me. Been using it since it was a free disc on the front of Computer Arts so I know it pretty well. I just bought a Form Labs 2 printer for my shed, alongside a Stepcraft 420 cnc machine.

 

Whatever, learn CAD. Doesn't really matter which, there are several online free ones like Fusion 360. They all need a bit of effort to learn, but once you can CAD stuff, you are FREE!!!!!

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As long as your files are saved as STL you can print on just about any printer, its all about the g-code

 

3D Programs:

Blender

Fusion 360

Any of the Autocad

Tinker Cad (if you want to get your feet wet)

 

More then i can think of at the moment, Just find the one that works for you, you can overcome any issues if your comfy with the software your using.

 

 

Wunwing

 

Let me know what you think of the Form2, Looking at that and others.

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Wunwing

 

Let me know what you think of the Form2, Looking at that and others.

 

 

Yes please spill the beans on the Form 2.

 

I am also seriously thinking about purchasing one.

 

What kind of resin are you using ?

 

 

Thanks a lot

 

Mikkel

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Hey guys. In the process of making up my mind into buying probably an ultimaker 3. I have no previous experience with cad design and wanted to ask you which software paying or otherwise you recommend that would be useable with both the ultimaker and shapeways. Based on your recommendations i will find an online course to learn during my downtime at layovers and during long haul flying. I am kind of tired of doing silicone molds and casting my resin so i thought being able to work on my “master†wherever i go on my laptop sounded like a dream. Also remote printing while not having to be around the machine ie shapeways is also a cool way of doing things. I await your thoughts and indications prior to taking the jump and buying the software!

Thanks gang!

Karim

 

Between the CAD-software, where you create your 3d-objects, and the actual printer, there is a printing software interposed. Ultimaker offers its own printing software called Cura, which can be downloades here for free, and can be uses for other printers, too:

 

https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software

 

Within Cura, you can load your 3d-objects, and make settings for the printer (for example layer hight, wall thickness, infill densitiy, temperatures, ...).

Cura can load 3mf, obj and stl-files. So, whatever CAD-software you use, it should be able to save the 3d-objects as one of these file types, so that the files can be loaded in Cura and prepared for printing. Maybe, there are also CAD-programms out there, which can directly controll a printer without the need for a interposed printing software.

 

For actual creating a 3d-object, I still use Sketchup. It's out there for free for non commercial use, and hasn't changed much over the years. I'm sure there are more powerfull programms than Sketchup. I once tried a free trial version of Rhinoceros. It seems to be way superiour when it comes to create round shaped surfaces, like an aircraft fuselage. But I was pretty overwhelmed by its thousands of functions.

 

Talking about the Ultimaker 3, I'm very happy with it (especially after I solved the adhesion problem with a special foil). But to be honest, I hardly use its "unique selling point" (compared to the previous version), the second print core. For a lazy guy like me, it's nice to have allways two different materials "loaded" with no need to laboriously change the filament. But I think that pretty everything I'm printing now (modelling-related) could be printed with a machine with just one printcore, too. For example the Ultimaker 2 with just one printcore is still available, and I suppose it is still a good machine. Compared to the Ultimaker 3, it is much cheaper.

 

If I had no printer yet, and if I knew what I know now, maybe (just maybe) I would buy a cheaper printer with just one printcore. But now I have it, and I don't regret it :frantic:

 

Cheers

Alex

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