Jump to content

Roden's Albatros D.III: Weathering, U/C, and some Rigging


Gazzas

Recommended Posts

As far as I know, the fuel tank and ammo bins weren't painted.

Might be wrong, and I've done all my Albatri wrong. Not much will be seen anyways.

I went on  my flawed memory from when I had the Smithsonian Institution book on their D.Va restoration.  I definitely remember the fuel cell being green.  But, finding a recent image from them with it hanging from the ceiling, I can just make out that the ammo can is NMF.  Bummer!

 

GAz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

HI again, Everyone.

     I find myself doing each session of this model with trepidation.  I really only have much experience with 1/48 planes and 1/35 armor.  After basically going through my short modelling life ignoring or simplifying interior details I find myself wanting to measure up to the great work that a lot of you do. 

 

Gaz

 

Don't you be too sure about that. I like your style and restrained use of colour and effects. This: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=72694&p=1004079 is something I'd be proud of

 

I've noticed your trepidation in your posts. You don't need to worry, your modelling is fine.

 

I've put up a caveat in one of my build threads somewhere about my photos - I show you what I want to, and I don't show you what I don't. I put up pictures of stuff I'm pleased with, or to tell a story. I don't put up pictures of what I'm not happy to show, and I'm pretty sure most other people do the same. Forums give the impression that folk are always successful, never mediocre. I know that I'm rarely satisfied with my models when they are in my hand, I only see the faults. So I see faults, others see 'good stuff' via my pictures.

 

Weird, isn't it

 

Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think to pressurizes the fuel tank and prime the engine?   Hope some one can confirm that.

 

The lower one pressurises the fuel tank for starting the engine, after that there is an air pump on the engine

 

The upper 'pump' is the starter magneto:

 

bosch-anlass-magnet-starter-magneto_1_52

 

Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went on my flawed memory from when I had the Smithsonian Institution book on their D.Va restoration. I definitely remember the fuel cell being green. But, finding a recent image from them with it hanging from the ceiling, I can just make out that the ammo can is NMF. Bummer!

 

GAz

Might've been oxidized. I think the tanks were brass.

Having never seen one with my own eyes, I can't be 100% on it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Everyone,

    As I prepared to take the fotos for this update, I realized I had lost one of the pumps from the interior.  I have no idea when or where I lost it.  I had vacuumed the floor before this session and hadn't seen it.  It's painted black and is 3/8 inch long.  Pretty hard to miss on beige carpet.  Rifling and tipping the box to make loose parts slide didn't work, either.  Carefully combing my mobile bench failed to yield the part as well.  I guess I'm going to have to scratch build it...  Dammit!

 

Anyway...the update...

 

As a clumsy, hater of PE I've decided to use it only where necessary or where I feel having it would be a great improvement.  The first parts to be added were on the ventral side where the plastic detail had been removed trying to clean up the seam.  I'm amazed that Roden put any detail there at all, or didn't engineer the kit in a way that the seam would have been somewhere else.

110921.jpg

The landing gear mounting bracket (if that's what it's called) and two engine access hatches were split down the middle by a seam which no longer exists.

 

b_110942.jpg

All of the cabane strut mounts were rounded while trying to smooth the joint between the upper deck and the fuselage halves.  All of the plastic pieces were replaced with PE.  The pilots step was raised and smooth so I replaced it with the more detailed PE part.

 

b_111024.jpg

Unfortunately, I damaged one of the engine vents while cleaning up the top deck seam.  I've ruined three of the vents already trying to get it right.  I'm not really keen to try again.  It looks pretty hideous, and I'm half tempted to try to make one from sheet.

 

I'm really keen to get to making the woodgrain.

 

 

BTW...  After you glue on the PE with CA, do you add anything else to make it hold on better?

 

Thanks for looking!

 

Gaz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Everyone,

    I've spent a bit of time trying to replicate unstained pine plywood.

 

First step was a base coat to simulate the lighter part of the wood.  I mixed that from 8 parts white paint, 1 part zinc oxide which is also known as zinc yellow.

 

Next was to mask the panels I wanted to do first.  Unfortunately this was to have bad consequences later.

 

Then I used a fine tipped brush to make squiggly lines over the base coat with burnt umber oil paint.

 

After that, it was just blending it to make it look like plywood would look.  Each panel had to made to look a little different.

 

b_111856.jpg

 

b_111920.jpg

 

b_111941.jpg

 

b_112042.jpg

 

The next step is waiting for the oil paints to dry.  They're very delicate in their current moist condition and easy to rub off.

 

After that I can "stain and varnish" them using Tamiya clear acrylics.

 

Thanks for looking!

 

Gaz

Edited by Gazzas
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't you be too sure about that. I like your style and restrained use of colour and effects. This: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=72694&p=1004079 is something I'd be proud of

 

I've noticed your trepidation in your posts. You don't need to worry, your modelling is fine.

 

I've put up a caveat in one of my build threads somewhere about my photos - I show you what I want to, and I don't show you what I don't. I put up pictures of stuff I'm pleased with, or to tell a story. I don't put up pictures of what I'm not happy to show, and I'm pretty sure most other people do the same. Forums give the impression that folk are always successful, never mediocre. I know that I'm rarely satisfied with my models when they are in my hand, I only see the faults. So I see faults, others see 'good stuff' via my pictures.

 

Weird, isn't it

 

Richard

I totally agree with Richard, you modeling skills are great, no worries there, this is a very interesting and informative thread....good stuff.....I'm interested in this one for sure....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gaz

The effect looks great! , once you get to the stain, varnish and weathering it should really pop!

Jeff,

   Thank you!  I'm not really sure about how to weather wood and canvas.  But I'll definitely make the attempt.

 

I totally agree with Richard, you modeling skills are great, no worries there, this is a very interesting and informative thread....good stuff.....I'm interested in this one for sure....

Jeff,

    Thank you for the confidence boosting words!  I'm glad that you're finding the thread interesting as I slowly try to learn so many new techniques.

 

Gaz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jeff,

   Remember it's only a plastic model.  The worst thing that can happen is that you won't reach your own expectations.  There's really nothing to fear. 

 

I think one trap many of us fall into is thinking that if it doesn't look as good as somebody else' build, that we've failed or wasted our time and money.  When I get to feeling this way, I try to make myself think of the actual building of the model, and not just the result.  The hours we spend enjoying and learning instead of the just the pleasure we expect to get from looking at the finished result.

 

My first biplane was a 1/48 scale Eduard Roland C.II.  It has only a little rigging, it's upper wings attach directly to the fuselage, and it only has two single-piece struts.  The result didn't reach my expectations, but it was some good practice.  

 

It's sitting on my shelf waiting for it's turn to be replaced and chucked into the bin.  If I hadn't built it, I don't know that I'd be working on this one.  We have to start somewhere.

 

Gaz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For wood on small bits/areas I use gouache paints over a cream base - sealed with Tamiya clears. Works great for 1/48-/72 Albatri fuselages, though it gets a bit wonky in larger scales.

Still works like a charm on interior surfaces that won't suffer huge amounts of judging eyes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...