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Hasegawa Bf 109K-4 DONE!


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Hello, everyone!
 

I wasn't going to do a WIP thread for this, because it's "another 109". However, I have run across a couple things that I thought would be worth documenting and I can ask for some help from the community at the same time. More on that in a bit. Here's the deal....

 

The plan is to do "Black 15", as seen in the following photo. I'm including the original black and white photo, as well as one that has been colorized. I will certainly be straying from the colors of the latter, as I'm not totally convinced that they are accurate, but here are the pics.

 

 

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While this will still be a rather quick build, I'm going to put more focus into it than I did with the two Gustavs I just built. I've already ordered a set of Maketar masks (specifically for this plane, which I just lucked into finding) and an Eagle Cals set (which also has this plane, but I'm basically just going to use the stencils and Werke Number). While I will not be buying an aftermarket cockpit, I do plan on adding some bits and pieces from scratch to liven it up a bit. I'm also following Thierry Laurent's fantastic tweak list, at least for some things. I won't be going "all out", but there are a few things I want to address. However, the biggest questions I have are with regards to the belly of the plane. It appears that there are a lot of things to change in this area and I'm not totally sure on how exactly it should look. To make it even harder, most of the pictures of WIP threads are now in "photobucket hell", so my preliminary research hasn't turned up much. That is where I'm hoping some of you fine people can assist me. I'm looking for WIPs, or photos of the real thing to guide me, especially as it pertains to the belly (but am open to any info that is "K specific" that people have to offer).

 

So far, I have the basics of the cockpit moving along, but haven't added anything to the sidewalls, yet. I used some PE rudder pedals from my spares and modified the kit's cannon breach cover to make a better looking rendition of what was used on the 30mm MK 108. The straps were made from masking tape and spare PE buckles. It's not perfect, but looks a lot better than what comes in the kit. Here's what it looks like after the preliminary coat of RLM 66, but nothing else yet. The belts are Fine Molds.

 

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I probably won't be doing a clear step by step on every part of the plane, but I DO want to put some focus on the belly details so that anyone looking for that in the future, who might stumble across this build, will have something to look at. I appreciate you all taking the time to look and if you can help me out.

 

Thanks!

 

John

 

:piliot:

 

 

 

 

Edited by mywifehatesmodels
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I know it's late news for you, John, but it may help others.  The Revell K-4, the one with with the Hartmann aircraft as cover art, has decals for this aircraft. 

 

Sincerely,

Mark

Thanks, Mark!

 

You know, I had totally forgotten that Revell did a rebox of this kit and I was not aware that these markings were ever included in a kit. Great to know!

 

Thanks again,

 

John

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I think I've got the belly pretty close. I need to clean a few things up, but it should be no problem. I also want to clarify that I don't find Thierry's tweak list to be lacking in any way. In fact, quite the opposite. His lists are very well written and an invaluable resource, even if you choose not to do everything that is outlined. The only issue here was me. I'm the type of person that needs to see certain things before I can fully understand them, sometimes. The belly is the only area of this build, from what I can see, that gave me a moment of pause and wonder over exactly what it should look like. I followed the advice given by Vincent K, as linked by Mike, above. Here's how it looks right now:

 

 

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I should also mention that I chose to box in the feed chutes using brass channel and rectangular tubing. It looks a little "chunky" at the moment, but once I do some more cleanup and get everything painted, it should be much better. It's also worth mentioning that, if you should decide to box the chutes in and want to give them some real depth, you will want to check the fit of the parts on the INTERIOR, so that they don't interfere. The 13mm chutes weren't really an issue. The 30mm chute, however, will require you to remove part of the "H" spar setup that helps align the wings. I removed the front right spar to make clearance for the chute. This shouldn't create any issues, as the rear spar is still present and the wings aren't so large as to create any support issues with this removed.

 

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I've also got the cockpit mostly completed and the fuselage buttoned up. I added some wire and a new oxygen hose made from small electrical wire, as well as some detail on the rear deck, including the seat harness attachment points that the kit doesn't provide. I am not sure yet if I will display the canopy open, or not, but am also considering adding more detail to the canopy, itself, either way. We'll see how it goes.

 

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I've also added rivets to the fuselage and the wings will be next, before I add them to the fuselage. Not sure how many updates I will do from here. Maybe one per day, but maybe I'll just wait until it's finished. I've built enough Hasegawa 109s that I can probably do the rest blindfolded (okay, I'll take it off to paint, but..... :lol: )

 

 

Thanks again for all the help and encouragement!

 

John

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Spare a few touch-ups I want to do, I'm calling this one done. I tried to get photos, but the lighting was poor and I wasn't going to fight with it. It looks like I may be able to get outdoors tomorrow, but we'll see if the weather cooperates. I'll post them in the RFI forum if it does. Here are a couple of teasers, in the meantime.

 

 

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The Maketar masks worked very well. I was surprised at how clean the markings came out, actually. The only down-side is that they were the kabuki tape type of masks, which made working with them extremely difficult (the thin white borders on the numbers and the Gruppe bar almost drove me insane!). I had only ever used vinyl mask sets before now and they seem to be more forgiving and flexible, but the kabuki type don't lift as easily on the edges, which leaves less room for surprise paint runs, etc. I guess they both have their pros and cons, but I have to give a shout out to Maketar for a great product here! It's not for the faint of heart, but turns out a fantastic result if you have the patience and a steady hand. I think I must have had at least a dozen different painting sessions, trying to capture what I felt the original plane would have looked like. It was a "patchwork quilt" type of finish, as I suspect the real subject was probably repainted at least a couple times, at least in some areas. So, getting certain parts to match as closely as I could, took a lot of extra prep and planning. The stencils, werke number and hakenkreuz on the tail (which was not included in the mask set) were from Eagle Editions and were also without surprises or any real issues.

 

Thanks for following along!

 

John

Edited by mywifehatesmodels
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