Resin Questions

[Gazzas]

HI Everyone,

   I have almost no experience with resin.  The only thing I know is that it needs CA to glue it to things.

 

Which putties will work for it?  Already found one bubble in an exhaust pipe.

 

Are Alclad paints ok?

 

I've read the dust is toxic?

 

Anything else you could tell me will be gratefully received.

 

Thanks,

 

Gaz

[ssculptor]

The dust of any of the resins is bad for a human being. Avoid it as best you can. 

When grinding or even heavy sanding any plastics I either work outdoors or if indoors I work by an open window with a fan blowing and me between the window and the fan. 

The stuff is dangerous when wet or dry. 

 

Just a personal preference but I use a real face mask when working with dust. I shave first and then put it on and grind away. 

Some modelers insist that those painting masks are good. You know, the ones with of thin styrofoam and a rubber band that holds it on.

Aside from using those as linings for brassieres I cannot think of any reason for their existence. 

 

[Gazzas]

The dust of any of the resins is bad for a human being. Avoid it as best you can. 

When grinding or even heavy sanding any plastics I either work outdoors or if indoors I work by an open window with a fan blowing and me between the window and the fan. 

The stuff is dangerous when wet or dry. 

 

Just a personal preference but I use a real face mask when working with dust. I shave first and then put it on and grind away. 

Some modelers insist that those painting masks are good. You know, the ones with of thin styrofoam and a rubber band that holds it on.

Aside from using those as linings for brassieres I cannot think of any reason for their existence. 

 

I have a narrow and long-ish nose.  Those paper filter masks just channel the dust into the gaps between cheek, nose, and mask no matter how much bend I put on that little metal strip.  I think I'll invest in a new filter for my heavy duty DIY mask.

 

Cheers,

 

Gaz

[Mark M]

prime the resin before alclad, or infact any paint as the resin is often greasy

[ssculptor]

I do not understand why people insist on not protecting themselves. 

I use a half face mask that has screw-in filters, which I replace periodically. Its my life and my health. 

You all go do what you want. 

But then again, I will never  use a CPAP mask, air hose and air pump when I sleep. So to avoid being a complete hypocrite I will stop preaching. What the hell, no one lives forever.

[G-Man]

I work in an auto body shop and the fillers we use all have resin. Whenever I'm sanding, I wear a 3M P100 Particulate Respirator. You can get them at Home Depot, they have two pink filters that screw on the sides. A dust mask just doesn't seal as well and doesn't filter anything.

[wunwinglow]

But those flimsy dust masks are brilliant at keeping the latest duck flu virus at bay, clearly.......

[Wouter]

Please use protection. The first times I worked with resin I didn't, but after some time I started to get nose bleedings out of nowhere. After I finished my model and cleaned my workplace that stopped. So I can certainly say from first hand experience that resin dust is not good for you. I now use protection every time I need to sand, saw or otherwise work with resin.

[Guest Peterpools]

Hi Gaz

I use resin on almost every build for years including major conversions and full resin kits. For fillers, all the popular ones work just fine: Tamiya, Squadron and Bondo. Just treat it like plastic except for gluing which requires CCA.

You name the paint and I shot it on with absolutely no problems. Prepare the surface as normal; I prime exteriors and don't prime interiors and paint away. No problems to report. I find there is way to much made of painting resin - balderdash!

Just thoroughly wash the resin as it tends to have more release agent which does effect the paint adhesion.

I done a million Alclad and AK NMF finishes on resin parts and models - no problems at all. I prime for all NMF these days with Mr Color Gloss Black (preferred) or Tamiya Gloss Black, let dry and then it's NMF time.

If I can help with any specific info, just let me know.

What's the scoop?

Peter

Edited December 18, 2017 by Peterpools

[Hubert Boillot]

All of the above about protection, plus :

 

For gluing, remember the characteristics of the glues you use. CA has tremendous tensile strength, but very weak shear strength. I.e. pulling apart two parts glued with CA in a direction perpendicular to the glued surface (think two fingers for instance ) will be very difficult. Prying them apart by rotating the parts along the glue joint not so ...

If you want good shear strength, use two-component epoxy glue, the "ultimate" one being JB Weld.

For filling, epoxy-based filler like Milliput is good, as is a mix of CA and ballast (like talcum powder of glass beads) in small bubble-holes.

 

Hubert

Edited December 18, 2017 by MostlyRacers

[Rick Griewski]

Or you can just wet sand.

And... Take care to rinse the sand paper and all surfaces well or the dust creeps in over time.

 

Rick

[Jking207]

I found a Dremel razor saw handy.  They come packaged like PE would.

[ssculptor]

Even if it absolutely helps prevent high blood pressure, heart disease, stroke, kidney disease, and early death (among other things)? You realize that very few people actually wear a mask these days? The new machines are MUCH improved over ones from even a couple of years ago. Completely automated, virtually silent, and with the nasal prongs, no mask to bother you.

Hmmmmm. I will have to look into that. The old ones would have been great if I were still 10 years old. With all that paraphernalia on my head I felt like, and looked like, a pilot of a B-24 every time I put it on. As a child I could have had lots of fun pretending I was flying long distance missions at high altitude. 

But not as an adult. 

Also, at my age I wake and make several trips to the latrine, or chamber pot, every night. That seems to be common to old geezers my age. Ir is hard enough to get to the john in time without leaving a yellow trail on the floor behind me. But to have to unhook all that equipment while half asleep is just asking too much of a mere mortal. 

I will look into the new CPAP  gizmos and see if I can adapt to them  

Thanks for the info. 

Whoops, excuse me, gotta go! Gangway, here I come!

[dennismcc]

For bubbles in resin I normally try to glue some plastic rod into the hole, cut it off and sand, I did have problems with lots and lots of tiny air bubbles in the wings of a kit this was cured using Mr Surfacer 1200, I applied it with an AB but I got better results using a cocktail stick.

Lots of air bubbles

After Mr Surfacer

 

For warped parts holding them under hot water and bending them back in shape works wonders.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[Gazzas]

Nice work on those air bubbles!  Thanks for the tips!

 

Gaz