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What else do I need for Revell's 1/32 Bf109G6 RV 04665?

Am I really doing this?

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#31 Gazzas

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Posted 17 April 2018 - 08:42 AM

Is it the same one on the Tamiya box  here?

SLN5gE.jpg

If so, I'm using that set on this current build over in the Non-LSP forum.  I'm gonna use the Tamiya decals instead of going aftermarket because the interior decals have seemed thin and supple.  I'm hoping that Tamiya has finally gotten rid of their thick unyielding decals.

 

That's one of those schemes that have tantalized for a long time.

 

Gaz


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#32 Padraic Conway

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Posted 17 April 2018 - 11:50 AM

Hi Gaz. Almost identical, just a different number. Great looking scheme! It seems that great minds...

 

Padraic



#33 TBC

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Posted 17 April 2018 - 12:46 PM

Hey Gaz,  Looking forward to your G-6!  I bought the Revell G-6 just to use the wings on the G-10 Erla build so I'll have to get around to building it one of these days.  I thought the Revell G-10 forward cowling was a bit anemic looking so I opted for the AMUR Reaver G-10 cowling, which looked great.  They also have a G-6 cowling and prop that might interest you, unless you've already topped out on the AM stuff.
 
 
ALM_6343.jpg
 
ALM_6339.jpg


I’ve not used, or seen, any of their products in person. Are they as good as they look in pictures? How about fit?

#34 Wouter

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Posted 17 April 2018 - 01:21 PM

I have the correction set for the G10. Looks very good in person, bubble free, sharp details and the fit of the individual parts is as good as resin can get. I haven't used used it yet in a build, but there was a wip thread here very recently from John (aka Thunnus): http://forum.largesc...ver#entry981980

 

A little work to blend everything in, but nothing you can't expect from a resin set or conversion.


On the bench, on the shelf, Finished. Just take a look here:https://www.scalemat...te.php?id=17982

 


#35 Thunnus

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Posted 17 April 2018 - 03:28 PM

AMUR Reaver produces very nice resin products.  As Wouter has stated, the parts are clean, with sharp detail and fit well.  The G-10 cowling requires some surgery of the kit fuselage to accommodate the new cowling but the instructions tell you where the cuts need to be.  Careful cutting, dry-fitting and adjustments need to be made and the lower part of the cowling need to be faired in with putty but this is expected with this type of resin addition.

 

It takes some effort to get these types of resin mods into place but the results are worthwhile.  Here are a few photos of the AMUR Reaver G-10 cowling on the finished model.

 

JTK_3661.jpg

 

JTK_3624.jpg

 

JTK_3657.jpg

 

 

Unfortunately, the photo links on my G-10 build have been broken due to the change at Postimage.  I know it is a hassle but you can still right click on any photo, copy the image address, paste it into a new browser tab and replace the *.org with *.cc to see the photos.


John

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#36 TBC

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Posted 17 April 2018 - 07:40 PM

AMUR Reaver produces very nice resin products.  As Wouter has stated, the parts are clean, with sharp detail and fit well.  The G-10 cowling requires some surgery of the kit fuselage to accommodate the new cowling but the instructions tell you where the cuts need to be.  Careful cutting, dry-fitting and adjustments need to be made and the lower part of the cowling need to be faired in with putty but this is expected with this type of resin addition.

 

It takes some effort to get these types of resin mods into place but the results are worthwhile.  Here are a few photos of the AMUR Reaver G-10 cowling on the finished model.

 

JTK_3661.jpg

 

JTK_3624.jpg

 

JTK_3657.jpg

 

 

Unfortunately, the photo links on my G-10 build have been broken due to the change at Postimage.  I know it is a hassle but you can still right click on any photo, copy the image address, paste it into a new browser tab and replace the *.org with *.cc to see the photos.

I'm sold. It looks great. How much was it? A.M.U.R. Reaver doesn't post any prices on their web site but rather wants you to email them with what you want for a price quote with shipping.



#37 Thunnus

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Posted 17 April 2018 - 08:40 PM

I'm sold. It looks great. How much was it? A.M.U.R. Reaver doesn't post any prices on their web site but rather wants you to email them with what you want for a price quote with shipping.


I bought my AMUR Reaver G-10 cowling and 109G/K prop and spinner from AMUR Reaver through EBay (rustusmanov) for $36.50 shipped. I would expect similar prices if you contact Alexey at AMUR Reaver. He also posts here as Fencer-1.


BTW... I am in the process of fixing the photos on the build post that Wouter referenced. I am about halfway through and should have the entire post with photos back online by the end of today in case you (or anyone else) would like to see the process of adding the AMUR Reaver cowling to the Revell G-10 kit.

John

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#38 TBC

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Posted 17 April 2018 - 09:09 PM

I bought my AMUR Reaver G-10 cowling and 109G/K prop and spinner from AMUR Reaver through EBay (rustusmanov) for $36.50 shipped. I would expect similar prices if you contact Alexey at AMUR Reaver. He also posts here as Fencer-1.


BTW... I am in the process of fixing the photos on the build post that Wouter referenced. I am about halfway through and should have the entire post with photos back online by the end of today in case you (or anyone else) would like to see the process of adding the AMUR Reaver cowling to the Revell G-10 kit.

Great! Thanks. I wonder if Henri Daehnes VDM propellers will fit these nose correction sets?



#39 Thunnus

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Posted 17 April 2018 - 09:21 PM

Great! Thanks. I wonder if Henri Daehnes VDM propellers will fit these nose correction sets?


I had the golden opportunity to check as I had the AMUR Reaver and Henri Daehne's prop side by side but didn't do it! Sorry!  I think they were interchangeable but I can't be 100% sure.
 

IMG_1084.jpg

 

IMG_1090.jpg


John

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#40 Gazzas

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Posted 18 April 2018 - 02:52 AM

This will probably start an argument, but I have a theory based upon my recent experiences delving into the world of metal shaping.

I don't belive any more that panels of WWII aircraft were stamped from sheets of metal in a cookie-cutter fashion anymore. Many pieces would have been spun on a lathe and many would have been shaped by maneuvering pieces either through rollers, or the English wheel, or some other processes which I may not know of. And certainly we've all seen images of maidens stretched over bare aluminum which are sprouting many clico clips.

What this leads me to believe is that there was no definitive, or 'perfect' shape, and that there must have been billions of small, even negligible variations. The metal shaper maneuvered his piece through his machine, then periodically laid it on a 'buck' until he thought it fit correctly, along the appropriate points. I'm sure there were many times when a piece was "close enough for goverment work" as we'd say back in The Corps occasionally.

I prefer my late 109 spinners more bulbous than some others. That's just how I see them. For any of my other scale 109's I have a casting of. Hasegawa spinner if I feel the need.

But that's me, anyway.

Gaz

​We don't have social skills.  We build models.


#41 thierry laurent

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Posted 18 April 2018 - 04:35 AM

Well, it is clear all of them were not identical. However I have yet to see one looking like the plastic kit one! Nonetheless, if you like the kit one, do not hesitate. In any case, this is YOUR kit.
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#42 mattlow

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Posted 21 April 2018 - 05:06 PM

Gaz

 

I've built one of these G-6s (well, mostly) and there's a couple of things I'd add.

 

There are mistakes in the instructions relating to the nominally early and late versions. Keep your wits and references about you when checking which parts are for your aircraft of choice. You can build a G-14 from this kit with no additional parts by the way.

 

There's nothing wrong with the wing mounted wheel bumps on this kit. This aftermarket is produced for the subsequent G-10 Erla as it only supplies the large wheel bumps and both schemes I believe require the small ones.

 

The MG131 beulen are a weak spot. They are too something (I cannot recall if they're too small, big, fat or thin :)). I used spare Hasegawa G-6 ones which look better. I also used Hasegawa prop blades as they looked better I suppose a Henri Dahne would be the ultimate upgrade here (lovely work).

 

The 'pit is pretty good in my opinion. A little bit of extra detail scratched in would help and as Thierry says, get some replacement seatbelts (Radu's are still the best).

 

Get rid of the horrible, totally un-prototypical 'hinges' that attach the canopy. The canopy was attached by pins at either end which were invisible. Watch out for the fit of the rear bulkhead behind the pilot's head. It should sit flush with the fuselage sides (if you see what I mean), there's no ridge around that part. Here's an image that shows:

 

https://www.flickr.c...3678928/in/feed

 

U/C is a bit of a tricksy assembly and may be quite weak, you have brass so no worries there.

 

Elevators and ailerons have oversized 'disks' on them that represent something barely visible on the real machine. Quite tricky to remove without damaging adjacent details. A2Zee did these as part of a set, not sure if that is still produced under the new management..?

 

Raised area at wing to tip join is a bit of a gross exaggeration of the tape used to seal the joint (often seen as white/pale lines on this area). Sand right down, probably best represented with decal or paint..though I'm sure many aircraft didn't even display this feature as tape was painted over by camo?

 

Hope that helps. Mike and I did a review/guidance notes on this kit a few years ago. Not quite sure where it is and know that most/all images were bludgeoned by good old PB, bless them...

 

Matt


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