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Curtiss Kittyhawk (P-40E, Hasegawa)


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Instrument panel complete. I used bits from Airscale for the dials, so they're probably not all that accurate as I used leftovers from the Spitfire build. Used the kit's decals for lower panels, but I cut them to fit and punched holes using the mega tools so I can slip them over the panels switches/buttons. Started working on the belts -- I really dislike it. Way too fiddly and challenges my eyes and my patience, but the final results will be worth it. Shot a flat coat and added more weathering with pastels and pencils. Dropped some Future into the dials, but more will be needed as it starts to concave while it dries. I must really get that thing Carl uses for his dials.

 

ZduqXE7.jpg

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Great cockpit, Shaka! On Carl's example, I bought some of the clear UV gel for lenses too, and it works well. Expensive, though!

 

Kev

 

 

Still have yet to try that...................really want to, but am in a SERIOUS money crunch ATM.  When I do get some spare cash, Im gonna try some of the gel. 

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Dmthamade has pointed out there's a product called Bondic UV pen that is very similar and locally available. Both Home Despot and Crappy Tire here in Canada carry it so I imagine it's available in the US.

 

 

Shaka, your cockpit is turning out really great. The belts may be a pain but I think you're doing a great job on them

 

 

Carl

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Curious what "Crappy Tire" is? Must be some super-tire wholesale chain in Canada...

 

Any way, I added the belts, but had to forgo some of the tiny little belts as I could not glue that thing after dozens of attempts and even threw temper tantrum.

 

Cockpits complete. Thanks for watching.

 

Yb0AGLy.jpg

Edited by Shaka HI
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The finished cockpit looks very nice indeed.

 

"Crappy Tire" is the nickname that a lot of Canadians use for a store chain here called Canadian Tire. They're a combo of Pep Boys and Home Depot. So you can get car parts, including tires and a new kitchen sink at the same place.

 

Carl

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Very impressive Shaka, well done old pal. Just the rest of the plane to do now!

Max

No worries, Max. Once the pit is done and I enclose it, my progress seem to accelerate!

 

(Unless my Revell 109 and 190 builds get in the way! I need to build up the "mandatory" WWII collection before I start something a bit more obscure and involved!)

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I've assembled/painted the radiator/induction system, enclosed the cockpit into the fuselage. Assembled the landing gear bay and the wings. I have not attached the wings to the fuselage just yet. BUT, I take it back, the fit on this kit really isn't all that bad if you deviate as commonly discussed here and in all the other forums.

 

o8ff6JE.jpg

 

(Clear parts looks to fit like a champ!)

Edited by Shaka HI
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Gluing the guns to the top portion of the wings first will help. Put a spacer under the front engine inserts will save you some putty too. The rear glass is a *****, glue the halves together first to help with fit, but will still require putty. Also the area under the glass is the fuselage color, not interior green. I'm fighting this one right now...

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Thanks Brian. I actually wondered about that. I've decided to do  Col. Robert L. Scott's mount (vs a 112 Squadron RAF scheme) -- I know, I know..somewhat inappropriate for this build, but it's something I've always wanted. Let's see if we can make Olive Drab, a little less drab! Thing's will slow down a bit...I've got some things I need to take care of. Good luck with your builds gents!

 

arDHWws.jpg

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Minor work commences...I decided to try the salt technique with the props..I've noticed this spotty look with the props of actual period picts of Kittyhawks so I'd like simulate this. If this works out, I'll do the upper surfaces of the aircraft as well. Due to the monotone colour -- it's a good technique to use.

 

The fuselage/wings will require lot's of seam correction. The fit's not bad -- it's just not very precise as there's overlaps. Really hate correcting this kind of seams!

 

(Edit: I used the Montex masks a template for creating new masks out of yellow frog tape -- it's much easier to remove (without residue), but will still lift curved surfaces, but I've seen

this with other masks as well.)

 

fCM8CAl.jpg

Edited by Shaka HI
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