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Revell Spitfire MK IIa


Totalize

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Thanks guys,

 

Just got back from my vacation to Punta Cana and started a new job so haven't had any bench time thus far. Long weekend coming up here in Canada so I hope to get back on the bench and post some updates.

Cheers,
Dave.

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Revealing picture regarding the riveting along the fuselage of the Spitfire. Flush rivets in the nose fuselage and mushroom rivets starting right aft the cockpit. 

 

This was a deep discussion between Aerodynamics and Manufacturing groups, design right in the middle of the discussion waiting to execute the engineering drawings.

 

Extensive flight test were done measuring speed and simulating mushroom rivets with split peas bonded to the skin in order to find a good compromise to speed up production because mushroom rivets are easier to smash.  

 

Supermarine determined such arrangement of riveting. Aerodynamics with flush rivets in the forward fuselage was more impacted than the aft fuse. 

 

On the wings there were no negotiations, Beverley Shenstone probably persuaded top managment that the architecture of the wing was the heart of the good performance of the Spitfire.

 

Cheers  :piliot:

 

I am about to put on the domed rivets for the aircraft using the Archer set. The Tamiya "How to" build the Revell Spitfire has the domed rivets going past the cockpit to the front of the fuselage above the wing root. In looking at some pictures on line and this does not look correct. It seems all the rivets from the cockpit forward were flush?  Any input would be much appreciated.

 

 

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Edited by Maurice
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  • 2 weeks later...

Okay guys,

 

Here are a couple of shots of the starboard domed riveting work now complete. I also added the additional bulges and intake scoop on the starboard side use epoxy putty.

 

 

The darkened areas of some of the panel lines was the result of me giving it  a primer coat using the Sytnl Rez acrylic primer. I decided to try this stuff based on a review of it by Will Pattison who raved about it on Youtube as I want to get away from my tried and true tamiya lacquer primer. due its toxic nature. I did this before I started the riveting and wiped the fuselage down with ISO alcohol before priming. I primed with said primer and came back to it 24 hours later. I tried the tape pull test similar to what Will did. i.e. put a piece of tape on and rip it off then a piece of tape and lift the corner and remove in a peel back motion. Well I was frankly surprised. Both tape removal attempts removed huge pieces of the primer to the bare plastic. Not good at all. So, I got out the old ISO alcohol and striped this crappy primer off the fuselage. For me the jury is still out on acrylic primers. Damn I wish I could find one that works as well as a lacquer primer but perhaps I am whistling in the wind on that one.

 

 

 

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Edited by Totalize
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More update picture of the riveting now complete and wings mounted.

 

Crees, yes that's an issue with this kit.  Se  last picture below showing the gaps. the one on the port side is not too too bad but the one on right is quite pronounced.

 

 

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Edited by Totalize
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Time to add some resin accessories to this build. Here I replaced the incorrect kit oil cooler and radiator with the Barracuda resin parts.

I dremneled out the radiator area on the wing and also drilled out a hole on the oil cooler side (not shown) to add the intake section of the oil cooler.

 

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Next up was to add some additional details to the radiator.

 

On the front of the radiator I added the L-shaped Fuel vent using a piece of 1.2mm lead wire that I glued to its housing that I punched out with my punch and die set. I also added a line of positive rivets to the area as well.

 

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Edited by Totalize
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On the rear of the radiator I added the warming ducts using some 1.2mm plastic rod. These ducts fed warm air from the radiator to the eight .303 Machine guns to prevent them from freezing at altitude.

I also added the brackets on the radiator flap with some plastic rod and grandt line bolts. There was a noticeable gap between the sides of flap and the radiator itself so I traced the outline of the flap sides on some thing plastic stock,cut, shaped and added them to the sides of the flap. The flap now fit properly. I also added the missing bolts on the sides of the radiator that hold the flap in place.

 

Other updates on previous page.

 

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Edited by Totalize
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Primed. The exhaust is the kit part and just dry fitted. I will be replacing it with a set from Quickboost. The stabs are also just dry-fitted as is the Department of Correction Resin Rotol Prop & spinner. Fuselage panel lines re-scribed after priming. The time for paint draweth nigh.

 

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Edited by Totalize
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Well,

I decided that I want to try the marble method for this build. I believe the technique has been around since the 90's (you veterans would know best) and its been reconstituted recently by modelers like by Matt McDougall and others. Matt calls it black basing.

Here are some pictures of my work.
Pic 1. Base coat of Stynlrez Black primer and initial coat. I Used Tamiya Sky for this part. Looks like crap at this point. See below why I chose this colour.
Pic 2. Continuing with the Tamiya Sky I continued to merge the 2 colours but not completely. As you can see my spray mottling is kind of large compared to some of the other marbling I have seen. Looks more like a pattern of a Whale Shark than a marble pattern but not too worried. You can see the right side has more mottling and is the final coat. The left side still needs to be done. Starting to look better.
Pic 3. Blend coat. Here's where I tie everything together with a diluted coat of Mr. Color Duck Egg Green. The Tamiya Sky is a bit darker and greener than the Mr. Color Version of Sky type S which I think provides some degree of colour shift between the two. Hard to see with the camera but more evident with the human eye.

 

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