Smokeyforgothispassword Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 G'day Jim, First of all, fantastic build, I wish I had half the talent you obviously have. Being I car modeller primarily, I might be able to offer a little advice re: gloss clear coats. After many years of sucking badly at applying wet coats, I took some advice and started applying a mist coat or 2 before the final wet coat - it's saved me hours of sanding and polishing ClumsyDude 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClumsyDude Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 Thanks Kev! This is the easy bit, the fuselage and the vertical tails have me pretty intimidated ... wish me luck! G'day Jim, First of all, fantastic build, I wish I had half the talent you obviously have. Being I car modeller primarily, I might be able to offer a little advice re: gloss clear coats. After many years of sucking badly at applying wet coats, I took some advice and started applying a mist coat or 2 before the final wet coat - it's saved me hours of sanding and polishing Thanks Shane. I want to say I'm doing that, but I still get a subtle orange peel effect so I am probably doing it wrong. How much drying time do you allow between the first and second mist coats, and between the second mist coat and the first wet coat? Do you allow the first wet coat to dry before applying the second? Much appreciated! Cheers Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piprm Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 (edited) Wow! The paintwork is 1st-Class Jim, I think any of us here, would be chuffed to get this result! ...who says your clumsy? Phil Edited March 19, 2017 by Piprm ClumsyDude 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeyforgothispassword Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 (edited) Jim, This is my method for car bodies. (1) Mist coat, let dry for 10 minutes (for lacquer),half an hour ish for acrylic ,overnight for enamel. I like the first mist coat to be tacky when I spray mist #2 (2) Mist coat 2, lighter than coat 1, then let it dry to the point that you can handle it. (3) Wet coat - I do 2 light wet coats, letting the first one cure for about half an hour with lacquer and acrylic (4) Let it dry, about 4 times longer than you think it'll take I put the parts in my dehydrator for 24 hours, then leave them for a week in a dust free box. No matter what you do, orange peel is inevitable, but I find that by using the method I described, the surface irregularities are far smaller and easier to polish out. Shane Edited March 19, 2017 by Smokeyforgothispassword ClumsyDude 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClumsyDude Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 Wow! The paintwork is 1st-Class Jim, I think any of us here, would be chuffed to get this result! ...who says your clumsy? Phil Phil, thanks for the comment ... much appreciated from a scratch builder of your stature. I picked the "ClumsyDude" handle years ago, having noticed that I never got anything right the first time ... that it was always the fifth or sixth where I got the result I was after. I figured at the time it was just that I wasn't very skilled, but now I think that's just what you have to do to get something looking how you want, especially if you haven't tried it lots before. And I guess I'm kind of attached to the name by now! Jim, This is my method for car bodies. (1) Mist coat, let dry for 10 minutes (for lacquer),half an hour ish for acrylic ,overnight for enamel. I like the first mist coat to be tacky when I spray mist #2 (2) Mist coat 2, lighter than coat 1, then let it dry to the point that you can handle it. (3) Wet coat - I do 2 light wet coats, letting the first one cure for about half an hour with lacquer and acrylic (4) Let it dry, about 4 times longer than you think it'll take I put the parts in my dehydrator for 24 hours, then leave them for a week in a dust free box. No matter what you do, orange peel is inevitable, but I find that by using the method I described, the surface irregularities are far smaller and easier to polish out. Shane Thanks for that, Shane ... I have been much shorter than you recommend on the drying times, with the exception of the final bit ... I don't bust out the sandpaper until at least four days after spraying the clear. I'm thinking I'll lengthen that to a week based on your comments. I'm also curious about what a dehydrator is, where do you get them? Cheers Jim Piprm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeyforgothispassword Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 I might be a bit too cautious, but I6m scared of leaving my prints on the model, thats why I leave it so long. The foid dehydrator is just one of these http://www.target.com/p/nesco-gardenmaster-4-tray-food-dehydrator-fd-1010/-/A-580444, you can pick them up for under $50 bucks on ebay. ClumsyDude 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 JIm Good thing I had my shades on. Looking fantastic keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClumsyDude Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 I might be a bit too cautious, but I6m scared of leaving my prints on the model, thats why I leave it so long. The foid dehydrator is just one of these http://www.target.com/p/nesco-gardenmaster-4-tray-food-dehydrator-fd-1010/-/A-580444, you can pick them up for under $50 bucks on ebay. Thanks Shane. Do you think it would fit a 1/32 Hornet? It doesn't look like it ... I might just have to rely on time. I had a look on eBay and they have commercial ones, but they cost hundreds. I reckon I'll just let the clear coat cure for ages, there is plenty of other work to do on exhausts, landing gear, etc etc. Out of interest - I read up on dehydrators, and from what I can see they use temperatures around the 50 degree C range. Is that any threat to the styrene? JIm Good thing I had my shades on. Looking fantastic keep 'em coming Peter Thanks Peter! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeyforgothispassword Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Hi again Jim, No, my dehydrator would be lucky to fit a wing, let alone a full model. I have another option, its one of those big plastic boxes you buy at a dollar shop, plus a couple or 3 light fittings. My biggest version will fit a 1/32 jet, it has 3 light fittings, one on each end, and one on top. I use 40 watt globes, and it speeds up drying time nicely. Shane ClumsyDude 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClumsyDude Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 (edited) Thanks Shane, that's not a bad idea. I have a big box that I got from Bunnings, just to keep the dust off ... at the rate that I model, though, I seem to easily be able to fit in over a week curing time for clear coats. Filed the idea away in case I need it! So, onward and upward with the masking. I've sprayed clear on the reverse side of the horizontal stabilisers, which I won't bore you with, and haven't polished them yet (which I don't want to bore me with, but will have to be done at some point). Meantime, I've run into a head scratcher on the tails. I started out well enough, with a nice even coat of Gunze's insignia white. Rudder taped in place. I want to do the inside of the tails first as the positioning of that stripe is critical - plus it's much less complex than the outside of the tails, which will be the showpiece of the finished model. Here it is with the mask in place, and nice and straight ... looks ok, but for the fact that the mask isn't lying flat over the fairings at the top of the tail. And that's where I've run into trouble. I tried gently cutting the mask in situ, so that it would lie down nice and flat and then I could fill in the gaps with Tamiya tape. But that doesn't show much promise ... I knew I was going to run into some issues here. Would love some help from you all - what's the best way to tackle this? Hair dryer to warm the mask so it snuggles down? Some strategic cuts into the mask before I lay it on the model? Fortunately I have eight or nine per side (thanks Randy), knew I was going to need them! Thanks in advance. Jim Edited March 28, 2017 by ClumsyDude Kahunaminor, BloorwestSiR and F`s are my favs 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kahunaminor Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 (edited) Thanks Shane, that's not a bad idea. I have a big box that I got from Bunnings, just to keep the dust off ... at the rate that I model, though, I seem to easily be able to fit in over a week curing time for clear coats. Filed the idea away in case I need it! So, onward and upward with the masking. I've sprayed clear on the reverse side of the horizontal stabilisers, which I won't bore you with, and haven't polished them yet (which I don't want to bore me with, but will have to be done at some point). Meantime, I've run into a head scratcher on the tails. I started out well enough, with a nice even coat of Gunze's insignia white. Rudder taped in place. I want to do the inside of the tails first as the positioning of that stripe is critical - plus it's much less complex than the outside of the tails, which will be the showpiece of the finished model. Here it is with the mask in place, and nice and straight ... looks ok, but for the fact that the mask isn't lying flat over the fairings at the top of the tail. And that's where I've run into trouble. I tried gently cutting the mask in situ, so that it would lie down nice and flat and then I could fill in the gaps with Tamiya tape. But that doesn't show much promise ... I knew I was going to run into some issues here. Would love some help from you all - what's the best way to tackle this? Hair dryer to warm the mask so it snuggles down? Some strategic cuts into the mask before I lay it on the model? Fortunately I have eight or nine per side (thanks Randy), knew I was going to need them! Thanks in advance. Jim Great work matey, Probably cutting the mask to conform to the edges is the easiest way. I would suggest, as well as Tamiya tape, using a liquid masking agent, I use the Vallejo one, and fill in over the mask. It is easily worked and provides good coverage. Good luck and thanks for sharing. Regards, Edited March 28, 2017 by Kahunaminor ClumsyDude 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClumsyDude Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 Thanks Kent, I'll give it a go. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sluggo Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 I don't recall the color order without going down to the cut room but I seem to recall the center being red and the outers being white. Not that any of that matters. I'd cut them horizontally, toss the cut-offs and Tamiya tape over the contours.. There really is not going to be an easy out for that area. Have patience, you have plenty of material. Be sure you triple check to be sure the masking is seated before you spray and recheck while you are in progress. Worst case, the clear will grant you forgiveness if you have to do any touch up work. It looks daunting at this point but keep in mind that the white is down so all you are really dealing with at this point is the two edges the demarcate the red stripe. After the red is down you only have the two outer edges to deal with because you are covering everything up to paint the blues. BloorwestSiR and ClumsyDude 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 I'd agree with Randy's approach. Don't use the mask for going over the fairings and copy them with Tamiya tape. You may want to get some Aizu brand masking tape as it comes in 0.4mm width which allows it to follow curves nicely. I've used that combination in the past for masking. I don't know if it'll help much but I did a mini tutorial in my Spitfire build on how I work with masks. It starts about half way down the page. http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=61342&page=6 Carl ClumsyDude and Neo 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sluggo Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 I'd agree with Randy's approach. Don't use the mask for going over the fairings and copy them with Tamiya tape. You may want to get some Aizu brand masking tape as it comes in 0.4mm width which allows it to follow curves nicely. I've used that combination in the past for masking. I don't know if it'll help much but I did a mini tutorial in my Spitfire build on how I work with masks. It starts about half way down the page. http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=61342&page=6 Carl Marking the x on the masks in your tutorial is brilliant! I add registration marks to the masks themselves but there's still room for error. ClumsyDude 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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