dennismcc Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Nice work, like a lot of people I have one of those in the loft waiting it's turn, so I will be watching closely Cheers Den Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 (edited) Good start. I always did like the PCM pit treatment with a combo of resin, decent colored PE and nice decals. I will however, NEVER understand how or why the Eduard color PE sets can be so nice, and yet their colors invariably seem to be shades of incorrect all the time, across the board. My SU-30, SPAD ect, ect, had very funky colors to them. I know a lot of people dislike or even hate useing PE and/or hate the way it looks. I personally love working with PE. IMHO, the only thing PE doesnt represent well is round things that come out square or flat in PE. Ive found a good solution to this with things like wires is to replace any PE wireing with lead wire, and for things like knobs and levers, just a dap of the appropriate colored paint on the end of them lets the handle remain more thin and flat like the 1:1, yet the knob or button/handle is colored correctly and is 3 dimensional. Other larter 3D things are perfectly able to be represented in PE as stacking and gluing PE is common. Looking forward to more. Edited February 12, 2013 by Out2gtcha moksha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Very nice progress on the Spit. IP and interior look real nice. Keep 'em coming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moksha Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 Very nice progress on the Spit. IP and interior look real nice. Keep 'em coming Nice work, like a lot of people I have one of those in the loft waiting it's turn, so I will be watching closely Cheers Den Shaping up. Nice cockpit work. Sincerely, Mark Mark, Den, Peter Many thanks - much appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moksha Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 Good start. I always did like the PCM pit treatment with a combo of resin, decent colored PE and nice decals. I will however, NEVER understand how or why the Eduard color PE sets can be so nice, and yet their colors invariably seem to be shades of incorrect all the time, across the board. My SU-30, SPAD ect, ect, had very funky colors to them. I know a lot of people dislike or even hate useing PE and/or hate the way it looks. I personally love working with PE. IMHO, the only thing PE doesnt represent well is round things that come out square or flat in PE. Ive found a good solution to this with things like wires is to replace any PE wireing with lead wire, and for things like knobs and levers, just a dap of the appropriate colored paint on the end of them lets the handle remain more thin and flat like the 1:1, yet the knob or button/handle is colored correctly and is 3 dimensional. Other larter 3D things are perfectly able to be represented in PE as stacking and gluing PE is common. Looking forward to more. tnx Brian - yup PE colouring's a mystery given that such accuracy is present in the rest of the stuff. Totally agree re the look of PE-at least when I do it - "for square as round " etc and am starting to go for lead wire, solder etc-the dabs tip is one I'll nick-thanks ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moksha Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 (edited) Hi all. been raining all night so off to the shed I went. I decided to reinforce the tail wheel as the kit supplied one looked very weakly attached if the instructions are followed. Some aluminium tube tapped with a hammer to narrow one end superglued and puttied into the tail - seamless eh ) Then a little dry fitting-tail unit was ok, cockpit area showed up some more trimming to be done mostly around the seat/seat frame but I was pleased that everything more or less fitted While the tail wheel reinforcement sets I'm going to look at reinforcing the main undercarriage too-as the main legs are 1 weakish looking plastic 2 set into fairly delicate resin And make a start on the prop. 5 blades-woot -) take care - more later! Edited February 13, 2013 by moksha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark126804 Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Nice work brother. Like everyone else, I also have one and it was like #5 on the list, but Im being inspired, so its moved up to next in line. I guess the WWI group build will have to wait alittle longer (glad that ends in Nov). Keep up the good work. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 (edited) If you havnt already assembled the prop...............and/or model stuff like the PCM kit often that have UN-assembled props in them, see about investing in one of THESE. Available from John @ UMM-USA It works with 2, 3, 4 or 5 blade props and is reversible for either normal or reverse pitch props. Mine paid for itself in lost frustration the first time I used it on my PCM Mk 9 + Mk XIV conversion. Edited March 11, 2013 by Out2gtcha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Mine paid for itself in lost frustration the first time I used it on my PCM Mk 9 + Mk XIV conversion. Thanks for the tip Brian! I have exactly that combination in the stash, so I now know what I need before I start it. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 No problemo Kev. It really is a well engineered little thing. Solid billet aluminum, and well made. Just don't loose the little assortment of collars they provide for different diameters of prop shafts. The center section unscrews to flip over for reverse pitch props. Ive used that little thing on every single build since that didnt have pre-assembled props. The center also can be adjusted up or down for different hights as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 No problemo Kev. It really is a well engineered little thing. Solid billet aluminum, and well made. Just don't loose the little assortment of collars they provide for different diameters of prop shafts. The center section unscrews to flip over for reverse pitch props. Ive used that little thing on every single build since that didnt have pre-assembled props. The center also can be adjusted up or down for different hights as well. I have one as well. I got it for my Seafire build but that has contra props so we'll see how it works out. I do have a couple PCM kits in the stash too so either way, it should be worth it. Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moksha Posted March 19, 2013 Author Share Posted March 19, 2013 Nice work brother. Like everyone else, I also have one and it was like #5 on the list, but Im being inspired, so its moved up to next in line. I guess the WWI group build will have to wait alittle longer (glad that ends in Nov). Keep up the good work. Mark Cheers Mark-I reckon you won't regret getting stuck into this kit - it's a joy. There are minor fit adjustments to make, but nothing that dry fitting, sanding and more dry fitting cannot sort Mainly gratification though is that the kit does justice to a beautiful plane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moksha Posted March 19, 2013 Author Share Posted March 19, 2013 If you havnt already assembled the prop...............and/or model stuff like the PCM kit often that have UN-assembled props in them, see about investing in one of THESE. Available from John @ UMM-USA It works with 2, 3, 4 or 5 blade props and is reversible for either normal or reverse pitch props. Mine paid for itself in lost frustration the first time I used it on my PCM Mk 9 + Mk XIV conversion. Brian - excellent pointer, many thanks. I'm going to order one for sure. I'll probably go ahead with the Spit using toothpicks and willpower but the prop jig's certianly going to be used on my next build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moksha Posted March 19, 2013 Author Share Posted March 19, 2013 Progress has been very slow as work hectic but here are some terrible pics showing the closing up of the fuse, wing assembly to fuse et cetera. I used small dabs of CA for the initial rough "glue it into place" and then followed up with more CA where gaps appeared/welding needed . I then smoothed the joints-wing leading edges, wing roots, fuse seams with talc and CA. My first time with this and I love it. The talc was added sparsely if I wanted welding/strength and a ton more if I just wanted filler. Very fast to dry once on the kit, and very easy to sand with micromesh pads or wet n' dry. The fit of the fuse havles and wings to fuse was excellent. The large gaps at the wing roots I was getting when dry fitting initially, I got rid of by widening the fuse 1mm at the bottom with a bar cut from a Q tip (cheap? me? Damn right). Looks a bit rough below but the seams are now smooth - next steps fit externals like radiator covers and then prime... More pics later as I have the day off work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moksha Posted March 19, 2013 Author Share Posted March 19, 2013 Lumps and Bumps and a Canopy affixed..a couple of smaller things still to sand before moving on to main priming. I think I'll be settling on rb140 the first production crate as there are some large pics on the net I can use to get a feel for the weathering/lack of :~0 The marker pen's to aid sandning (shows up pock marks) -it's not preshading -) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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