Collin Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 Sat back down with my little experiment. Using some Neuberg-ebel Metallic Power I added some sheen and variation to different panels. Still a work in progress. Been looking through a bunch of reference pics from the 8th and 9th AF aircraft....seems the NMF of those aircraft was light sheen to almost (but not quite) flat. So I think I am going to use the above technique of a 1) Alclad base with 2) AK Metallic paste over that, 3) then some panel enhancement (graphite powder) followed 4) by a thin coat of Alclad Aqua Light Sheen. After I decal and do the invasion stripes...seal everything again with Aqua Light Sheen then enhance a few of the areas that should remain "semi-shiny"....if that is even a word. Cheers Collin MikeMaben and TenSeven 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 I like it !.....Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 (edited) Collin, I really like the NMF procedure you're following, specially the graphite powder. I've never tried that before. Where did you purchase it? My only issue is that in the after picture, your White Balance is off to the point that it's very hard to see the results and compare it to the before pic. I took the liberty of correcting the WB through Lightroom 6.1 Joel Edited March 25, 2017 by Joel_W Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Collin Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 Wow....the white balance changes really makes a difference. I'm not much of a camera guy (more point and shoot). I will have to play with that white balance-stuff on my camera. Cheers Collin Joel_W 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Collin Posted March 26, 2017 Author Share Posted March 26, 2017 Finished up the horizontal tails and elevators, plus the rudder yesterday. Today I tackled the installation of the clear plastic rod that will support the aircraft in the turn to STBD with a slight nose up pitch/slight deflection of rudder to the STBD, sort of a "slice" into an attack. After drilling a hole in the fuselage where I want to rod to enter: 1) I tape in the clear plastic rod. 2) Slide on a brass rod, cut to provide enough support of the inserted rod, that will actually act as a guide inside the fuselage 3) Build a foundation around the brass tube with cut up pieces of plastic stock using normal plastic glue (Mr. Cement and Tamiya Extra Thin green cap). 4) Glob together a bunch of 5-minute epoxy and slather it all over to include the brass rod where it enters the plastic foundation. 5) Of course through all of this I am test fitting the fuselage to make sure that I didn't create a fit problem with the assembly. 6) Tape the fuselage up and let it set for the rest of the afternoon....enjoy a dark beer or scotch. Cheers Collin MikeMaben, Out2gtcha and cib2265 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 Looks great! I think it will work out fine. If your ever so inclined, JB Weld works PERFECT for this kind of thing, as as far as I have ever experimented with it, does not get brittle nor flex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 Yes, your right Brian.....Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 Colin, Nice piece of engineering. Don't see much of a chance of the tube ever breaking away from the fuselage. One thing I'm curious about, the rod once in the sleeve will be able to turn so the weight of the aircraft will determine Just which way the nose will point. Have you given any thought to securing the shaft while inserted into the rod, yet be able to remove when you want to? Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Collin Posted March 26, 2017 Author Share Posted March 26, 2017 One thing I'm curious about, the rod once in the sleeve will be able to turn so the weight of the aircraft will determine Just which way the nose will point. Have you given any thought to securing the shaft while inserted into the rod, yet be able to remove when you want to? Joel The plastic rod to brass rod fit is friction tight, so the chance of it pivoting when the rod is inserted is very very low. Even with that, I will pinch the upper part of the brass rod every so slightly that will cause the clear plastic rod to seat itself and prevent the aircraft from rotating around the axis of the rod. Sounds like science...but actually it's just a sense I get when I test fit everything. It has worked on the 5-6 other "in flight" builds I have done. Cheers Collin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 The plastic rod to brass rod fit is friction tight, so the chance of it pivoting when the rod is inserted is very very low. Even with that, I will pinch the upper part of the brass rod every so slightly that will cause the clear plastic rod to seat itself and prevent the aircraft from rotating around the axis of the rod. Sounds like science...but actually it's just a sense I get when I test fit everything. It has worked on the 5-6 other "in flight" builds I have done. Cheers Collin Colin, Well thought out. Experience usually is the best teacher. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Collin Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share Posted March 27, 2017 Well who doesn't fall victim to taping all the bits together to get a sense of the build??? Test fit the wings and well....I just started taping everything else together and bingo....a diamond in the rough I hope. I'm holding it via the plastic rod explained above. I will slowly start gluing the fuselage together (tail section is drying overnight), and then the rest of the week will be spent cleaning up the fuselage seam and then carefully test fitting and gluing on the wings and horizontal stabs. Typical of these kits, you have to do some plastic cutting/shaving of parts to get a snug fit. Cheers Collin Shaka HI, TorbenD, cib2265 and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 rat tat tat....varoomm. Yea it works well......Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaka HI Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 Pretty sure everyone (who builds kits) does, Collin. In fact, it's the first thing I do! There's definitely a sense of motion even with the mock up! Joel_W and Out2gtcha 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cib2265 Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 THIS. Im sorry I missed this thread - but wow what a build! I do all...and I mean ALL my aircraft models in flight. I've got it down to a bit of a science now, been practicing/experimenting with different ways of posing aircraft. Using a clear acrylic rod is my usual go to option. What I do is find a piece of Evergreen tube that fits over the chosen rod diameter, I then place a piece of that inside the fuselage. That way I can slide the model on/off the rod base whenever I want. It takes a little bit of time to get the trim just right, but its a lot easier/cleaner option. e.g heres a 1/72 SR-71 paintmule using this method, the base is just a 1/16 figure base: Im also using this method on my 1/32 Wingnut Wings Albatros build, the tube went through the lower fuselage and rested against the cockpit back wall for a big banking display to the left. For the prop blur, the easiest way is to have a free spinning prop, and then turn a high speed fan on while youre taking a photo with a slow shutter speed.... OR put a motor in it...I have a couple experiments (using Tamiyas OOB prop action kits) on the go to do this. Keep going Colin! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 (edited) Pretty sure everyone (who builds kits) does, Collin. lol - Not me. Its an OCD/ADD thing. I do NOT take anything off the sprues unless Im currently going to work on it. I have done some test fitting like this is the past, but generally I do not, as I like things on the sprues until Im actually going to glue those parts. Edited March 27, 2017 by Out2gtcha Joel_W and Shaka HI 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now