BlueMax Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 Chris, MANY THANKS! I think I'll have to try your idea of a "throw-away" kit. By the way does this stuff affect the airbrush in an adverse way? I guess what I'm asking here is, what do you use to "clean" your airbrush after Future use? Thanks again, David (A.K.A. BlueMax) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted January 23, 2004 Author Share Posted January 23, 2004 Future is a bit thick, and can clog faster after a shoot. I only ever use Isopropyl Alcohol to clean my brush (Badger 150) but I've heard that ammonia cleans Future very well. I've never had the need though. One other thing on future. While it has awesome leveling properties, and is very forgiving of poor techniqe, it does best in bold coats. Don't mist it on. Misting can actually create some unwanted texture (like orange peel) if left to dry. Remember that a pool, or drip can be sanded, but the tiny bumps left by a misting coat turn into texture and are not desireable and hard to remedie. Cutting it may help to reduce this un-wanted side effect (and I am contemplating a 70/30 cut on my next ship). GL! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted January 23, 2004 Share Posted January 23, 2004 Other Future notes... I had a bad experience once. Future will react to some of the decal glues and especially decal solvents: turns white! I fixed it by using alcohol to clean the Future off, then re-applying in that area. Some others have had the same problem and found that another coat of Future will fix it. Because of this, many are recommending using Testors Metalizer Sealer as the best pre-coat for decals. Haven't tried it yet, but will on my next model. Here is the best Future FAQ website I have found yet: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rato Posted January 24, 2004 Share Posted January 24, 2004 I´d like to add that although it is fine to airbrush Future straight, consider thinning it with 91% alcohol. I generally thin it 50%-50% and there´s no need to apply a second coat. Thinning it with iso-alcohol will reduce drastically the drying time and yet keeps its rock-hard surface property. From my experience, the method also eliminates any risk of reacting with some acrylics like Gunze (many modelers have reported this problem, but I still think it is a problem related to non fully cured cammo coat). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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