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Rivets, Rivets, Rivets....

Ever done this?

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#16 Gazzas

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Posted 09 December 2017 - 11:43 PM

Another way for a consistent surface to work with could be, and I haven't done it before, but I've read about it. There's a method of cutting up the sprue from the same kit, and mixing it up with styrene glue which will form a thick plastic liquid., and you can work it how you want. This would be a huge amount of sanding, but wouldn't shrink over time, and would be a consistent surface to rivet and rescribe in.

I've done this before and it makes a great, very sticky and very strong substance that holds parts together well.  One downside is that it can become very stringy like the old Testors tube glue.

 

If you have trouble with seams popping when you are sanding, start gluing wings and bodies together with this glue and styrene mixture.  The other downside to this stuff is that it takes a fair bit of time to completely cure.  If I use it, I don't touch the model for over a week.

 

Gaz


​We don't have social skills.  We build models.


#17 mmaben

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Posted 09 December 2017 - 11:44 PM

For those of you who haven't noticed my other P-40 related threads, my model will hopefully look like this:

 

Since flush rivets are a simple circular gap between the rivet and the

surface, you'd need a jeweler's punch to replicate them accurately.

I've never seen a wheel type punch tool (tho that would be cool :speak_cool: )

so you'd have to do them one at a time.

 

Like:  How do you make raised rivets or round headed screws in scale?

 

Dry transfers like those available from Archer http://www.archertra...om/AR88001.html

or HGW http://hgwmodels.cz/...&submit_search=, Micro Mark sells them for trains but the HO scale 'might' work.

 

Have fun :popcorn:


Edited by mmaben, 09 December 2017 - 11:48 PM.

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I just like airplanes

 

Mike                        Smirnoffcat    RomanianG-2

 


#18 phasephantomphixer

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Posted 09 December 2017 - 11:50 PM

Won't you be using foil on this kit? You could do one of the prior suggested fillers, but not completely filled. Then when you use adhesive and foil, have the foil depress into each rivet slightly. Maybe keep the burnishing uniform so they turn out the same all over. Unless the Trumpy rivets are all bogus...


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#19 Gazzas

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Posted 10 December 2017 - 12:37 AM

Won't you be using foil on this kit? You could do one of the prior suggested fillers, but not completely filled. Then when you use adhesive and foil, have the foil depress into each rivet slightly. Maybe keep the burnishing uniform so they turn out the same all over. Unless the Trumpy rivets are all bogus...

Yes, I am using foil.  I'm going to try paint and Mr. Dissolved Putty(once it arrives) on a scrap kit.  Many of the kit rivets are just big and ugly holes.  They are the kind of holes that make the model best-photographed-from-a-distance.

 

There are words in the places that I learned about foil that caution against trying to foil over paint.  It's another concern.  Apparently the paint will roll-up under the pressures of the foiling process.  Now, whether that includes bits around the rivet holes, I won't know until I try it.

 

The biggest problem is my complete lack of experience with rivets.  Most of my foiled builds are 1/48, so I haven't needed to deal with them.  The Starfighter I tried to deal with the problem after foiling which didn't work satisfactorily.

 

So, I really appreciate the suggestions.

 

Gaz


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#20 Gazzas

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Posted 10 December 2017 - 12:45 AM

Since flush rivets are a simple circular gap between the rivet and the

surface, you'd need a jeweler's punch to replicate them accurately.

I've never seen a wheel type punch tool (tho that would be cool :speak_cool: )

so you'd have to do them one at a time.

 

 

Dry transfers like those available from Archer http://www.archertra...om/AR88001.html

or HGW http://hgwmodels.cz/...&submit_search=, Micro Mark sells them for trains but the HO scale 'might' work.

 

Have fun :popcorn:

Thanks for the Archer and HGW tips!  I have some Archer raised lines I used in a build about half a year ago.  They worked well!

 

I intend to order the RB rivet tool soon for the smaller flush rivets.  I've seen the Trumpy and other plastic riveters with steel wheels, and really don't want plastic.  The larger flush head screws will certainly require a fine punch...  and I haven't even considered ordering that tool, yet.

 

Thanks,

 

Gaz


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#21 Juggernut

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Posted 10 December 2017 - 02:04 AM

 

Many of the kit rivets are just big and ugly holes.

 

Hahahaha....you're right about that one.  If memory serves, we used to call the guy at Trumpeter who was responsible for the holes "The Mad Riveter" (not really knowing who was actually responsible).


Edited by Juggernut, 10 December 2017 - 02:05 AM.

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"You can always tell a pilot.... But you can't tell him much." Pat Malara Sr. (1925 - 1997) USAAC CBI, Owner/Founder, Riverside School of Aeronautics


#22 phasephantomphixer

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Posted 10 December 2017 - 02:10 AM

I like your neutral approach and easy attitude about it, surely there will be success!

Please keep us informed on your findings...


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#23 thierry laurent

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Posted 10 December 2017 - 05:20 PM

Sorry I meant Mr. Hobby Dissolved Putty, not liquid putty.
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#24 Gazzas

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Posted 17 December 2017 - 02:24 AM

Sorry I meant Mr. Hobby Dissolved Putty, not liquid putty.

 

Thierry,

   I have to thank you for this recommendation.  My bottle arrived Thursday.  I have used it on several occasions on an armor build and find that it has great adhesion, with very little shrinkage and sands easily.  I haven't tested it for the project mentioned in this thread as I am still waiting for my RB Rivet tool to arrive.

 

Best Wishes,

 

Gaz


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#25 thierry laurent

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Posted 17 December 2017 - 09:07 AM

Thanks!

I used it on various kits to fill rivets or panel lines and I have yet to find a better option. Please give us your feedback.
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