dutik Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 I am somewhat behind schedule. There is more putty and sanding to do than someone might expect. Fit of all large parts is great. Made by Revell, no doubt. But all the wings have inserts for air intakes. Even the horizontal tail has its own intake duct... Every insert needs to be blended in. The large intakes also have a gauge step. Front insert is larger than the "bump" at the wing surface. Well, Heinkel added larger intake ducts as the Owl evolved. Revell has made an "one fits all" wing with variable inserts. The wingside "bump" should be perfect for the upcoming A-0 kit with smaller intake ducts, but for this A-2/5/7 right now it is too small. OK, that is what putty and sanding sticks are made for. The tail is on, the fuselage insert blended in, the main wings are sanded smooth, but need more PE inside the UC bay. After a dryfit and balance test I decided to fill in some more lead. Added the remaining flaps and the belly tray on top for another check. Let's see what we have now: Watch this! It's tilting forward! Do you see the hole at the nose? This is where I drilled a hole to put more lead on target. Shot it whith some superglue once the cavity between nose cap and front bulkhead got filled up. Just a bit more of putty and sanding now. Also added more lead behind the cockpit and inside the ladder bay. The ladder will be shown in the "up" position, to save it from breaking off. Top view: Watch the paint jar below the nose to stop it tilting forward... Enjoy - dutik X15, Uncarina, airscale and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn M Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 now ya got it! mpk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Looking great! This is supposed to be a 'quick build'??? Cheers Alan mpk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennismcc Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Nice one, glad it's not a tail sitter because that's so annoying. Cheers Dennis mpk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutik Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 Yes. For me it is a quickbuild. Anything less than a month is And I still ponder if I should install some plumbing (or some more) into the main UC bays Regards - dutik mpk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutik Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 Well, as for the UC bays: Will add some "lookalike" major plumbing if modelling schedule allows to do so. Had an online look at some dozen finished builds, both Revell and ZM. All the UC bays are really plain. Even of builds were the modellers went a lot of extra miles to cut off and realign the engine gondolas and to superdetail the other compartments. ZMs kit comes with some more build in details, mostly the large tubes, but is still bare compared to the real deal. Photos of the real aircraft reveal a look that is close to a squid party: tubes and hoses and power lines all around, crossing, twisting, coming together and disconnecting again; not to mention the mixed in circuit boxes, oil filters, valves, shutters and othe stuff. We shall see. Regards - dutik Uncarina and mpk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 (edited) Looks great, Dutik! Another place to add weight is with the seats. Is there enough material to drill a hole in the bottom and add weight? Edited January 25, 2017 by Bill_S mpk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutik Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 I am going with resin seats. No space to add lead here. There will also be more styrene ahead of the wheels, while all the parts behind (except main UC doors) are in place, with center of gravity ahead even now. Talking about front cowlings with radiators, props and exhausts, canopy, front uc doors. I should avoid to throw too much lead wire into the main UC bays, but otherwise I am fine with the balance of the model. BTW, if building another one - I'd cut a 100 grams fishing weight in halves and glue it behind the rear cockpit bulkhead. Have there at this build just 45 grams installed (10+30+minor pieces). This and some Liquid gravity into to cavities beside the cockpit should do the trick for sure. Regards - dutik mpk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Dutik, It is looking great! I'm using Liquid Gravity in my ZM DO 335 build; that stuff sure is handy. I'm one of those guilty of not working extra hard on the undercarriage bays! I am planning to work on the ZM Uhu soon and your build is getting me fired up. Cheers, Tom dutik and mpk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutik Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 BTW, if you want to take a closer look into the innards of the He-219, look here. Regards - dutik Uncarina, Shawn M and mpk 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncarina Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Thanks! I forgot about this site. Bookmarked! Cheers, Tom mpk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn M Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 BTW, if you want to take a closer look into the innards of the He-219, look here. Regards - dutik awesome link! mpk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutik Posted January 28, 2017 Author Share Posted January 28, 2017 Seats: CMK resin seats. Good stuff. You also get 2 identical small part sprues, because you need 2 footrests. The second head armor, ejection handles and stuff is surplus. Handy just in case you loose or break one of the small parts. I went for strip styrene for the footrest and ejection handle at the back seat and replaced the ejection handle of the front seat with copper wire, after removing a bit of the resin behind the head armor. Way easier than "pointwelding" the handles to the protruding bolts. Painted the seats in different shades of gray. Less than 50 for sure Cushions were painted Dark sea blue (a black blue) with some malachite green highlights. The seatbelts in brown and aluminium. A final brown wash and done. The crossbar in my cockpit is somewhat misaligned. Sanded off some resin from the seatbacks to make them sit straigth in the cockpit. The resin backseat has no contack with the floor. A piece of styrene 3,5 mm thick did the job. The malachite is not that prominent afther the brown wash. It is just a flash artifact. Should look nice under the closed canopy. Some more bits and pieces to be added to the cockpit before sealing the canopy. Regards - dutik Bruce_Crosby and Paul in Napier 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutik Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 Coming closer to close the cockpit: Added some brigth red valves/grips/fire shutters that Revell missed. Revi and stick. Still lacking the given radar scope hood and a scratchbuikd second one. The armored glass in front was easy to fit: Ian told me that it is too large and sandig the bottom will help. Did so. Sanded off too much. Added a styrene crossbar on top of the IP to fix this. Lost the armored glass. Well, under a closed canopyy nobody will see anything except a very clear front window... Win-win Some more PE in the front UC bay, a few thingees at the stabilizers, the canopy parts and the fuselage is ready for masking and painting. Regards - dutik Paul in Napier and Shawn M 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutik Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 Cockpit done: Also added the last PE pieces to the front UC bay. Just some paint needed. Regards - dutik Shawn M, Paul in Napier, MikeMaben and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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