Jump to content

Paint compatability Q.


Koala

Recommended Posts

I've had advice that I can use Gunze acrylic clear coat over Humbrol enamels, prior to decaling. I've wrecked months of work before with incompatible paints, and don't want the same sort of disaster again. Can anyone reassure me that I'm not going to trash my current build by using acrylic clear over enamel paint?

 

Many thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'll be fine mate. Just ensure that the underlying enamel has fully cured before applying the acrylic clear coat. The general rule of thumb for painting order goes something like this: lacquer, enamel, acrylic. It's not set in stone, and I've applied enamel clear coats over acrylic camo paint before, but I wouldn't put lacquers over anything but other lacquers.

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Koala, Kevin's advice is quite sound.

 

Is that model the only piece of material in your studio?

 

How about preparing a test piece that you don't mind wasting and try whatever combinations strike your fancy?

 

I do that all the time whenever any material(lacquers and frisk are two examples that come to mind) that I use around etching is changed by the manufacturer due to "new regulations." Even new labels on a can of paint worry me anymore; might be a new formulation.

 

As Kevin mentions, make sure whatever you're coating over is well-cured.

 

IMHO, enamel well-cured will stand most anything. That's why it's hard to strip... :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats sage advice from both Kev and Fred.

 

I had a diobolical reaction with a Humbrol enamel that I sprayed with acrylic clear/thinned with Tamiya Lacquer thinners. I've also tried to strip paint with brake fluid and its almost killed the plastic.

 

urgh...I gotta get some Future...it seems so much simpler using that stuff.

 

Cheers Matty

Link to comment
Share on other sites

urgh...I gotta get some Future...it seems so much simpler using that stuff.

 

I does seem to be if you can get the genuine article. The so-called equivalents we have here are not the same thing at all, and behave quite differently. They've got ammonia in them for a start...

 

Kev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmmm...

 

The Future we have here in the US doesn't seem to have ammonia in it, but ammonia IS used for removng it. Done it - it's in the instructions on the back of the label(if you can read it through the bottle and liquid Future).

 

I have used Future as a non-wet/non-stick on my etching machine plexiglass doors(supposed to be clear...uh, huh). After a while it gets "cloudy," no doubt from exposure to the etchant drying. Removes with ammonia and a certain amouint of elbow grease(available in most homes' stores). :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...