Shaka HI Posted April 5, 2017 Author Share Posted April 5, 2017 Thanks all for your responses. I didn't really notice it until I started using a makeup brush to remove the dust that have accumulated on my builds from last year and was shocked to see the the Peashooter in the condition it was in. I was getting it "ready" as I've actually purchased a display case that should be delivered to me later this week... I gave it shot of Future -- straight from the bottle, per Joel's advise (nothing to lose at this point). I'll let this be for a few months to see what happens... I won't use Future for any future builds as I don't trust it. If you study the photo below, you can still see the cracks -- barely visible, but it's there. I might shoot another shot of Future much later if the finish holds... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 Shaka, Lets hope that it does the trick this time. Joel Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monthebiff Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 At the end of the day it is floor polish, its great for canopies but at the end of the day its not a paint. Tamiya Clear in lots of thin layers works perfectly. I personally don't want to risk spoiling a build that I have put a lot of money and hours in to with something that seems to give variable results just because its in a big bottle and its cheap! Regards. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel_W Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 the issue wasn't the Future/Pledge/Kleer, but the paint itself not fully dry nor cured being trapped under the clear coat. What happened to Shaka Hi's finish would have most likely happened requardless of what clear coat he used. And that's the issue here. there are members here who love Future/Pledge/Kleer and are world class modelers. I'm more then certain that we'll all in agreement that Chuck fits into that class with ease, and he's a major user of FPK. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 I use QuickShine as it does a good job and is quick to use - for me! I do like the Tamiya/Gunze clear acrylic varinishes though - just used the latter on the Mirage I'm finishing, rather than QuickShine. But I do agree with what Joel said above - in my experience it's allowing proper drying times that's key, whatever finish you are applying. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radub Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 I know for a fact that "drying time" between coats has nothing to do with the cracks. It happened to me! Have a look at these posts: First this: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=23256&page=13&do=findComment&comment=323092 And then this: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=23256&page=13&do=findComment&comment=324011 There was a "wait" of about two weeks between the time when the paint was applied and then it was dipped in Future/Klear. Believe me, Future/Klear disolves/attacks Tamiya or Gunze acrylics. If you use Tamiya or Gunze acrylics, then use nothing other than Tamiya or Gunze varnishes on top of the paint. In the past I also used Windsor Newton clear varnish over Tamiya and it cracked. Now I only use their own brand varnishes over Japanese paints. I have no idea what chemicals react between the two (and that is irrelevant!) but in my experience it is a bad idea to mix Japanese acrylics with Future/Klear. I never had any single bit of trouble when using Future/Klear with enamels or Lifecolor acryilics (my favourite paint). HTH Radu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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