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Revell Mustang


Bruce_Crosby

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Hi Guys,

 

Here we are again with another Revell kit.  There's been a lot of blather and hot air about this model but my take on it is that it's cheap, well researched and fairly well detailed.  I have the kits from Dragon, Tamiya and Zoukei-Mura  but this one is the only model I've got anywhere near completion, in fact the only other one started is the Dragon offering and that soon ground to a halt.

 

Revell's construction is very clever, parts fit is good, details actually very nice once you get paint on, the kit's pale grey/blue plastic tends to wash out everything until the paint makes it pop.  Yes, it doesn't have the detail of the Tamiya and Z-M kits but it looks like a Mustang.

 

39374025062_790e842fa4_c.jpgRevell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

The first things I worked on were the exhausts: solid pipe ends but a few minutes work with my Archimedes drill and a suitably sized drill bit and . . . .

 

39404103391_944a7c6ab4_c.jpgRevell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

The tyre treads were cleaned up with a file and scriber.

 

27626900359_2c68010f74_c.jpgRevell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

Wheel wells in MMP's take on Green Zinc Chromate 

 

25534077168_5a860a16e1_c.jpgRevell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

Pilot's seat with Fine Molds belts shaped and test fitted.

 

38696085514_cd46bb1f34_c.jpgRevell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

Starboard cockpit frame with the great decals

 

25534079438_66a1a290ff_c.jpgRevell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

And the port side

 

 

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And straight in with the next part.

 

25534091278_24de392e8e_c.jpgRevell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

Kit decals on the IP.  This kit is like my recent 262, a near as can be Out-Of-The-Box build.

 

25534086118_f04b31ea8c_c.jpgRevell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

More Cockpit bits.

 

25534091438_ce1bfe932c_c.jpgRevell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

Fine Molds belts painted and fitted. Identical to those in the Hercules and I saw lots of those!

 

39374037742_c2ef996e84_c.jpgRevell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

With the side frames added.

 

27626886739_402889cff4_c.jpgRevell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

Cockpit mounted, fuselage halves together and the wings on.  Hardly any filler, just a few smears and wipes of Mr Surfacer.

 

38696095784_2b6c0c0f9e_c.jpgRevell P-51D by Bruce Crosby, on Flickr

 

Wheel wells.

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Nice!  I intend on doing my Revell Mustang similarly, with the exception of a tiny bit of AM in the form of some belts, some AM PE for the IP, and some custom paint masks I made.    Looking great so far, and cant wait to see some paint on..............

 

Have you decided on a scheme yet?

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Great OOB experience.

 

Bruce, can you show us how you bent those FineMolds belts? I tried boiling water, kitchen hot plate, electrical bulb but each and every time only managed to break the parts.

 

Thanks,

Quang

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Fine Molds belts? It's a long answer!

 

First thing is care, lots of it. Second thing is more care! They are fragile and break so easily. The first set I ever made broke and I went to HGW for a while. But as you may know, they are a pain to put together.

 

You need to know exactly where you want each belt to sit, which one is a the bottom of the heap and which is at the top. Start at the bottom and work up.

 

So I use hot water, dip the individual belt in for a few minutes then take it out and start to bend it with tweezers, clips, round hose electronics pliers. The minute you can't work the ABS, shove it back in the hot water and carefully do a bit more. So each belt can take quite a time, going in and out of the water. Plus you've go to get the attachment points to line up properly. Some lap belts fix to the outside of the seat pan but lots to the inside face. Check your references! Carry on with all the belts making sure each belt sits properly both on the seat and to its attachment, but also in relation to the other belts. Then paint, detail and shade them. Then fit them in the same arrangement as you first curved them. You've bent them to fit a particular order, make sure you stick to it or you'll get bits of belt sticking up in the air!

 

Back to care! The attachment points and fastening clips are usually very fragile, but some practice and TLC and it will be ok.

 

Hope this helps!

 

Regards,

 

Bruce Crosby

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Hi Guys,

 

Who invented NMF? It's a real pain in the butt!

 

Got a layer of Mr Surfacer 1500 Black all over the model and started applying the new MMP metallic paints. Having used MMP for a while now I find I like their take on colours, sort of muted, not the Spanish “in your face†type of colours. But I'm new to the metallics.

 

It's been a mixture of good and bad. Their Chrome is absolutely stunning, build it up in thin layers direct from the bottle and it's easy peasy over a black base. However I managed to pool some of it, not a problem with MMP as it levels beautifully, but I managed to stick my finger in it! Total klutz moment!

 

This morning I tried to sand and feather the paint but the Gunze primer ripped and it doesn't feather well at all. So I masked the affected area, took off the paint and primer and then put on MMP's own Black Primer which is acrylic. Wish I'd used it rather than the Gunze, it sands and feathers beautifully. Top marks to MMP for a great primer.

 

Used MMP Silver on the wings, White Aluminium on the nose, flaps, ailerons and selected fuselage panels. Later on today I'll post some photos of the disaster (just about to meet my Lady for brunch) and the recovery.

 

It's not the best model in the world but it's my first NMF and I'm using it as a learning tool. I've got a second kit ready to be built, they are ridiculously cheap here in the UK. And after building Revell's 262 as Red 8, I'm definite going to build another one of those, fully loaded.

 

Regards,

 

Bruce Crosby

Edited by Bruce_Crosby
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Fine Molds belts? It's a long answer!

 

First thing is care, lots of it. Second thing is more care! They are fragile and break so easily. The first set I ever made broke and I went to HGW for a while. But as you may know, they are a pain to put together.

 

You need to know exactly where you want each belt to sit, which one is a the bottom of the heap and which is at the top. Start at the bottom and work up.

 

So I use hot water, dip the individual belt in for a few minutes then take it out and start to bend it with tweezers, clips, round hose electronics pliers. The minute you can't work the ABS, shove it back in the hot water and carefully do a bit more. So each belt can take quite a time, going in and out of the water. Plus you've go to get the attachment points to line up properly. Some lap belts fix to the outside of the seat pan but lots to the inside face. Check your references! Carry on with all the belts making sure each belt sits properly both on the seat and to its attachment, but also in relation to the other belts. Then paint, detail and shade them. Then fit them in the same arrangement as you first curved them. You've bent them to fit a particular order, make sure you stick to it or you'll get bits of belt sticking up in the air!

 

Back to care! The attachment points and fastening clips are usually very fragile, but some practice and TLC and it will be ok.

 

Hope this helps!

 

Regards,

 

Bruce Crosby

Damn. I thought it was gonna be a lot easier than that. Oh well, we'll see how it goes.

 

-d-

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Mission Model Paint (MMP). 

I endorse the above comments on this amazing paint. I bought mine at Newark model show last year and have been amazed by the coverage and durability. Tiger Hobbies are the U.K. importers and have began to supply a number of retailers. 

 

Great model by the way, I look forward to seeing more.

 

Bob.

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