SCRATCH BUILDER Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 Should have added use the glue stick also sorry , if the brims not work go with the raft, you can use the glue stick for about 2 or 3 prints then you need to clean the glass with water and re apply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunnarO Posted November 16, 2017 Author Share Posted November 16, 2017 (edited) Should have added use the glue stick also sorry , if the brims not work go with the raft, you can use the glue stick for about 2 or 3 prints then you need to clean the glass with water and re apply. Thanks, Rick! I'll try that on the next one. This one didn't work out either, but I got more of it... The deep V between the tailplane and the elevator is something I wanted to test. I think I'll leave the elevator attached, so I cut back the tailplane a little to make room for the part of the elevator that's inside the tailplane. I then will use litho plate as skin, and extend it over the V to lie flush with the elevator. hopefully it will look good when finished. Then I thought I could use the parts as a test bed for puting on litho plates. The really nice thing with the surface quality of the print is that I don't need to fill and sand anything, I just glue the litho plates on top of the print. Sorry for the glue mess, I said it was just a test... And then the tailplane skin over front part of the elevator. ok then, more fine tuning of the printer settings... Cheers Edited November 16, 2017 by GunnarO Bil, Cees Broere, Sparzanza and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCRATCH BUILDER Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 Maybe turn it upside down so the flat part is on the bed and the V is up{if were talkin about the same thing}, Also how do i get hooked up the litho plates, you have a link or something? Otherwise the plate looks great! GunnarO 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Barry Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 Looking great! GunnarO 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trak-Tor Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 Great progress! How do you make the rivets? One by one? Juraj GunnarO 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 Good show. Sincerely, Mark GunnarO 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunnarO Posted November 16, 2017 Author Share Posted November 16, 2017 Thanks guys! I got the litho plates on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminium-Litho-Plates-for-Model-Building-pack-of-10-A4-size/391925485031?hash=item5b40944de7:g:9IMAAOSwRvdZaTPC The rivets were done one by one on freehand with a ruler, so a little dodgy... going to use a finer rivet tool and a template with denser rivet pattern on the model. Got the rivet tool from UMM-USA: http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_22&products_id=1322 Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert Boillot Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 (edited) FWIW, and I still have to do a proper trial with mine, but the Silhouette Curio, besides the features (albeit more limited in size compared to the Cameo or Portrait) of cutting masks, has an embossing feature that could be useful for replicating regular rivets lines. Great technological demo. Love it, as the subject ! Hubert Edited November 16, 2017 by MostlyRacers GunnarO 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCRATCH BUILDER Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 Thanks for the Link Gun! GunnarO 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiwiZac Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 Then I thought I could use the parts as a test bed for puting on litho plates. The really nice thing with the surface quality of the print is that I don't need to fill and sand anything, I just glue the litho plates on top of the print. That is a brilliant idea! I have a 1/48 3D-printed kit, which may be a bit small to get away with plating, so I know from experience how time-consuming that surface is to sand. I like your test bed idea a lot! GunnarO 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaninaustria Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 I believe this build is a taste of what the future holds for our hobby! Amazing to see and a really interesting subject! Thanks for sharing Cheers Alan GunnarO 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 Some excellent stuff! I never imagined in my lifetime that someone could print out their own model. I have to ask: What is the difference between litho plate and a sheet of aluminum? Gaz GunnarO 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunnarO Posted November 17, 2017 Author Share Posted November 17, 2017 Some excellent stuff! I never imagined in my lifetime that someone could print out their own model. I have to ask: What is the difference between litho plate and a sheet of aluminum? Gaz Hey Gaz, They are basicly the same, except the litho plates have been used in the offset printing industry. The litho plates are 0,15mm and I got 10 A4 sheets for £12. Arts and crafts stores have some painted aluminium sheets with the same thickness, but they are £3-4 each. Pure Aluminium foil is much more expensive, a sheet of 0,15x150x150mm is £200. (at least the ones I found...) Cheers KiwiZac 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunnarO Posted November 19, 2017 Author Share Posted November 19, 2017 Moving along... First complete print with HIPS. After a LOT of trail and error, the first complete print is finished. It's not all good, I have some delamination of the layers. I know however how to fix it, so the top part of the tailplane is tuned in during the print. I think I have the settings ready now, will start a new one tomorrow to check my theories. The surface quality of the HIPS is remarkably good. Comparing to the first print I did with PLA, it's a no-brainer what to use... Adding to that, the HIPS is much easier to cut, file and sand and I can use my old Humbrol liquid glue Cheers Jim Barry, Cees Broere, LSP_Kevin and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCRATCH BUILDER Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Great stuff Gun! Does not look like you printer is enclosed, temp around the print could be fluctuating a bit, if you have a spot lamp or something you could keep pointed its way top keep the temp consistent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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