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Canopies unfit for Macrovision...help, please!


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#1 Gazzas

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 06:08 AM

HI Everyone,

     I've hit a brick wall.  It's with canopies.  I look at the work many of you do around the clear plastic with awe.  Yet I continually avoid close up pictures of the glass because my masked edges look horrible. 

 

I've used tape for masking.  I've used aluminium foil.  On the rare occasion I've used proper, paid-for vinyl masks.

 

I've tried working a knife around the mask before I lift it to keep the edges crisp, but it doesn't seem to work. 

 

When I start the clear pieces, I try to polish them up a little. 

 

Then I mount them on the model and mask. 

 

After that, I paint the interior frame colour on the outside in acrylic.  Artist acrylic in tubes.

 

Then I prime the entire model with a lacquer primer.  Either Alclad or Tamiya.

 

Then the model is painted with artist acrylics in the camouflage colour(s).

 

Finally, I matte coat with matte lacquer  by Alclad.

 

Once cured, I work a knife as deftly as possible around the edges, and lift the masks.

 

My problem isn't bleeding under the masks.  It's more of a choppy look to the framing.

 

Is there something in my technique or materials that lend itself to an rough finish?

 

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

Gaz


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#2 LSP_Kevin

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 06:23 AM

Gaz, I know this won't answer your questions directly, but I'm currently working on a book that deals with working with canopies, from start to finish. The bulk of the book will cover every conceivable masking method in comprehensive detail, but there'll be sections on removing them from their sprues, polishing, dipping, painting, affixing, and blending with the airframe. It's even going to cover working with vacform canopies!

 

OK, promo over!

 

As for something a little more directly helpful right now, my guess is your final paint layers are too thick, and potentially bleeding over the edges of the masks. Cutting through the paint layers won't necessarily solve the problem, as it's difficult to get a clean separation on a layer that's too thick.

 

Anyway, just an educated guess on my part.

 

Kev


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#3 Gazzas

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 07:03 AM

Thanks for the educated guess, Kevin!

 

Now...when is that book gonna be ready?


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#4 LSP_Kevin

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 07:11 AM

Now...when is that book gonna be ready?

 

I wish I knew! It's a 3-author project, with one contributor's material in the bag already. Unfortunately, much of the rest depends on me!

 

Kev


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#5 thierry laurent

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 07:54 AM

Indeed, that was also my feeling: too thick paint. Just try to use less paint close to the canopy edges. It you paint the canopies separately, you have generally less problems as you do not need all the coats (primer, clear and so on). If your plane had different camouflage colors crossing the edges, you can put it temporarily on the kit to paint such coats.


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#6 Kais

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 08:04 AM

Gaz,
If you are getting bleeding under the mask, try masking followed by a thin coat of clear before your usual approach.
That way , any bleed will be clear and less un sightly.


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#7 Cheetah11

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 08:08 AM

Hi Gazzas,

 

I try and put as few layers of paint on the canopy frame (on the rest of the model I also prime) and remove the masking tape as soon as the paint is touch dry. I use Tamiya tape. If the paint gets too hard, it tends to form small cracks as the tape is lifted. I think too many coats and hard paint might be the problem.

 

Hope it helps

 

Nick


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#8 Gazzas

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 08:51 AM

Guys,

    some great information.  Thank you.  I know that with my current method, each layer of paint is fully cured before the masks are removed, a process that can take several weeks depending on how often I can work on the model.  I'll definitely apply these lessons to my next canopy.

 

 

Gaz


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#9 DeanKB

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 09:04 AM

I would lay off the artists acrylic & switch to very thinned paint via an airbrush (I use Tamiya acrylics), building up layers, using a mask - Eduard's, preferably.

 

I find the tubed acrylic paints great for wood effects, but it's kind of "gloopy".

 

That's a technical term.


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#10 TonyT

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 10:35 AM

Don't spray towards the tape edge, spray over it towards the  canopy edge, when peeling back the tape pull towards the paint as opposed to away from it, it prevents the paint tearing. If it has bled I use a cotton bud dampened in water or isopropryl alcohol to clean it up.

 

Does no one use this stuff anymore?

 

http://www.hobbycraf...-ml/501773-1000


Edited by TonyT, 21 September 2017 - 10:36 AM.

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#11 Hardcore

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 11:36 AM

Don't spray towards the tape edge, spray over it towards the  canopy edge, when peeling back the tape pull towards the paint as opposed to away from it, it prevents the paint tearing. If it has bled I use a cotton bud dampened in water or isopropryl alcohol to clean it up.

 

Does no one use this stuff anymore?

 

http://www.hobbycraf...-ml/501773-1000

I got Maskol, but not for canopies. It is too hard to make it go were you want it <_<


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#12 BiggTim

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 03:41 PM

I use a liquid rubber masker a lot on uneven surfaces, and sometimes to fill in between edge tape on canopies if I'm not using masks. It doesn't form very sharp edges though, so I use tape or that.

 

I agree with the thin coat idea. I try really hard to keep the paint on the canopy frames very thin to avoid this problem, though I still have lots of issue with canopies in general. Easily my least favorite part of the job, right next to scribing.

 

By the way, I kind of prefer my canopies to be slightly unclear, as sacrilegious as that might sound to some. I have seen very, very few wartime aircraft photos where the perspex is flawless. It always seems to have slight crazing, or streaking, dirt, dust, fingerprints, or some distortion from the shape, and I like to see a little of that, just not a lot.

 

Tim


Edited by BiggTim, 21 September 2017 - 03:45 PM.

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#13 TonyT

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 05:55 PM

Or in the case of RAF bombers not there at all, the tail gunners on lancs often had the rear Perspex totally removed and put up with the cold, as seeing the night fighter first was often the difference between life or death

Edited by TonyT, 21 September 2017 - 05:56 PM.

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#14 chuck540z3

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 06:14 PM


As for something a little more directly helpful right now, my guess is your final paint layers are too thick, and potentially bleeding over the edges of the masks. Cutting through the paint layers won't necessarily solve the problem, as it's difficult to get a clean separation on a layer that's too thick.

 

Anyway, just an educated guess on my part.

 

Kev

 

 

I agree that this is likely the main problem.  Also, when the ragged edge happens, I use a bit of Tamiya polishing compound on a Q-tip and gently rub the rough bits out, being careful to not push too hard through the paint.  It really does work miracles sometimes.

 

Cheers,

Chuck


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#15 LSP_Typhoonattack

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Posted 21 September 2017 - 06:31 PM

Thin coats of paint, and low pressure usually does it for me.


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Kevin

I was going to procrastinate tonight, but decided to wait.

 

In Progress:

 

 

 

 





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