Rainer Hoffmann Posted August 11, 2013 Author Share Posted August 11, 2013 love your computer generated images - I wish that I had a program like that...Pencil and paper for me I'm afraid! Cheers Derek Nothing fancy, Derek, just Adobe Illustrator. No CAD involved here, but I'm really considering a not too expensive CAD program. Wow, making your own cross sections is quite impressive. How do you do that? Maybe you can make a set with correct drawings for Viggen and put them out for sale? /Stoffe Hi Stoffe, just some eyeballing and then draw it in a vector drawing program. Once I'm happy with the drawings I'll be happy to provide them to everybody who wants them (at no charge, of course). Cheers Rainer Greg W and Derek B 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 Nothing fancy, Derek, just Adobe Illustrator. No CAD involved here, but I'm really considering a not too expensive CAD program. Hi Stoffe, just some eyeballing and then draw it in a vector drawing program. Once I'm happy with the drawings I'll be happy to provide them to everybody who wants them (at no charge, of course). Cheers Rainer At this stage Rainer, I would be more than happy to use your drawings as my master drawings, as I trust them. Chers Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainer Hoffmann Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 (edited) At this stage Rainer, I would be more than happy to use your drawings as my master drawings, as I trust them. Chers Derek You are welcome to use my drawings, Derek, but DON'T trust them Since the gloss coat on my Viper tail has not yet completely dried and I needed a break from the computer, drawing all those crosse sections, I thought I could as well cut some styrene. So I started to build the "Extra Bränsletank" (Swedish is a nice language and there are some words that could almost be German...). This is the basic structure (sorry for the crappy pics, but I couldn't be bothered to do a proper lighting set-up): Looks sturdy, doesn't it? As an ex aerospace engineer I should pay more attention to weight and balance... The structure will be covered with styrene strips and then sanded into shape. I will make the nose cone frome epoxy putty. I plan to use a similar technique for the fuselage of the Viggen. None of the drawings of the tank I've seen so far show the correct configuration for the JA-37. It differs from the tank that all the other Viggen variants use in that it has four fins (instead of three) and furthermore there are two sets of different fins and they are not equally spaced around the circumference of the tank (is that understandable? My English detoriates as fast as my eyesight...) The reason for that is the cannon housing. The vertical fin of the original tank wouldn't clear the housing, so it had to be replaced by two fins on the side of the tank. By the way, the tank is about the size of a Spitfire fuselage in 1/48 th scale (shudder...), about 20 cm in overall length. Thanks for looking Rainer Edited August 12, 2013 by Rainer Hoffmann Greg W 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 From one aerospace engineer to another, well done on the Bränsletank (Swedish is indeed an excellent language - I'll have to learn it one day ). Without anything to provide a scale reference (unless you are like the rest of the alcholics here and use a beer can!), it is difficult for modellers to appreciate just how huge this thing is in 1/24 scale! Cheers Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark31 Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Nice start. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christoffer Lindelav Posted August 12, 2013 Share Posted August 12, 2013 Yes there are many Swedish and German words that are similar and there are many Swedish and English words that are similar as well, believe it or not. Great work on bränsletanken by the way. And Rainer, I think your English is better than mine. Derek, you really should learn Swedish I think. Then you can communicate with 9 million people restricted to a very small spot on this planet... /Stoffe Derek B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainer Hoffmann Posted August 14, 2013 Author Share Posted August 14, 2013 (edited) Small update on the "Bränsletank". I glued the skin panels to the frames, filled the seams with auto body filler and then did some serious sanding. Here is the Bränsletank after a first, thick coat of Mr. Surfacer 500 and then some more sanding: I hope, the knife is enough of a scale reference. At the moment the tank weighs in at 41 grams. That may not sound a lot, but it gets me thinking. I will have to initiate a serious weight reduction program for the Viggen (heck, this happens in the development of each and every new airplane, but not in such an early stage...). Anyway, some more sanding, especially at the rear end, and then it's time for primer and the weld seams (I'll try EricG's method of using Mr. Surfacer 500). The fins should be easy. But I need more information on the pylon. So far I have no pics or whatsoever. So any link,s, photos, drawings of the centerline pylon of the JA-37 would be very much appreciated. Thanks for looking. Rainer Edited August 14, 2013 by Rainer Hoffmann Out2gtcha, Derek B, Christoffer Lindelav and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 I'm not familiar with Eric's welded seam method using Mr Surfacer 500? - Where did he use this? (V-1?) Cheers Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 I'm not familiar with Eric's welded seam method using Mr Surfacer 500? - Where did he use this? (V-1?) Yep, that's correct Derek. I've seen this technique used before, but Eric's execution is first-class. kev Rainer Hoffmann and Derek B 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainer Hoffmann Posted August 16, 2013 Author Share Posted August 16, 2013 Yep, that's correct Derek. I've seen this technique used before, but Eric's execution is first-class. kev Yes, Eric's weld seems are brilliant. Me, however, I failed miserably. After three attempts I decided I'm not up to the task. So I'm pondering another method. I keep you posted. Cheers Rainer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 (edited) Yes, Eric's weld seems are brilliant. Me, however, I failed miserably. After three attempts I decided I'm not up to the task. So I'm pondering another method. I keep you posted. Cheers Rainer Just about anything 'squishy' can be used as long as it will set and can be either applied in reasoably straight lines evenly or along a taped seam and can be 'adjusted' if necessary with tools for that wekded beading effect. In the past I have used a thin string of milliput with a wet cocktail stick and a flat edged instrument screw driver blade, tube polystyrene cement and Araldite two-part epoxy to name only a few - there are other things that would work equally as well (one modeller on LSP has used the Tamiya two-part epoxy for the same purpose). Derek Edited August 16, 2013 by Derek B Rainer Hoffmann 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainer Hoffmann Posted August 19, 2013 Author Share Posted August 19, 2013 Just about anything 'squishy' can be used as long as it will set and can be either applied in reasoably straight lines evenly or along a taped seam and can be 'adjusted' if necessary with tools for that wekded beading effect. Well, I was thinking about these lines. But It was quite difficult to get straight lines of even thickness. So I reverted to Eric's method and I believe I now know what is important. In my first attempts I had tried to rush things and brushed on two rather thick layers of Mr. Surfacer 500. So I now brushed on 5 to 6 very thin layers and voila, the weld seams came out quite nicely. After removing the maskin tape I pressed the still wet Mr. Surfacer with my finger tips, leaving nice finger prints . I'm reasonably happy with the results, but as always, there is room for improvement. I have to tidy up some things, for example the brackets of the fins and some of the "fasteners" at the circumference of the tank. But then it's time for some paint. Thanks for looking. Rainer Greg W and Derek B 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Lund Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Looks great Rainer That auto filler - I've looked for some myself, but I'm a bit unsure what to get so can anyone point me to what it should say on the tube/can? I've heard americans talk about bondo, but that is not being sold here - at least not under that name.... ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainer Hoffmann Posted August 20, 2013 Author Share Posted August 20, 2013 Thomas, I'm using the rather cheap stuff from the local DIY shop, like this. Hope this helps. Rainer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Lund Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 Polyester feinspachtel - that's what I was after. I was afraid to buy something that would not only not work, but destroy the plastic or the project in general... Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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