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A good matt varnish?


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#1 Sparzanza

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 05:44 AM

I'm on my third Humbrol Enamel 49 matt varnish can that has turned into jelly inside after a few weeks/months and ends up clogging my airbrush. I thought it was just the pigments that I needed to stir extra thoroughly into the thinner inside the can, but I spent a good 10 minutes stirring, and while it looks good, it still messes everything up.

 

I thin and thin, and the varnish I pour into my airbrush cup looks good, but it still gives me these tiny blobs that gets stuck inside my airbrush and ruins everything. I don't want to experience this ever again. So what would be a good substitute?

 

Preferrably not acrylic, as it seems prone to cracking for no reason whatsoever. It needs to be able to go on top of enamel paints without making a fuss.

 

Thank you...


Edited by Sparzanza, 17 November 2017 - 05:45 AM.


#2 Maxim

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 06:33 AM

I like Tamiya, Gunze etc. Both really easy to apply. The Tamiya acrylic lacquer sprays are very good and do not harm  enamels or acrylics.



#3 blackbetty

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 07:58 AM

i just got a bottle of vallejo matt varnish for my fitter, should have some results next week (i never had any acrylic crack)


Edited by blackbetty, 17 November 2017 - 07:58 AM.

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#4 DrDave

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 09:47 AM

Windsor and Newton galleria flat artists acrylic. Clean up with water. Superb never had any issues on any surfaces

Edited by DrDave, 17 November 2017 - 09:48 AM.

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#5 Sparzanza

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 09:57 AM

I did mention no acrylics. I did have some Vallejo matt varnish that I just tried out, and I spent more time unblocking the nozzle with thinner than actual spraying.

 

Basically my airbrush is a piece of dung and I will never afford a better one.


Edited by Sparzanza, 17 November 2017 - 09:58 AM.


#6 DrDave

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 10:34 AM

it's the only acrylic thing that I use. Alclad flat never seems to dry
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#7 Bill_S

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 12:00 PM

I use Model Master right out of the rattle can. Great stuff IMHO.


I started building my shelf of doom, but I never finished it.

 


#8 Gigant

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 12:46 PM

I did mention no acrylics. I did have some Vallejo matt varnish that I just tried out, and I spent more time unblocking the nozzle with thinner than actual spraying.

 

Basically my airbrush is a piece of dung and I will never afford a better one.

 

Actually, it sounds like you are using "too good" of an air-brush for a simple task, that is an internal-mixing gravity-fed model.

 

For that I would actually use the cheaper model external-mixing type that siphons from a bottle like the Badger 250.

250.jpg

 

No stuff coming along inside of an internal mixing chamber/needle/nozzle to clog it.

 

I prefer the simplicity of the open-mixing types for both base coats and finish varnishes, and this one is available for less then $10.00:

https://www.amazon.c...n/dp/B001IE4HMY


Edited by Gigant, 17 November 2017 - 02:12 PM.

:innocent: Tom

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#9 Hardcore

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 12:58 PM

I did mention no acrylics. I did have some Vallejo matt varnish that I just tried out, and I spent more time unblocking the nozzle with thinner than actual spraying.

Basically my airbrush is a piece of dung and I will never afford a better one.

"it's not the airbrush, it's how you use it"
Annoying but true. All varnishes are good to use but I figure handling can give different result. Cracking, for example, is to me an indicating of too thick application. Also beware of insufficient drying time before next layer.
As for Vallejo watch out for using alcohol to thin it. Stick to water.

#10 Hardcore

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 01:00 PM

Actually, it sounds like you are using "too good" of an air-brush, that is an internal-mixing gravity-fed model.

For that I would actually use the cheaper model external-mixing type that siphons from a bottle like the Badger 250.
250.jpg
No stuff coming along inside of the mixing chamber/nozzle to clog it.

I prefer the simplicity of the open-mixing types for both base coats and finish varnishes, and tis type is available for less then $10.00:
https://www.amazon.c...n/dp/B001IE4HMY


That is quite a clever idea. Getting decent coverage is hard with a real dual action brush.

#11 1to1scale

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 01:09 PM

I did mention no acrylics. I did have some Vallejo matt varnish that I just tried out, and I spent more time unblocking the nozzle with thinner than actual spraying.
 
Basically my airbrush is a piece of dung and I will never afford a better one.

Clumping and blobs are caused by using the wrong thinner, acrylics will coagulate if you don’t use the right ones.
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#12 Sparzanza

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 02:26 PM

Clumping and blobs are caused by using the wrong thinner, acrylics will coagulate if you don’t use the right ones.

 

I will try water. Clumping and blobs was not the issue. It just stopped spraying randomly every 3 seconds, like the varnish dried too fast or something. My main gripe when shooting acrylics.

 

I thinned it with alcohol as I figured it would do a better job at thinning than water. But yeah as you and Hardcore suggested - water. I will try it.


Edited by Sparzanza, 17 November 2017 - 02:32 PM.


#13 smoke417

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 02:43 PM

I use Tamiya TS-80 Flat, right out of the rattle can.  


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#14 Gigant

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 02:44 PM

That is quite a clever idea. Getting decent coverage is hard with a real dual action brush.

 

IMHO, a lot of scale modelers are over-impressed by the "fancy-schmancy" high-end hardware shown off by so-called "experts".

 

Since I am not put off by the phrase "for beginners", here is the type I prefer to use the most:

 

31aem-46zKL._SR600%2C315_PIWhiteStrip%2C

...and it runs for about $13.00 on Amazon, and I have found it nearly impossible to clog:

 

https://www.amazon.c...s/dp/B0017TRRG8

 

Also, I stick with the thinner that is provided with the name brand paint, since it is sold on the same shelf as the paint itself at stores like Hobby Lobby. I only add alcohol to alcohol type acrylic paints like Tamiya's, and before I do I give it the "sniff test" to make sure.


Edited by Gigant, 17 November 2017 - 02:54 PM.

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#15 1to1scale

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Posted 17 November 2017 - 03:42 PM

If you use the Vallejo, the negatives are that 1)needs both a flow improve and a retarder, 2)dries slow, 3)NO ALCOHOL based thinner, use only their own thinner or distilled water.

 

The positives, it dried hard as nails and will not affect the finish or decals (no solvents)! With that being said...its not as flat as I want, I have tried many varieties of clear matte and so far the best I have found come from rattle cans as lacquers (Testors & Mr Color), however, I did pick up some Model Master clear flat and some Mr Color leveling thinner that I will give a go this weekend.


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