ade rowlands

Well I have had a major think think on the stash over the past month or so and have decided to sell off a majority of the stash and operate on a one out one in policy. Stash will also be limited to a max of 10 kits. In the face of things and photos shown in the past of other peoples kit accumulations I realise my cupboard shelf doesn’t qualify as a hoard or stash anymore but so be it. Current status 2 x Tamiya P-51D 2 x Kotare Spitfire Mk.Ia 1 x Airfix 1/24 Spitfire Mk.IXc Shoggz I could be sorely tempted to take one of those bubble top Typhoons off your list. I am liking 1/24 at the moment.

Managed 17/20. Surprised myself there. Still not buying that big 1/32 Lancaster though.

Outstanding Miloslav.

Hopefully when Laminar Flow Designs start putting out 1/24 Spitfires Zotz will scale up their decal sheets to suit like they reprinted the 1/32 sheet.

Indeed Max, all that parts are there apart from as you know, the bombs and the racks which I want to have on my future build. And of course the wings would need a new sprue for the relevant armaments. I’d be very surprised if other marks don’t follow though hopefully with not as large a gap as there was in time between the P-51D Early and Late kits.

Following along and taking notes for when they hopefully release a Hurricane II.C Trop I can do as a SEAC Bird.

I’ll second the VMS Products. I’ve used the Black and Clear glues and on the strength of how impressed I am with them have got some of their varnishes to try out. Another thing about their CA glues are they don’t seem to bother my sinuses like regular CA like Zip and other brands did.

https://www.rebell.com/tools/pincetter/clamps-for-modelling-x-3-see-important-info.html Is where I got mine from.

My issue with the DML inserts was always one of getting paint to stick to the damned things. Especially when some manipulation was required so get them to fit in to the required position within the cut outs in the wing halves. Paint would flake off in chunks no matter what implement was used to prod them in to place.

Thanks for that info Pete, N3194 falls in that N3160 - N3203 grouping in the exceptions list.

Well a few hours of study between coats of primer and whatnot and I’ve come to the conclusion after looking at many photos of Mk.I Spitfires in the 1939-1940 time frame that the A and B schemes were only applied to certain Serial Numbers is just patently not true it may have been the intention at some point to implement that rule but I’ve seen enough in my searches of odd number serials in A and B schemes and Even numbers likewise in both schemes to decide that Spitfires seem to have been painted in both, regardless of serial. Something along the line of Dave felt like painting A schemes that day at work and maybe B schemes after his mid afternoon Tea Break or was possibly waiting for some masks to come in to stock at Hannants. I see a B scheme in the 2 photos I can find of N3194 so that is what I shall go for.

Working on my Kotare Spitfire and plan to do this scheme using FunDekals. I can find only 2 photos of this Spitfire, both after being set alight by Bushell on being shot down. To my eye it looks like it’s scheme B of the 2 known schemes. Looks like a big Green Splotch on the Rudder which is in that position for scheme B. However, where I’m coming to grief is information on which scheme for Odd and Even ending serials, I’ve found various threads saying A for odd and B for even and then A for even and B for odd. However the 2 photos I’ve found of this aircraft look like scheme B to me as I said so I guess I’m looking more for confirmation that I am seeing it correctly from the 2 photos to be found in the FunDekals instructions and also available through a Google search for N3194 and then it really doesn’t matter regarding the A and B systems odd or even. Thanks in advance. Now back to the shed to do some priming. Link to instructions which also show scheme B. https://www.dropbox.com/s/9pa5rmtii61nth3/FD32014_Inst.pdf?e=1&dl=0

I’m waiting for the Reskit Printed Landing Gear and Seamless intakes (still showing as in development when I last checked) before mine works its way to the top of the pile.

Do you use a quick release connection between the airbrush and hose? I too use the same Iwata as you and haven’t used it in nearly a year for various reasons, mainly a lack of feeling like building anything. But having started a Kotare Spitfire the bug has bitten again so out came the airbrush gear. Is as having all sorts of air supply issues through the Airbrush, stripped, cleaned, total strip down, liberal soakings of Thinners and cleaners but still the issues of weird air supply. I knew it wasn’t the hose or compressor as my cheap Sparmax Airbrushes (which I find perform just as well as the Iwata at a fraction of the cost £38 from Plaza Japan, and the spare parts are a fraction of the cost too) I use for varnishes and metallics had no problem. Turns out the quick connect connection I had screwed on to the bottom of the Iwata was at fault. The Washer had gone bad and perished/split. Simple cheap fix. But yes, I too was ready to condemn the Iwata.

I wouldn’t complain if someone like ICM produced a Bubbletop Typhoon.