chuck540z3 Posted February 13, 2018 Author Share Posted February 13, 2018 (edited) Nice progress there Chuck. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do to the engine. If you check the top right box of step 43, it shows you the holes to be drilled out for the pipework. I missed the cutouts in the circular part of the wheel bays on my first Spitfire so I can understand how it happens. Carl Thanks Carl! I bet I looked at that page 20 times and couldn't see the forest for the trees. My only excuse is that the diagram is faded while all the other diagrams are dark grey, so it doesn't jump out at you. I don't recall having the same problem with my Mustang build, so it must be more obvious in those instructions. I have edited my prior post accordingly! Cheers, Chuck Edited February 14, 2018 by chuck540z3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ax365 Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Good morning Chuck. Sorry that I'm a day late and a dollar short to your latest project. What a great memento to your Uncle Will and a fine Lancaster build as well. Your work on this Spitfire has been terrific. I applaud your attitude of working smarter, not harder when it comes to details that won't be seen. That should help you tremendously. As I've said before, I really appreciate your attention to detail as it shows in the finished product and it give the model that added 'pop'. I'll continue to follow along to see how this masterpiece turns out. Mike chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunkyZeit Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Nice Chuck! Beware, trying to fit ignitions behind the exhausts is nearly impossible. I'd give that all a test fit before you commit to paint. Justin chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenshb Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Yep, the bottom of the exhaust shield needs to be thinned to the point where you can see daylight through it, and even then, the leads need to be angled down a bit to make them go together. Jens chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 Chuck Incredible work as always with nothing left undone. over the years, I've always admired you abilities to research nearly every inch of the aircraft and then replicate them on your build. The Spitfire is holding true to course and a gem to follow. Keep 'em comin Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 (edited) Too late to do anything now, but I would mention for others, the seat back leather goes over the seat back and isn't inset into it, see http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/ff321/taylortony/Spitfire%20MKx1x/X1XSEAT1.jpg http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/taylortony/media/bWVkaWFJZDo1NDg5MzkyOQ==/?ref= simply stunning work Edited March 5, 2018 by TonyT chuck540z3 and Lothar 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zaxos345 Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 (edited) Chuck, I have just run into this Awesome build so far!!! I really love your way of working and i know for sure that i am also going to enjoy this one!!!! John Edited March 5, 2018 by zaxos345 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomber_County Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Chuck, 14 pages in and I've only just come across your build............man where have I been...... Stunning as ever, I need a big spit in my life........hitting follow now.. chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 Thank you everyone for your very kind comments- and suggestions below! Nice Chuck! Beware, trying to fit ignitions behind the exhausts is nearly impossible. I'd give that all a test fit before you commit to paint. Justin Yep, the bottom of the exhaust shield needs to be thinned to the point where you can see daylight through it, and even then, the leads need to be angled down a bit to make them go together. Jens Thanks guys, you just saved me a ton of work that would be wasted under the exhaust shield. I was going to make some spark plug wire connectors, but not any more! They would be in the way and hidden anyway. Too late to do anything now, but I would mention for others, the seat back leather goes over the seat back and isn't inset into it, see http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/ff321/taylortony/Spitfire%20MKx1x/X1XSEAT1.jpg http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/taylortony/media/bWVkaWFJZDo1NDg5MzkyOQ==/?ref= simply stunning work Unfortunately Tony, you are totally correct! I was thrown by the seam at the edge of the Barracuda resin seat that looked like the end of the leather, but it's really just the end of the quilted portion of the seat. I'm in very good company, however, because three different builds of this kit in Brett Green's book did the very same thing (Page 44, 56 and 71)! I'm glad you pointed this out for others to paint this seat correctly. Good thing the back of the seat is hard to see. Now a bit of an update- which really isn't much. I was gone for two weeks getting some Mexican sun and now work has really taken over my free time, so I haven't done much modeling lately. This has given me some time to reflect on what is important and what isn't in this build and as Mike (ax365) said above, my focus will be on "working smarter, not harder when it comes to details that won't be seen". Thanks Mike, I really like that quote, because I have been very guilty of not doing that in the past. My Merlin engine, for example, will look quite detailed with lots of plumbing and electrical additions, but not so much that it will bog down the build with stuff very few would notice. Cheers, Chuck Uncarina and FunkyZeit 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vandy 1 VX 4 Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 Welcome back Chuck what part of Mexico did you go? chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dpgsbody55 Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 Hi Chuck. I'm building a Tamiya Spitfire as well at the moment, and have reached the engine build stage. Having read a few comments about adding detail, I've decided that I will build the engine mounts and firewall first so that I can check the fit of any add on extras I'd like to fit. Hopefully that way I won't run into difficulties with these extras fowling other parts, as well as wasting time on stuff I can't see. I'm fairly certain that I'll be adding the top set of plug leads, but not so sure about the ones on the engine sides. Cheers, Michael chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck540z3 Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 Hi Chuck. I'm building a Tamiya Spitfire as well at the moment, and have reached the engine build stage. Having read a few comments about adding detail, I've decided that I will build the engine mounts and firewall first so that I can check the fit of any add on extras I'd like to fit. Hopefully that way I won't run into difficulties with these extras fowling other parts, as well as wasting time on stuff I can't see. I'm fairly certain that I'll be adding the top set of plug leads, but not so sure about the ones on the engine sides. Cheers, Michael Sounds like an excellent plan Mike. I'm doing a bit of that myself, but I do know of many things I can still do to the engine without worrying about clearance or whether of not you can see any of it. The top and much of the rear is totally exposed, so the upper electrical conduit and plug leads can be seen fairly easily, but forget about the side plug leads, since you'll be lucky to get a wire into the plug holes as it is, much less a plug cap. I'm going to be using lead wire, so it is very flexible and can crush a bit if required. Cheers, Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerhard Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 Mind blown, nuff said. chuck540z3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Buddee Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 (edited) Hi Chuck, I'm not sure how far you've got on your Merlin but I can tell you that if you add the ignition wires on the sides of the engine they WILL be visible at the bottom end where they exit the ignition conduit. At the top, where they enter the cylinder head they disappear altogether because of the exhaust shield. That's why I simply inserted my lead wire leads in to holes drilled in to the sides of the cylinder heads. You can just make out the ignition leads below the exhaust stacks. As well, just about everything you add to the engine and supercharger will be very visible. There's a lot of empty space around the Merlin and between it and the firewall. Unless your added details are over scale you shouldn't have any issues with fouling. The only place I had issues is when I rebuilt the lower air cleaner assembly. It made the baffle plate that sits above the air filter, which prevents engine oil from leaking in to the air cleaner assembly, a very tight fit. Of course test fitting everything as you go along goes without saying. You'll also want to add the oil filler neck and it's brace to the oil tank below the engine. Man, it's all starting to come back to me now................ Have fun my friend! Cheers, Wolf Edited March 11, 2018 by Wolf Buddee F`s are my favs, Vandy 1 VX 4, Rocat and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonH Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 Yep, it's a tight fit but I built my engine with extras scaled from drawings and EVERYTHING fitted. That is a testament to the accuracy of Tamiya and surprising considering the compromises that kit manufacturers have to make simply to get something to fit together. Anyway, I am going to enjoy watching this engine take shape. Shaka HI and chuck540z3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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