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WnW OOB Lozenge decals


Out2gtcha

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All I can add is that WNW's instructions make a convincing case for most D.VII's lozenge being overcoated with a brownish glaze in the field.  They include some color pics of the actual fabric.  I applied the kit decals and then sprayed them with a diluted coat of brown.  I'm happy with the end results.

 

 IMG_6053_zps138ef40d.jpg

 

IMG_6108_zpsd6af99cd.jpg

Edited by John Irwin
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The only piece of the puzzle left for his mount were which lozenge decals to use, and thus thread has given me confidence to use the OOB WnW decals oversprayed with a highly deluded mix of neutral buff

 

Some of my friends, think I'm highly deluded.

 

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All I can add is that WNW's instructions make a convincing case for most D.VII's lozenge being overcoated with a brownish glaze in the field.  They include some color pics of the actual fabric.  I applied the kit decals and then sprayed them with a diluted coat of brown.  I'm happy with the end results.

 

 

 

 

 

I wish I had seen this for my builds.  Your's looks so much more convincing than mine.  I really like it

 

 

Ron

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Guest Clunkmeister

I disagree, Ron. The brown was applied in the field using tinted varnish. Not all machines got the treatment. The bright loz is factory fresh. And remember, these things were throwaway equipment. Well, maybe not German stuff as much as the Brit fighters.

Fokker built high quality well built aircraft compared to Sopwith...

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I disagree, Ron. The brown was applied in the field using tinted varnish. Not all machines got the treatment. The bright loz is factory fresh. And remember, these things were throwaway equipment. Well, maybe not German stuff as much as the Brit fighters.

Fokker built high quality well built aircraft compared to Sopwith...

I don't have them handy but the WNW's instructions (IIRC) made a convincing case that the brown glaze was applied to most D.VII's, aside from early machines.   I'm by no means an expert but most of the pics I've seen of actual machines, that are of decent clarity, seem to show a subdued loz.    I've seen pictures of factory fresh D.VII's that appear to be toned down, so I'm not certain it was just a random field applied thing.  As always, there will be many exceptions to the rule.  A fascinating subject for sure.   With regard to the kit loz, I too think they are too bright and much prefer the aftermarket alternatives.   Had zero problems applying the kit decals though. Went down quite easily with a bit of setting solution and some patience. 

 

Edit - Here's a link to the WNW instructions.  http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/productdetail?productid=3079&cat=4  Got some nice pics present.

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Guest Peterpools

Hi Brian

Being a newbie to WNW and their Lozenge decals for the Roland, my observations are strictly based on application and how they are looking so far.

Decals are by Cartograf, so the quality is top of the line. They lay down like skin and with some Micro Set and Sol, conform to the lumps and bumps with no issues.

I started with the lower wings and really didn't understand what the dotted lines and arrows actually meant in the instructions, as the decals fit the wings perfectly. Rib tape was easy, just takes some time.

The upper wings I discovered, the decals needed to be cut and applied from leading to training edge to fit. I'm half way though and no real issues. The Roland for me is my learning curve, so I'm noting all my mistakes on where I went wrong and what the proper way to go should be.

Color wise, the Lozenge decals are bright and seems to replicate a newly painted aircraft. I'm not a weathering guy so they are perfect for my style but may not be correct for in service aircraft.

Peter

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Brian, here's an example of the WNW Lozenge decals applied on my Roland base plate, without the use of paint to tone it down.

 

g3bujbxh.jpg

 

And afterwards, with the use of Tamiya XF-27 Black Green, which was heavily diluted.

 

pvj4uZLh.jpg

 

Same decals, but a completely other appearance, just to show you that their are no rules connected to the use of WNW decals.

 

Greetz

 

Danny

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Brian!

okay lets see....

Bad? not really...they are a bit strong and vibrant to my taste... what you can do if you don't plan on spending on the cookie cut Aviattic lozes looks like you have two options.

First would be to tone them down, and it works a treat. i usually post shade with tami smoke etc, then a good oil dot fading and satin coat works a treat...

second route you can go down on is.... well since you have the Silhouette plotter i could send you the 4 and 5 loz templates i have made for my Silhouette plotter and you can get them airbrushed on... i warn you this actually is quite an andeavour in time and effort but the results are also quite spectacular...

Let me know if you want the lozes as a cut file my friend!

and looking forward to your build!

 

Karim

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Guest Peterpools

Guys

Keep the comments and info coming - I'm learning a ton

Peter

Edited by Peterpools
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The cool thing about this learning process, is the wide-open interpretation not only of photos, but what suits each builders eye.

 This is sort of like trying to define the "typical" Sherman tank from WWII. Just when you think you really know the subject, someone shows up with a new pic...

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