Guest Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 The instructions refer to it as a spring. What its function is, I have no idea, other than to return the rudder to the neutral position? it looks a bit like a shock absorber. Maybe with internal spring ?............Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.Wolf Grant Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 (edited) Knew it, told you so .. cracking build so far. That wood and the worn IP is superb. Didn't know Gen. George Patton flew planes, must have left one of his revolvers in your kite. Grant PS: I agree with Seiren01, James H's part build is very impressive as is the base it's sitting on Edited November 19, 2012 by Obant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 Thanks for all the kind words gents............. One thing I couldn't figure out, what's the rod protruding from the rudder pedals? has no cables or hoses attached to it from all I can tell in the instructions The instructions refer to it as a spring. What its function is, I have no idea, other than to return the rudder to the neutral position? Yes, I too gathered that from the instructions. The "spring" is quite lamely molded comparatively speaking, so Ill be replacing that with an old fashioned light bulb filament. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 Brian Awesome progress on the interior components. Really into your wood grain effect and am trying to figure out exactly how you did it , so I can incorporate into my WNW builds. Keep 'em coming Peter :popcorn: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ripaman Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 HAHA! Thanks guys............and yes, I sincerely hope I don't go crazy with this thing..................Im hoping I might actually like rigging; maybe. Question for those in the know, and if needed might even place this as a separate thead but wanted to know....... What color WAS the rigging back then, silver (ish) as metal cable might be......or darker.....lighter? Thanks in advance, Hi Brian, You ask what colour was the rigging back then, so I found some pictures of a Sopwith Tri-Plane which I took when visiting the Museum at the Calgary Airport and I would think they are silver?? Here are the pictures, Hope it helps. Regards Richard Zero77 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Buddee Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 (edited) Great pics Richard! Love the details on the Clerget engine including the double spark plug set up. Didn't realize they had that. Brian, As far as the colour of the BSF wires, I just received Radu's RB Productions flat wires and the instructions indicated that they were finished in a gunmetal colour. RB's flat wires look like they're nickel plated and he suggests coating them with a "smoke tinted" clear varnish. I hope I haven't confused the issue further............ By the way, fantastic work so far. Thanks for the "heads up" about having to drill holes in the seat support frame for the rudder control cables. I've been studying the instructions and when I saw your post, I thought "oh yeah". What are you using for brass paint? Cheers, Wolf Edited November 20, 2012 by Wolf Buddee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted November 20, 2012 Author Share Posted November 20, 2012 (edited) Brian Awesome progress on the interior components. Really into your wood grain effect and am trying to figure out exactly how you did it , so I can incorporate into my WNW builds. Keep 'em coming Peter :popcorn: Thanks Peter, very kind of you..................... re: the wood grain effect, Ive probably read 4 or 5 different ways of doing wood. For me personally, I like the slightly darker/warmer wood tones, and dont really like the super faded lighter/whiter looking wood effects. So, I went with the acrylic and oil method. In this case, I applied a layer of XF-59 and let that dry. Then I followed that up (for this particular piece anyway, but on other parts I varied the color of the oil paint like burnt Sienna) with some burnt Umber oil that I thinned with Japan Drier........................then I dabbed that color on with a sponge in a random pattern. and let to set for 10 -15 min. After the oil paint set for 10 -15 min, I took a wide flat dry brush, and applied the grain by sweeping strokes in the same direction in a random manor, varying my stroke a tad as I went. After that I took a couple super smal blobs of oil paint and put a very small drop in a couple random places on the wood, then took a pointy sharp toothpick and made spirals with them, to try to simulate some knots in the wood, then let that dry for another 10 -15 min, then blended all of that together again with the wide dry brush again. HTH Hi Brian, You ask what colour was the rigging back then, so I found some pictures of a Sopwith Tri-Plane which I took when visiting the Museum at the Calgary Airport and I would think they are silver?? Awesome pics Richard! Thanks a bunch...............................I kinda figured after the responses I got from posting the same question in the general section, that one could go with a black/gunmetal color, and on some DH pics Ive seen it actually looks like there are two different colors of rigging, a steel light color on the tail planes, and a dark/black looking color for the support wires on the wings. Im thinking if I can do it, im going to try to go for an overall darker steel looking color. By the way, fantastic work so far. Thanks for the "heads up" about having to drill holes in the seat support frame for the rudder control cables. I've been studying the instructions and when I saw your post, I thought "oh yeah". What are you using for brass paint? Thanks for the kind words.................. To tell you the truth Wolf, I just lined up the rudder cables by line of sight, and to my eye, they passed right through (as well from looking at WnWs cockpit wiring diagram) the seat support frame, so I just drilled 4 holes in the two braces, and weathered each hole with a bit of the worn wood look. As for the brass paint, normally im strictly an enamel guy, but for this, because of WnWs recommendations, I went acrylics...................kind of regretting it, as WnWs recommendation for the non-bleached CDL didnt look right to me at ALL, and was way too gray. I found a great CDL match in MM enamels and also found a great brass color from them too. I used MM "brass" enamel for all of the brass detail work Edited November 20, 2012 by Out2gtcha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Paul Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 Looking good Brian! Keep at it! Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 Brian Thanks for the wood grain info; much appreciated. I'm finding it a bit easier to apply the base wood color, let dry, then clear gloss(Future or Glosscote) then the oil for the wood grain. I'm hoping you went the gloss route and just didn't mention it. Super work on the interior/cockpit details. Peter :popcorn: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted November 20, 2012 Author Share Posted November 20, 2012 Thanks for the wood grain info; much appreciated. I'm finding it a bit easier to apply the base wood color, let dry, then clear gloss(Future or Glosscote) then the oil for the wood grain. I'm hoping you went the gloss route and just didn't mention it. Hrmmmm...........no sry Pete, didnt use any clear coat. I found using the darker oils with no clear coat kind of "stained" the lighter initial wood color, which is kind of what I was after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Thanks Brian Now I have to re-think the procedure. Yours sure looks mighty good. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Hrmmmm...........no sry Pete, didnt use any clear coat. I found using the darker oils with no clear coat kind of "stained" the lighter initial wood color, which is kind of what I was after. From my limited experience, Tamiya acrylics (not gloss coated), will easily stand up to thinners and oil paints,... for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted November 21, 2012 Author Share Posted November 21, 2012 From my limited experience, Tamiya acrylics (not gloss coated), will easily stand up to thinners and oil paints,... for a while. Yep, the XF 59 withstood the application (and sometimes re-application) of the oil paint and Japan drier mix quite well. I definitely think acrylics have their place, as in this case they worked perfect for the wood effects. I would likely only use acrylics for overall application in this same manor, IE if I was putting together an all wood fuse Albatros or the like. I found a satisfactory CDL color match in a MM enamel color, along with an enamel equivalent of PC.10 I like. So then its on to try to replicate the "see through" look of the 1:1 fabric wings. I have a technique in mind for this that while not 100% accurate to what the real thing is, its a good looking result that conveys the see through appearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted November 21, 2012 Author Share Posted November 21, 2012 A nice photo of the box cover would be nice for the database, hint, hint. Would the first one I posted work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted November 21, 2012 Share Posted November 21, 2012 Would the first one I posted work? Yep. (Apparently I overlooked it the first time around.) If you can e-mail that to Kev, I'm certain he'd appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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