1to1scale Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 That is some incredible painting, looks very real Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckD Posted October 17, 2017 Author Share Posted October 17, 2017 Awesome, thank you!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 sublime painting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 The tonal consistency of your painting is remarkable to me. What paints are you using?  Thank you. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckD Posted October 18, 2017 Author Share Posted October 18, 2017 Thanks. Base coats were done with Mr Paints shot at about 12 PSI over a black primer base of Mr Surfacer 1500. The detail work was done exclusively with Vallejo paints from their model color and panzer aces lines. sandokan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiwiZac Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 I forgot to mention, I love your work on the cockpit! I was so focused on trying to share the Hendon photos I completely forgot. I'm enjoying watching this come together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckD Posted October 23, 2017 Author Share Posted October 23, 2017 Hi, everyone. Back with another update. I asked my wife earlier this week if I could have a modeling day this weekend, since I hadn't had much in the way of bench time. Happily, she was cool with it, so I started around 8am this morning and worked on and off - mostly on - throughout the day today until now. That said, I was able to make quite a bit of progress.   After a grand total of 31.3 labor hours, here is the current state of affairs:  Cockpit is lightly weathered and dusted, fuse is together, HGW seatbelts are done, canopies are masked (not pictured), and I've gotten the landing gear together. I've just started dabbling in the cowlings and I'm pretty sure I see now why they're the widely regarded as weak spot of this kit. The directions essentially show you just putting them around the engine and being good to go... but there's no way to locate them that way, so I'm going to have to cobble them together very very slowly and carefully to ensure they fit correctly. If I come up with a good way, I'll be sure to share for posterity's sake.  Anyway, here are a few in progress pics from today: This is after the cockpit had been weathered and shaded w/oils and the seatbelts completed. When I bought the HGW seatbelts, I had no idea that building them would entail you actually building little seatbelts. They're pretty awesome. I got a little heavy with the wash on the pilot's belts, so there's that.  Side panels  IP w/reflector glass. This makes the whole thing look glossy, but it's not. I did drop some future in the gauges just to give them some gloss effect.  Seatbelts! Pedal straps are tamiya tape painted brown.     Fuse closed up. These two shots show the pigment dusting I used to put some dust inside the beast. It is in Africa after all. I'm going to model it with the pilot's canopy open and the gunner's canopy closed, so a lot of this should still be pretty visible once it's all said and done.   I'm going to let the fuselage joins harden for a day, then go at cleaning them. I may have to rescribe a few things, but overall the fit has been great. I've decided to just close the cowls and abandon my idea of leaving one open.   That's all for today. Hopefully I'll have another update or two this week as I plug through the cowls and clean up join lines. Thanks for following along. mywifehatesmodels, mozart, LSP_Kevin and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Cockpit details sure look nice. Â Gaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kais Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Gewehr 43, That is some really nice work you've done.If you're are bothered the 20mm drums may have had a white band around them if the rounds loaded in them were MG-FF/M.The M suffix denotes mine shells( More explosive charge). The 110 used both but I'm not sure of sub type versus dateline for the110E.FYI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckD Posted October 23, 2017 Author Share Posted October 23, 2017 Good to know. Too late for this build, but I'll keep it in mind for the next 110 I tackle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Cross Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Looking good. How did you get the dials on the instruments to look like they're glass-covered? Some drops of CA glue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckD Posted October 23, 2017 Author Share Posted October 23, 2017 Straight future, Bill. After flat coating with Liquitex matte varnish, I got a little straight future on a brush and dropped it into the dial faces. Since the dials were so well-molded, they contained the future like little basins. That allowed for a nice clear gloss/glassy finish for the instruments. Bill Cross and G-Man 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Straight future, Bill. After flat coating with Liquitex matte varnish, I got a little straight future on a brush and dropped it into the dial faces. Since the dials were so well-molded, they contained the future like little basins. That allowed for a nice clear gloss/glassy finish for the instruments. Nice tip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-Man Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Straight future, Bill. After flat coating with Liquitex matte varnish, I got a little straight future on a brush and dropped it into the dial faces. Since the dials were so well-molded, they contained the future like little basins. That allowed for a nice clear gloss/glassy finish for the instruments. I'm gonna try this on my next project. I usually use Testors clear parts glue on the gauge openings, but there are often bubbles and can make the panel sandwich too thick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kagemusha Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Mighty fine work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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