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Tamiya F-15C Kicked Up A Notch- Dec 1/17: DONE!


chuck540z3

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A,azing job as usual!

 

Do you have another picture of the exhausts but from another angle? It might be my monitor but I see thos blue petals a lot like the camo color! I know they look different but I'd like to see! this is so inspirational!! Thanks

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Thanks again.

 

 



A,azing job as usual!

 

Do you have another picture of the exhausts but from another angle? It might be my monitor but I see thos blue petals a lot like the camo color! I know they look different but I'd like to see! this is so inspirational!! Thanks

 

 

Sure, although I've shown these before.  Note that some petals are clearly blue, while others (older?) are not...

 

 

WmFsma.jpg

 

HNsxvv.jpg

 

My interpretation of the above, taken several months ago....

 

7qIeVc.jpg

 

B5kntz.jpg

 

 

I hope that helps,

 

Cheers Chuck

 

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Chuck, wonderful job of painting, thanks for the tutorial. Small question, will you darken the indented rivets on the bare metal area? What will you use to do this?

Sincerely

Anthony

 

 

In a word, no.  From some angles they look quite dark already as shown above and below....

 

e07w4e.jpg

 

From the other side, you can see that you are seeing shadows rather than a dark wash.  I want to keep it that way....

 

kzpIBi.jpg

 

 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

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Thanks again.

 

 

 

 

Sure, although I've shown these before.  Note that some petals are clearly blue, while others (older?) are not...

 

 

WmFsma.jpg

 

HNsxvv.jpg

 

My interpretation of the above, taken several months ago....

 

7qIeVc.jpg

 

B5kntz.jpg

 

 

I hope that helps,

 

Cheers Chuck

I was talking about yours Chuck! maybe seen from other angle they look a bit lighter as I know they are! It was just to have the actual pic and not the mental image! thanks!

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I was talking about yours Chuck! maybe seen from other angle they look a bit lighter as I know they are! It was just to have the actual pic and not the mental image! thanks!

 

 

OK then Sir, one more- again as shown earlier.  The blue might be a little too intense, but heck, I just love it that way....

 

N88Asr.jpg

 

 

Cheers,

Chuck

Edited by chuck540z3
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Sorry Chuck my little English makes me hard to understand at times! thanks for taking the time! then again, I'd love to see a picture of your exhausts on your model, but from another angle! don't worry It can wait! you take so many time from your modelling to post all this that I will gladly wait until the next pic will be posted!! keep doing what you are doing cause we are having a good time watching at it!!!

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Chuck,

  Welcome back after basically the summer off. The NMF exhaust is absolutely amazing. How you layered the Alcad colors, then gently rubbed through them at random spots has created one of the most realistic finishes I've ever seen. As I've said numerous times, that a truly gifted modeler can make the most difficult tasks look easy enough for the average modeler to do. Yet the reality of it is that we couldn't duplicate what you've done in any manner, shape, or form no matter how hard we try.

 

 And as usual, your step by step build and tutorials make following your builds extremely interesting, entertaining, and educational all at the same time. 

 

Joel

Edited by Joel_W
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Yet the reality of it is that we couldn't duplicate what you've done in any manner, shape, or form no matter how hard we try.

 

Joel

 

 

Thanks for the very kind words Joel, but you can easily create the same.  Here's the basic procedure for you or anyone else who wants to give it a try.  While I have never seen anyone use this method before, it seemed natural enough to me, because Testors makes "Rubbing Metalizers" which you lightly rub after the lacquer has dried to remove surface dust.  In my method below, I have gone quite a bit deeper.

 

 

1.  The surface should be super smooth plastic without any other paint to clog detail or cause blemishes.  I sand the plastic with Tamiya #1000 grit sandpaper followed by a brief buff with #2000.  Remove any dust with a cloth, followed by compressed air.  You want NOTHING on the plastic to cause grief later.

 

2.  Using Tamiya Gloss Black Lacquer, decanted from a spray bomb and thinned with about 1/3 Tamiya lacquer thinner (yellow cap), spray a thin wet coat which will be the primer for Alclad.  Using low air pressure and getting real close to the plastic (1" - 1 1/2'), get the plastic wet enough to lay flat then move on, so that you don't create drips.  You are always better to move on too soon than create a pool of paint, because the lacquer dries so quickly you can re-paint thin areas within 5 minutes.  If your airbrush won't let you get close without making a mess, thin the paint even more.  The closer your airbrush is to the surface, the less chance you will have "dust balls" traveling to other parts of the plastic, creating a rough finish.

 

3.  Let the lacquer dry for 24 hours, but if you have small blemishes or crap on the paint (and you will!), these can be lightly sanded off with polishing cloths (#4000 and up) after only 1 hour of drying time.  Re-spray after paint repair.

 

4.  After the lacquer has dried, spray a mist coat of Alclad Stainless Steel, just enough to cover the primer.  Stainless Steel is one of the "High Shine" Alclad paints like Chrome and Polished Aluminum, which means that it has a base of alcohol rather than true lacquer, so masking and decaling are not recommended.  The paint looks terrific, but it doesn't "bite" into the primer as well as the lacquer based Alclad paints, so you want to keep it super thin.

 

5.  After and hour or so, spray another thin coat of Alclad Duraluminum.  This paint does adhere to the primer and bonded very well with the Stainless Steel because I kept it thin.  Again, spray a mist coat and continually move on, avoiding any pooling of paint that might craze the paint underneath.  Let this dry for another 24 hours.

 

6.  After a day of drying, spray another thin coat of Alclad Steel, but in a blotchy pattern that is not uniform.  Steel is really dark- almost gun metal- so you want to limit how much of this dark lacquer you use.  Let this dry for another 24 hours.

 

7.  Using Tamiya Coarse Polishing Compound on a soft rag or paper towel, rub the Alclad smooth but not in a uniform manner.  You want some areas that are rubbed harder than others, which cuts through the various layers of Alclad, revealing a complex metallic finish.  In some areas you might want to go really deep and partially expose some of the black primer.  Lightly done, this can give the finish a really effective metallic look, but too deep it will just look like a bad paint job.  If you do overdo it, no worries.  Just spray another thin coat of Stainless Steel, just enough to cover the darkness to your liking.

 

So that's about it.  The procedure takes a few days because of all the drying time, but you really don't want to rush it.  Alclad will craze if you spray other coats on it too soon and you can't "sand" soft paint with the polishing compound.  Right after you polish the paint, you can use masking tape on it with no worries of it lifting if you follow these steps.

 

Hope this helps,

Chuck

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