monthebiff Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 Andy yes i did indeed but i suppose now it might be a bit too late... or not. I was just thinking of this now considering i have to remove the Aviattic decal and just recoat with semi matt clear. The only problem i can foresee and can't really find a solution to is the patch on the middle of the wing. The patch is supposed to be the same 'color' as the tail covering in the wingnut wings box decals. I was planning on having the decal on the top wing differentiated by using a different undercoat of paint but since the wings are linen covered the patch would also be linen... What do you guys think. Should i change the tail decal for accuracy or just leave it the way it is? Actually i just took a closer look at the photos i have on my mac. The problem with removing the hex decal on the tail is that part of the diagonal white bands on the side are overlapping the hex decals. So that means i will have to damage those and repaint them. I don't know how much the effort of redoing the area is worth versus the outcome. What i will do is experiment on scrap decals left from the first sheet in order to find what sort of diluted ratio of paint i need in order to blend in the tail 'fabric' texture so i can cover the Aviattic hex decal and make it look more like painted on rather than linen... Will post the results in a couple of days along with some of the progress! K With those details in mind Karim I guess the logical thing to do is continue with the Aviattic hex and use various glaze coat;s to "hide " the linen effect and also differentiate between painted wood and linen? Regards. Andy karimb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 Karim, What a great update! I really like how your technique made the fuselage sides look slightly and naturally grimy. Other small things impress as well. I'm coming to the conclusion that resin Spandau's, while being very nice, just don't look as realistic a a nicely rolled PE jacket. Well done! Gaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bstarr3 Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 Wow fantastic work, Karim. I love the mottling on the fuselage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trak-Tor Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 Great update! It looks like an easy thing, which it is not... Juraj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 (edited) What do you guys think. Edited March 21, 2018 by mmaben karimb 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karimb Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 With those details in mind Karim I guess the logical thing to do is continue with the Aviattic hex and use various glaze coat;s to "hide " the linen effect and also differentiate between painted wood and linen? Regards. Andy Andy that's pretty much what i am thinking of doing ... still need to experiment on some spare decals i have remaining from the first sheet of naval hex. I did try the thinned paint ratio but it doesn't really look to my liking so i will go back to oil glazes instead. I doubt oil glazing and filtering will be able to hide the fabric texture but it will surely be able to dim the effect a bit more... experiments planned for the next couple of sessions... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karimb Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 Karim, What a great update! I really like how your technique made the fuselage sides look slightly and naturally grimy. Other small things impress as well. I'm coming to the conclusion that resin Spandau's, while being very nice, just don't look as realistic a a nicely rolled PE jacket. Well done! Gaz Gaz, thanks for your kind comments... I would agree with you regarding the rolled pe jackets looking better than the resin spandaus. In all honesty i found that depending on what situation the spandaus are placed on the kit (ie for example in a tight space on a fighter sandwiched between the wings) each option has a different added value. When in plain sight with light reflecting off the guns, a rolled pe jacket or even better, the master model brass jackets look really the part when burnished in fluid, but for tight spaces, the Gaspatch resin version would work just as well... Thanks for dropping by and leaving a word my friend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karimb Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 Wow fantastic work, Karim. I love the mottling on the fuselage Brian thanks for the comment my friend. It sure gets half of the weathering job done outright! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karimb Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 Great update! It looks like an easy thing, which it is not... Juraj Thanks Juraj for the kind words! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karimb Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karimb Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 Hey guys! ' second update in a week? he must have bumped his head' i hear you say...well yes but with no head bumping. After arriving back from Philadelphia in the early afternoon, i had the rest of the day to kill and the day after off. I promptly went to work on the W12 that evening. The build is at a stage where there are so many small subassemblies that need to be put together to sort of 'tick the boxes' off and this is what this update is going to be all about. It sure doesn't look like much but whatever has been done did take a full day and a bit... At the stage we are now i can start thinking about adding a bit of weathering to the fuselage and then seal everything in again and start working on the wings. I have finished the ancillaries for good with the weathering and all and have set them aside. The beaching dollies chassis got painted wood by starting with light wood color from MRP then getting the rust wash streaking treatment. Once dry i sealed everything in and airbrushed heavy chipping fluid by AK after which a topcoat of RLM gray from tamiya. That layer got chipped heavily. The assemblies got weathered with oils, the bottom was faded with abteilung engine oil and the whole parts were sealed then washed with dark brown and then sealed with MRP matt coat. The metallic rims of the wheels got a layer of salt and then oversprayed with a light gray. The new painted areas were then buffed with UVDR iron metallic pigments which at the end gave the rims a changing look depending on which side you look at them and under different light conditions. The variation goes from spot of light gray to spots of darker iron to spots of stainless polished steel. This is nice as it adds some variation and a nicely used look to the metallic areas. The wooden wheels themselves got a heavy coat of brown oil faded in order to vary the finish and then sealed and washed. The nailheads were picked with a lead pencil after the wheels were sealed with the MRP matt coat. The big tail support frame which had been already painted and woodgrained got a sealing coat of matt and then a pinwash around the detail and the nailheads picked out with the lead pencil. I then added ochre pigments to the bottom of the stilts and light dust pigments at the top where the horizontal bar is. Pigments were sealed with abteilung's pigment fixer. The front frame that sits under the float was also given the wood treatment using light wood from MRP and then coated with AK worn effects. For variety i have decided to paint the front frame with a different color, something brighter than the grays and greens so i went for MRP red for Russian jet chassis which is a red with a bit of a faded tint to it. I first lightly coated the part with MRP white then with the red. I can report that chipping with MRP paints was much harder than tamiya so i ended up using warmer water which worked better and augmented the chipping by hand painting chips using the base color and a very fine brush. The front frame got heavily weathered using AK engine grime, and oils from abteilung. I sealed everything in and gave the part a dark brown pinwash then resealed with matt from MRP. I also added a little '1407' using a lead pencil on the lower part of the framework. I heavily dabbed pigments light dust on the top of the trestle and ochre on the feet and locked everything with abteilung's pigment fixer. I am glad to have got this part of the build out of the way as i find i have the tendency to run out of energy by the time the whole 'aricraft' is built and weathered and tend to either overlook or just avoid building the additions that make a nice kit much nicer. In that vain i also took the chance to form, paint and weather what is supposed to be a mooring line that i will, or won't, place on one of the floats. For that i used some non fuzzy thread that i bought months ago from MWorkshop in Singapore during my layovers there. I initially formed the shape of the coiled mooring line by spot gluing it using CA until the shape was there, then i added more CA on the insides of the coils to fix the form. It did take a bit of work and some colorful language but it was a fun little experiment. I then painted the white thread in tamiya dark yellow and highlighted the rope ridges with burnt umber oils straight from the tube, and then added a dark gray wash by dabbing it on in random places. Everything was again sealed in MRP matt clear. Coming to the floats, i finally got around to painting the caps topside by using the new thinnerline circle cutter to do the paint masks and used Alclad pale burnt metal to give the metallics a dirty tint. I then gave the caps a brown wash. The front 'slippers' were rubbed with UVDR iron metallic pigments and then given a brown wash too. The metallic slippers do look better than the gray called for in the instructions. I also managed to finish the inner struts for the floats and installed them and built up the float and inner strut assembly. I initially painted wood on the strut fairings as i thought logically the struts themselves would be metal but the fairings on top i figured would likely be made out of wood, and i wanted to simulate some light wear around the areas the crew and ground staff would hold on or have their boots rub against while climbing and moving around the floats. Again, AK worn effects and then mottles of 3 different blacks then some chipping. The steps were painted in gray and then highlighted with a lead pencil, and the bottom horizontal struts were given the salt paste treatment. I will probably go back again and give the salt paste another go to increase the salt staining on those areas. I am also considering the addition of some light dust pigments on some areas of the floats but am still undecided. One thing i am not going to do is run a wash on the top of the floats. I think it would look too stark and might damage the salt staining on the sides of the top part... Rigging between the floats was very basic and i used Bob's buckles as always, for the rigging eyelets and brass tubes. EzLine is my rigging line of choice too... I also moved further on and glued the doors in their open position. no trouble there. i am now considering adding a cut piece of lead wire to simulate the hinges between the door and fuselage but i need to take a closer look at what that would entail in terms of texturing the wire to look like hinges. The spandau jacket was finally glued in place and when i took the photos i had forgotten to glue in the nose of the barrel on the gun. I have added it since. I also worked a bit on some bits and bobs to bring the subassemblies closer to completion. I noticed in the reference photos that the radiator of '1407' has some sort of pipe that runs out of it and is curved forward. The end of the pipe has some sort of secondary cap, or glob, which i simulated by adding some black fly fishing wire and putting a drop of krystal klear at the tip. The blob will be painted when i install the radiator. Which is after i am sure i will not need to place the fuselage inverted to work on for prolonged times. Probably will install the radiator after i finish weathering the tail bottom section. I also dry fitted the fuselage on the floats for some of the photos i took and it sure looks sweet to me. The more subassemblies i add the bigger this airplane is getting and i love it!! Oh yes i forgot to mention this update is coming straight out of Geneva Switzerland! I should be flying back tonight and have tomorrow off and the day after. I will probably start working on the lower wings if i manage to finish the fuselage weathering! Till then guys stay safe and keep modeling ! Karim LSP_Kevin and Jan_G 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karimb Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 (edited) Edited March 21, 2018 by karimb Trak-Tor, Lenny320, LSP_Kevin and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karimb Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 Lenny320, Trak-Tor, Shawn M and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karimb Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 Jim Barry, Trak-Tor, tucohoward and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lothar Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 There's no way your skills can be topped - your WIP posts consistently leave me green with envy (but I love them ) Lothar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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