Fisher 1/32 Ryan STM-2

[LSP_Kevin]

I promised Paul that I'd build his Ryan STM kit in RAAF colours, but I've had my thunder stolen somewhat by Brent, who's already doing it! His is a great built, but I'll soldier on undeterred. I'll be building this in tandem with the HK Do 335 test shot, so they'll both the jostling for time and bench space. All I've done so far is give all the parts a scrub with an old toothbrush in warm, soapy water:

 

 

Yes, they're all back in the box! I need to study the instructions thoroughly before getting too far ahead of myself. In the meantime, if you're not familiar with this kit, you can check out my review for more info.

 

With luck, I'll be back soon with an update.

 

Kev

[Out2gtcha]

I promised Paul that I'd build his Ryan STM kit in RAAF colours, but I've had my thunder stolen somewhat by Brent, who's already doing it!

 

 

How bout the camo/yellow RAAF STM instead of the all yellow one, just for something different?

[LSP_Kevin]

How bout the camo/yellow RAAF STM instead of the all yellow one, just for something different?

 

I thought about it Brian, but to be honest I don't really like that scheme all that much. My personal preference is for the NMF one, but after after the Meteor, Texan and RoboCop builds, I'll be glad to give silver paint a miss for a while!

 

Kev

[Simmo.b]

Looking forward to seeing your take on this Kev.

Cheers

Brent

[shepard]

following here Kev!

 

[LSP_Kevin]

Thanks for checking in fellas. I've actually made some good progress with this one now, though I've run out of time to take photos and post an update. The cockpit sidewalls are painted, as are the seats and most of the other cockpit components. Next I'll be working on the instrument panels, along with trying to obtain a convincing wood effect on the cockpit floor without decals (must get me some of those!).

 

I'll snap some photos and post them tomorrow.

 

Kev

[LSP_Kevin]

OK, time for an update then! I started by cleaning up the seats, which have a nasty resin seam down their backs. The right one in the photo below is 'before', and the left one 'after':

 

 

You can also see that I managed to uncover a couple of small pin holes, which were duly filled with CA gel and sanded back. I don't think it matters all that much though, as preliminary test-fitting suggests that little will be seen of the rear of the seats. Here they are after painting and weathering:

 

 

Cockpit sidewalls with the detail parts added:

 

 

I deliberately over-highlighted the black parts to give them some hope of standing out once the fuselage is closed up. I initially thought there was a lot more detail to add than that, but it turns out that the kit supplies two of everything with regard to the cockpit detail parts. A nice touch! Clearly there's scope here for a lot more detail should you be so inclined. I'm happy to stay with what you get in the box at this point.

 

Here's my feeble attempt at creating a convincing wood effect for the cockpit floor:

 

 

I was going for a plywood effect, so I'm hoping it'll look more convincing once it's installed in the cockpit. Since I used the 'dragged oils' method for this, I'm gonna have to leave it dry for at least 24 hours before attempting to progress. (For the record, it's Raw Sienna dragged over a gloss-coated Tamiya Deck Tan base, using a combination of a square brush and some packing sponge.) Any tips on improving it will be gratefully accepted!

 

Finally, here's the control columns and linkages (a 'torque tube' according to the instructions):

 

 

This will fit into the longitudinal slot in the cockpit floor. I'd love to have the time to really go to town on the cockpit in this kit, but a lack of both time and references makes it impractical. Still, I think once everything's assembled and in position, it will look pretty good.

 

More soon!

 

Kev

[ericg]

Good progress Kev, you will certainly give Brent a run for his money on this one. The wood floor needs a bit more grain though.

 

Eric

[Out2gtcha]

Looks good so far K1  

[Whitey]

I'm not convinced about using oils to simulate wood-grain. The oils take too long to dry properly.

 

All of the wood-grain on the Roland is done with Tamiya acrylics. I started my Roland's interior with an overall coat of Yellow, then a "blotching overspray" of thin Desert Yellow (light tan) and when they were dry brushed Brown over the top to give the final look of a "grain". All done over a day's modelling. The exterior was sealed with Clear Yellow and it completes the effect very well. I'm sure other can do a much better job but this method looks good and is relatively quick to do.

 

My attempts at practicing wood-grain on scrap pieces with oil was frustrating because it took days to dry and even then was almost "unhandleable" until sealed. Then more waiting for that to dry.

 

I haven't worked out how I am going to do the propeller yet. Random grain is not the right look.

 

Your STM should look really cool mate. Looking forward to watching the rest of your build.

[Out2gtcha]

I'm not convinced about using oils to simulate wood-grain. The oils take too long to dry properly.

 

All of the wood-grain on the Roland is done with Tamiya acrylics. I started my Roland's interior with an overall coat of Yellow, then a "blotching overspray" of thin Desert Yellow (light tan) and when they were dry brushed Brown over the top to give the final look of a "grain". All done over a day's modelling. The exterior was sealed with Clear Yellow and it completes the effect very well. I'm sure other can do a much better job but this method looks good and is relatively quick to do.

 

My attempts at practicing wood-grain on scrap pieces with oil was frustrating because it took days to dry and even then was almost "unhandleable" until sealed. Then more waiting for that to dry.

 

I haven't worked out how I am going to do the propeller yet. Random grain is not the right look.

 

Your STM should look really cool mate. Looking forward to watching the rest of your build.

 

 

I felt the same way when I first started Whitey.

 

I found a VERY nice solution, as I really liked  the look of Tamiya acrylic Desert Yellow with varied stained oils streaked for the grain itself, but like you, HATED the unacceptable drying times. 

If you can, or if you have a "craft" type hobby store (not sure what they are called in NZ, but here in the states we have "Hobby Lobbys") go there and pick up some "Japan Dryer" Its just a strange smelling (but not that hot) amber colored liquid you can mix up with the oils to thin them a bit, that takes the drying time from days/weeks to a matter of hrs/overnight.

 

WELL worth your time to pick some up.......................Ive used it on every one of my builds that I used the acrylic over oil for wood grain, and each time I was able to clear over the props the next or day after next.

I used it on my Planet Models XF5U-1 to great effect, and used Japan Dryer with NO thinner on the oils, and the props were completely dry the very next day.

I also used it on my WnW DH-2, in combination with oil thinner and it was dry the day after that with no issues as well.

[LSP_Kevin]

Thanks for your tips and advice fellas. Ironically I think the wood grain effect looks better in the photo than it does in person! I think part of the issue is the colours I've chosen, and I suspect I needed to use a darker base coat. Anyway, I think once the seats go in you won't be able to see all that much of it in the cockpit, so I'll chalk it up to experience and probably use decals next time!

 

Kev

[LSP_Kevin]

I've just checked how the oil paint is drying, and, well, it's basically not! I took the opportunity to refine the grain pattern with a flat brush, and to the naked eye at least, it looks a little better. I certainly won't be using this technique again without using some method to accelerate the drying time! Looks like I'll have to set the cockpit floor aside for several days to dry, which will effectively stall this build. Perhaps I'll be getting back to the Do 335 after all...

 

Kev

[ericg]

Wood grain with oils is most effective provided that some prior preparation as to the sequence of build is thought about. A few weeks would be suitable for any oiled surface to dry completely. For that purpose, all wood surfaces should be completed first and then set aside whilst the rest of the build or even a different kit is worked on.

 

Eric

[OldTroll]

A coat of Tamiya's yellow or orange "clear" coat might improve the wood-like appearance.  I have used this method on Albatros D.!, II, and III fuselages and it replicates a varnished plywood quite nicely.