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Craig361

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About Craig361

  • Birthday 03/22/1958

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    Eagle River AK

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  1. The dorsal fin that was installed in the field (depots/ base engineering sections) for the B/C's were P/N 104-25001 (Tech Order 01-60JD-43), these were also fitted to the last C models on the production line (per production print). D's (and K's) Inglewood and Dallas production received P/N 109-25001 dorsal fin (the 'straight dorsal fin). The 104-25001 dorsal fin is the one with the curve in it. In discussions with others who have researched this as to the curvature this was not intended but an initial manufacturing occurrence as the print for the part does not show the curvature or include any design data allowance for it. Someone finally figured out how to remove the curvature without damaging the piece, the dorsal fin has compound shapes and aluminum can be tricky even when using 'O' (soft) material. The dorsal fins (along with a reverse rudder boost tab) were installed to prevent overloading of the horizontal surfaces when the aircraft assumed high angles of yaw during certain maneuvers.
  2. It is the exact same as the original release save the removal of the dorsal fin and decal change. I compared sprues side by side from each kit for a part comparison and nothing else was changed. It still has the same too narrow cockpit floor. Craig
  3. Sprue Bros in the States has them if they have not sold out in the past couple of days. That is where I purchased mine. (uncompensated endorsement btw) Craig
  4. In the event anyone was curious without buying the D-5 release of Dragons P-51D. With the exception of the removal of the dorsal fin and change of decals to reflect that, it is the exact same kit otherwise. Nothing else was changed. Craig
  5. Excellant work Geoff. The angle of the MLG from perpendicular is 11° forward Craig P51SIG Admin P51SIG?
  6. If you are replicating Dzus fasteners on WW2 USAAF aircraft then what you want is what basically represents a slotted screwhead, then with a slightly larger circle around it to represent the aircraft washer used with it to protect the aluminum panel.
  7. This is one of those "you pays your money and takes your chances" things in buying white metal landing gear. The area where it will be the weakest is the axle adapter area where it is the thinnest and most likely to be bent or broken. Too much rigidity and it will snap if mishandled, to malleable and it will sag over time. Castings of any kind are always inherently weaker than something made from solid stock. As texas mentioned, best way around it is to make your own from tubing and flat stock.
  8. Radub, my comment about the computer and internet connection was not aimed at you or anyone else. It was basically a reflection on why I seldom if at all post here anymore. Someone who is no longer on the LSP Staff got a little agitated for some reason about the amount of responses I was giving in answer to questions about P-51's and the resulting kudo's I was getting for sharing the information. I've never claimed to be an expert on the Mustang, just someone who has a genuine interest in it. This person posted that (best I recall) anyone could be an expert by getting on the internet and finding the info in 5 minutes. Well, I haven't spent all the time and money buying and studying books, manuals and the real thing for that nonsense so that's why I haven't posted anything in a while. I've never minded sharing what I've learned about the Mustang, just been glad to help out. My apology for all misunderstood intent. Craig
  9. Was bound and determined not to get into this topic as at one time I was told here that anyone with a computer and an internet connection could be an expert on something. But, seeing this fire drill unfold as it has finally drew me out, so........... #1 thing with the Dragon prop is that it is 7 scale inches to large in dia. It measures out (at least mine did) to 11'-9", should be 11'-2". In 1:1 that's nearly 1/4" or .250 #2 Simply no airfoil shape to the blades. The blade and cuff are the same thickness from leading edge to trailing edge. The bottom of the cuff also needs to be recontoured to the correct shape. #3 The blades look to have been molded with the face and back facing the wrong direction, 180 ° off if you will. Like they were made for ccw rotation instead of cw (as viewed from the cockpit) as they should be. #4. The blade twists doesn't look correct but, looking for a good clear end view of the real thing to compare with to be sure. Later
  10. Something I use a lot are a couple of different style blades in my exacto handle. I first use a sanding drum in my dremel tool to remove the unwanted kit details, then I use either a wide flat blade or it the section is curved, a curved blade to scrape away the material. I do a little sanding with 320 grit along the way as I scape with the blades. A little slow perhaps but doesn't really take too long to do. I can control the thickness as I go and it doesn't heat the plastic up, works pretty good for me.
  11. Photo recon P-51 was the F-6 (B,C, D< etc). Believe the F-5 was the P-38 variant
  12. Would rather have seen Hasegawa or even Dragon do it, then maybe the prices would have been more reasonable. Still hoping Has will follow up the Bubbletop with a razorback P-47. A C-note & + is too much, for that I'd rather send it to Rutman for another one of his resin B's and know I'm getting one without shape issues and a correct wheelbay & more. Which reminds me I need to unpack that thing and restart it. Craig361 P51SIG Admin P51SIG?
  13. In his book "An Ace of the Eighth", Norman "Bud" Fortier made a statement about the P-47 being called the 'jug' because of its resemblance to a milk jug. I would have to reread the book to find his exact wording but he did use 'milk jug' in it.
  14. tourist is correct about the chromate zinc, the baby poop yellow is it's natural 'color'. Everything else is a dirivetive of adding something to it to get another 'color'. Such as adding lamp black to chromate zinc to get green chromate zinc etc.
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