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Playing around with new techniques...


LSP_Ray

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I have been reading Michael Rinaldi's TankArt books and decided to try out a few of his techniques with oils and pigments as I would like to achieve a more realistic weathered look on a 38t I have been working on for longer than I would like to admit. It so happens I have an old finished Italeri 38t I built some 35 years ago(!).

Anyway, I thought I would share a couple of comparison photos:

post-39-0-95324100-1505627885_thumb.jpg

post-39-0-38173400-1505627895_thumb.jpg

post-39-0-11151700-1505627909_thumb.jpg

Some of the pigment treatment is a little ham-handed, could do some more for dust enhancement, and exhaust turned out with too much red, but I am pretty happy with the end result and look forward on trying this on a fresh model.

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Thanks for the comments, guys!

I should mention, the first one is simply drybrushed with a dust color. For 1982, I think it predates Verlinden - or at least before he became well known.

Rinaldi's technique I would not call Spanish school. Spanish school, as I understand it, deals more with stark outlining of details to emphasize them, warm colors, and a lot of chipping. Rinaldi's technique is more about looking at a model in smaller, specific areas at a time instead of the entire vehicle in one method and keeping in mind how the vehicle was used, and wear/staining from crew or maintenance weathering as well as the use of multiple colors of pigments to more realistically show dirt effects. He uses chipping to a minimum, except for field applied camo or whitewash. By layering these effects, he comes up with a much more realistic effect as opposed to the more artistic effects used by the Spanish School or the increasingly common light-modulation style that can start out looking like a patchwork of colors. I have seen all of these technique done spectacularly, but so far Rinaldi's - and Adam Wilder's - as some of the most realistic looking.

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Adam Wilder sample: 

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Wilder does more of the color modulation than Rinaldi does. He will fade different parts of the model to give interest. Rinaldi will do some modulation, especially with single-color vehicles, but does it looking at the model as a whole, i.e. a single light source and fade from top down, then use oils to give variation. 

My 38t is pretty crude in comparison, but I am just experimenting at this point.   

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I actually like both sets of images, Ray! I think this is a case where neither is actually better than the other, and it's simply down to personal taste.

 

Kev

Always true, Kev! If you remember the old Tony Greenland models, he relied heavily on drybrushing. It wasn't as realistic, but they were beautiful models! He has tried some of the newer techniques, but I still like his old stuff.

panzermodb.jpg

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Always true, Kev! If you remember the old Tony Greenland models, he relied heavily on drybrushing. It wasn't as realistic, but they were beautiful models! He has tried some of the newer techniques, but I still like his old stuff.

panzermodb.jpg

 

I think I still have the old Tony Greenland hardbound book, Ray.

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When I have too much red as you think you have on the exhaust, I thin down some black with water then add it  with a brush where needed as a wash over the top of it..  Your update is much better as it has more tonal contrast, and looks more natural

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