Radub Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 The Revi 12 mount was always fixed i.e. never intended to fold to the right. The initial Revi 16 gun sight mount was also fixed but a tubular mount similar to that used on the Me 262 was introduced later. This allowed the Revi 16 gun sight to be rotated to the right and stowed away from the line of sight. Radu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted September 30, 2013 Author Share Posted September 30, 2013 Thanks Radu. That's what I meant. However, it seems my words were not crystal clear! If you don't mind, I'll take your wording! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kagemusha Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 (edited) The AlleyCat set is £15 http://www.a2zeemodels.co.uk/messerschmitt-bf-109-upgrade-set-for-revell-kit-6258-p.asp Edited October 4, 2013 by Kagemusha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 As Radu implicitly wrote it: look at most 109 drawings with cautiousness... Personally, I used to rely on Seay and Beaman drawings for years. They are not always 100% perfect but surely better than the other ones. To my eyes, Radu ones are probably the best ones currently available. If you need one reason to buy the Bret Green's book, take this one! Yup, I based my impression on the picture of the original plane, the whole top front section seems to be on a diet. Needles to say that Radu's drawings are on the way, so ones they arrive I will post some pictures in this thread ( if that's OK with you). Thanks M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nigelr32 Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 I just bought this kit and am asking myself a question.. "How do Revell do it"? All this for £22.99!! D.B. Andrus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunnar J Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Hi guys I have followed this thread with interest and have observed a thing that Martin also has pointed out. I have a few of the Revell's new 109 as well as Hasegawa and the Trumpeter kit. I also have ADH's new book on building the Revell 109 G6 and I think Radus' drawings are top notch and I believe they are both reliable and the best today. I hope we will get them in bigger format and higher resolution one day though. :-) I would like to continue where Martin mentioned that the spacing between the MG131's on the Revell kit look to narrow, hawing checked it to Radu's drawing they are by no less than about 2.0mm!! that's huge. Most dicussions on the the net seams to deal with legnth and "profile" issues but not so much when it comes to "width's"...my firts impression on the Revell nose section was the same as Martins...it looked like it's on "diet", but having checked tha cowling with to Radu's drawing it's dead on BUT here's the thing. The distance between the gun trougs are to narrow and can that make the illusion that the nose section itself looks a bit narrow? As Radu's pointed out Hasegawa is correct here but instead the cowling profile itself is to wide and wrong when viewed from front or back on the Hasegawa kit. The Revell cowling width is correct according to Radu's drawing with if the guns should be wider apart by 2.0mm the profile need to be changed...this will not be an easy task if one wants to correct it, adopting a Hasegawa cowling might work but will not give the correct section profile. I sure hope Revell will adress this spacing of the MG's to their later releases. :-) Just a observation and thanks to Martin for observing this...though as mentioned it will not be easy to correct. Any comments or other observations on this? :-) Regards/ Gunnar Artful69 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 Thanks for this remark! The Hasegawa is 10.2 mm whereas the Revell has indeed a 8.2 mm width in this area. The 1/48th scale plans show a 6.7 mm width. This means a 10.5 distance. So, the Japanese kit is compliant with Radu's measurements considering an acceptable measurement security margin. Unfortunately, finding a good picture allowing precise measurement is nearly impossible. However, in spite of the error danger linked to the perspective and depth, looking at pictures of the nose taken from a position in front and over the nose (such as the one on the Fernandez-Sommerau book cover) indicates that there is indeed a problem. This is really a nasty issue as looking at the part, I don't think it is possible to solve this easily. Moreover, do not consider using the part from the Japanese kit on the German one. This won't be possible as the cross-sections of both kits are noticeably different. Indeed, you've again a more or less 2mm difference! Well, I think we'll have to conclude there is still room for a better 109! Tamiya will be happy ;-) In the meanwhile, we've the choice between some good even if not excellent options... Artful69 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Hello again guys!, I just wanted to add that I am building two109's . One with the original gun cover , converted to proper dimensions and second with Hasegawa's cowling. Both cases are doable. I will keep you posted. Cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.B. Andrus Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Hello again guys!, I just wanted to add that I am building two109's . One with the original gun cover , converted to proper dimensions and second with Hasegawa's cowling. Both cases are doable. I will keep you posted. Cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Hello again guys!, I just wanted to add that I am building two109's . One with the original gun cover , converted to proper dimensions and second with Hasegawa's cowling. Both cases are doable. I will keep you posted. Cheers Martin Saying I'm curious would be an understatement! Let me know which solution you used as I'd update the list accordingly. Cheers Thierry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artful69 Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 ... The Hasegawa is 10.2 mm whereas the Revell has indeed a 8.2 mm width in this area. The 1/48th scale plans show a 6.7 mm width. This means a 10.5 distance. So, the Japanese kit is compliant with Radu's measurements considering an acceptable measurement security margin ... ... This is really a nasty issue as looking at the part, I don't think it is possible to solve this easily. Moreover, do not consider using the part from the Japanese kit on the German one. This won't be possible as the cross-sections of both kits are noticeably different. Indeed, you've again a more or less 2mm difference! ... This is interesting ... Of all the issues that have been pointed out between the various kits ... This issue (the cowl) on the Revell (and on the Trumpeter) kits stands out the most to me!! (as well as the Trumpeter rudder) ... I wonder why Alley Cat did not include this most obvious correction in their workings? ... For me it stands out just as much, if not more, than the buele issue - and certainly more than the air intake or spinner! ... looking down onto the top of the models (as most people will in a display situation) and comparing, the difference is alarmingly obvious - as with the Trumpeter rudder when the different kits are viewed from the side. Rog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 True! We often forgot that we use to look at kits from the top whereas it is the opposite for the full scale planes! This is precisely why I'm always trying to keep this in mind when I'm choosing a color scheme! I guess Alleycat did not include it because they did not saw it! Moreover, I did not check many forums but I don't think this aspect was discussed before Martin's remark. I saw that ARC was mentioned in another thread but my antivirus does not want me going there anymore! Last, as I wrote previously, I'm really curious regarding the correction methods used by Martin but I think that the other parts corrected or simplified by Alley Cat were easier to modify. BTW, the width between the corrected gun throughs on the Trumpy kit is 9.5mm. So, there is also a discrepancy here but it is less noticeable and if you open one or both sides of the cowl, this won't be noticeable anymore. Moreover, correcting this is finally not so difficult. I think the main problem is probably obtaining two identical gun troughs...! Artful69 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artful69 Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 (edited) Yes Thierry ... I think Martin should actually start a detailed WIP on this component or at least complete it in review format ... I am really very interested to see how he does it!! My scratch building skills are quite limited ... honing out the supercharger intake or drilling out the vents for me is fairly straight forward - with the right equipment, as is adding some putty or a plastic 'tab' or two to hold a misalligned part in place ... but this is something VERY different!! ... Martin we are joining your class! So ... in summary ... * Revell 109G - the overall shape/dimensions of the cowl are actually correct (according to Radu's drawings anyway), yes? ... but the gun troughs are too close together! * The Trumpeters gun troughs are too short in length (and too shallow in depth?) ... and of course too close together (but not alarmingly so)? Does that sound about right to you Thierry? Rog Edited October 8, 2013 by Artful69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Yeap! This is a good summary! I'd not bother about the Trumpy troughs depth. This is linked to the length problem. Indeed, correcting them with files immediately modifies this. So, this is somewhat a moot point. I shall nonetheless clarify one point in my prior post: when I wrote "correcting this is finally not so difficult", I referred to the gun troughs length problem, not the width error between them! Thierry Artful69 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artful69 Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 I'd not bother about the Trumpy troughs depth. This is linked to the length problem. Indeed, correcting them with files immediately modifies this. I shall nonetheless clarify one point in my prior post: when I wrote "correcting this is finally not so difficult", I referred to the gun troughs length problem, not the width error between them! Thierry Yes ... I understood what you were driving at ... I'd figured on doing just that!! ... Using a small round file (and a bit of care) should fix this easily! ... The width is out only marginally out on this one ... and may actually be partly corrected with the filing solution!! - by leaning the weight on the file toward the outside of the cowl on both troughs should "push" them further apart ... then it is only a matter of gun barrell alignment But we digress - this is the Revell thread!! Please see if you can coax Martin to document (in pictures) his "Revell Cowl Correction" ?! Rog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now